Stumped to clunk/snap/click whatever it may be called. I have tried this per orourke:

Just try this and report results, take the wheel off, compress the suspension from under the lower arm. Important !

Then try to move the entire brake assembly, from 11 O Clock to 1 O Clock, watch the upper arm, if the upper arm does a little see sawing motion, you will know where that clunking noise is coming from when you step on the brake, it's the long upper bolt pitching inside the sleeve. The bolt is making the noise. When you pull the bolt you will see how "shiny" it is, that bolt is hardened steel, the crossmember tube is softer, mild steel, egged out. I'm willing to bet five bucks.

Every time I check I can not get any movement in that area. I can only get the steering to move a tiny bit. I checked the rack bolts the other day and snugged them down. I tighten a loose brace bolt. Last month I found all the rear cradle bolts not tightened and the passenger side upper crossmember bolt needed to be tightened to spec. I am confused and perplexed to the point I feel like selling it. I am not sure about driving to far from Grand Rapids in case something breaks, the tow bill wont be high. The noise seems to be coming from the drivers side over by the accelerator and yet I can feel in the brake pedal. Yet only twice from the left. It does not do it every time. Yesterday it was doing it some. Then this morning not at all. Go figure?

Any Ideas?

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 11-06-2013).]

I would check your inner and outer tie rods.

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ARCHIES JUNK IS FASTER THAN SHAUNNA'S JUNK
12.3 is faster than a 13.2

quote Originally posted by FIEROPHREK: I would check your inner and outer tie rods.

Ok, but they are new. They were installed when the used rack was installed. And I think the noise was there before the rack was installed. Not sure dont quite remember.

1) Shock mounts?
2) Sway Bar mounting bolts?
3) Is the engine warm when you hear it or is it still warming up? The coolant lines run down each side of the body under the doors. These tubes (like all metal) expand when heated. There are plastic/rubber holders that keep these in place. The noise may be related to movement caused by this expansion. There is also a heater hose that connects to the coolant system near the passenger side cradle pivot (behind the passenger seat). That heater hose travels alongside the fuel tank up to the heater core - and it to will expand when heated also.

HTH, Jimmy

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1987 coupe; Blue; 2.5L; 5-spd
1987 Firebird Formula; Blue; 5L; 5-spd

quote Originally posted by Macarchie: 1) Shock mounts? 2) Sway Bar mounting bolts? 3) Is the engine warm when you hear it or is it still warming up? The coolant lines run down each side of the body under the doors. These tubes (like all metal) expand when heated. There are plastic/rubber holders that keep these in place. The noise may be related to movement caused by this expansion. There is also a heater hose that connects to the coolant system near the passenger side cradle pivot (behind the passenger seat). That heater hose travels alongside the fuel tank up to the heater core - and it to will expand when heated also. HTH, Jimmy

Shock mounting bolts, hmm. I removed the lower shock bolt when I removed the lower control arm to have the ball joint pressed out. I tightened that bolt but I didn't check the upper. This is on the drivers side and that is where I hear it the most. I hear it hot or cold. I had to remove the sway bar bolts on both sides when I installed the rack. I tightened them to spec.

Thanks for the info. I'll check it out.

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 11-06-2013).]

Installed reman caliper on the drivers side front yesterday and that took care of a lot. I tried to do a reman on the passenger side and found NAPA gave me a bad unit so the old caliper is back on. I'll drive it tomorrow and see if the suspension noise is gone.