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parking brake cable disconnect? by Macarchie
Started on: 11-04-2013 10:50 PM
Replies: 5 (163 views)
Last post by: 84fiero123 on 11-06-2013 12:57 PM
Macarchie
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Report this Post11-04-2013 10:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MacarchieClick Here to Email MacarchieSend a Private Message to MacarchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
People,
I would like to replace the exhaust on the '87. There is a slip joint type mechanism behind the cradle to release the cable to get it out of the way when needed. Over the years, the metal has fused together. Any ideas on how to get them separated?

thanks, Jimmy

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1987 coupe; Blue; 2.5L; 5-spd
1987 Firebird Formula; Blue; 5L; 5-spd

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Report this Post11-04-2013 11:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cmechmannClick Here to Email cmechmannSend a Private Message to cmechmannEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That disconnect was used by quite a few GM cars. They are not that hard to find if you need one. The disconnect not the adjuster. The one to the right of the adjuster? The adjuster nuts also sieze. Those are part of the cable. First try clipping vise grips about an 1/8 outside the disconnect on each cable(not with so much force as to mash them) then with a small hammer, tap them in towards the disconnect to loosen the rust. Spray some penetrant on each end, then pull them back out. Should be able to start working them around.
If all else fails, cut the disconnect in half then open it up to get the cables out. Clamp vise grip on the end where the cable barrel is to hold it and open with large flat screwdriver.
If you are talking about the adjuster part seizing, It is just better getting another cable and nut.

[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 11-04-2013).]

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theogre
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Report this Post11-04-2013 11:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dorman caries the parts. search keyword: brake cable connector
Get thru most parts stores etc.

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(Jurassic Park)


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Macarchie
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Report this Post11-05-2013 07:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MacarchieClick Here to Email MacarchieSend a Private Message to MacarchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks for the input guys... The adjuster works fine, I loosened it up back when I replaced the rear calipers. The disconnect is the problem. I'll try the vice grip approach. One of the guys at work suggested throwing a little heat on it to try and loosen it up also. I have a spare cable on the donor car (I will ensure that it is usable before I cut the disconnect or the cable.) It looks like it will be a few weeks before I get started because a friend has asked me to put his car on the lift and check something out for him. Once I get started with the exhaust system, it may be a few weeks before I get the car back on the road.

Hey Ogre, have you been able to use any of those extra parts? Let me know how it's going. After the holidays, I'm thinking about selling the duke that I have over by the side wall. I have one in the other car, and I don't think I will ever use it. How much would an engine (with about 80k miles) sell for? As far as I know, the engine was running fine before the car slide off the road sideways and hit the tree. I've been spending my extra time over the last few weeks working on the Firebird. I should have the Fiero and the Firebird in good shape for next spring.

later, Jimmy

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1987 coupe; Blue; 2.5L; 5-spd
1987 Firebird Formula; Blue; 5L; 5-spd

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theogre
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Report this Post11-06-2013 12:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you want to save connector (small one)...
Use two vicegrips.
Push together and maybe twist a bit to get tabs to release.
Avoid heat. Heat can damage the hardness in metal. If stuck, try using a screwdriver and twist a bit to spread the clip.
Clip has "ears" to lock the cable end. (2 each end) Some are bent in more and need to bend out a little.



I forgot to put that in cave...

Parts, see PM

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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84fiero123
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Report this Post11-06-2013 12:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Macarchie:


Thanks for the input guys... The adjuster works fine, I loosened it up back when I replaced the rear calipers. The disconnect is the problem. I'll try the vice grip approach. One of the guys at work suggested throwing a little heat on it to try and loosen it up also. I have a spare cable on the donor car (I will ensure that it is usable before I cut the disconnect or the cable.)

later, Jimmy



They are easy to find, I always just put a flat bladed screwdriver in between the two cables and twist, that will open up the clip I guess they call it and allow you to remove the cables a lot easier than trying to do it the right way if its frozen. then just replace it with a new one if it brakes or anything else.

They have a couple of tabs on the back side of the open end of the clip, if its not to rusty you need to bend them back just a tad to allow the cable balls to be moved into the center before they will come out. you only really have to get one out so worry about the one you need to replace if that is what you are doing. Try not to brake the little clip off or you will also have to replace the clip as well, because that is all that holds the cables in if the cables get slack.

Steve

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Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 11-06-2013).]

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