Hi huys!

I did scan my 1986 Fiero SE V6, 4 Spd Man this week-end.

It seems to me that the car is running quite nicely, but I suppose a very little bit high idle.

==> Do you see anything wrong or can you give me some comments about these two screen shots?
(For example, the "EGR Duty cycle" always stays at 0 = normal?
Integrator at 136 = OK?)


IGNITION ON


CAR IDLING and WARM


Thanks a lot!!!

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Christophe - 1986 Pontiac Fiero - V6 2.8l - 4 Spd Man

You will need to look at your readings when cruising. Have someone drive and observe your scans. Your EGR won't come on until moving, under partial load. With you integrator readings, it is not as much as where they are at at one point as much as it is if they continue to climb or drop.
When the ECM gets to a point where it can't control things is when you have problems. 128 is center. Watch you temp. Make sure your fan is coming on if it gets a little higher. You are getting very good O2 cross counts for idle. Because your O2 readings are good I would look for leaks that would not vastly effect mixture. Lightly leaking EGR, but Idle control should be trying to drop down more. May want to remove idle air control motor and make sure it is not dirty causing it to stick a little. But the readings don't look that bad.

[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 10-28-2013).]

Looks normal to me. Idle 950 +/-50 is fine.
When driving, check your crosscounts, the faster it counts, the better the ECM is correcting in closed loop.
Are you experiencing any issues?

I agree with the above comments. In addition, the BLM (long-term fuel correction) of 121 indicates that the engine is running slightly rich at idle, and the ECM is reducing fuel delivery slightly to compensate. (BLM = 128 is "perfect.") INT is short-term fuel correction, and it will tend to vary a lot more than BLM. (Again, INT = 128 is the "perfect" value.) Note that INT and BLM numbers are meaningful only when the ECM is in closed-loop mode.

The coolant temperature (CTS) is a little higher than normal, but that's probably the result of driving at normal temperature and then stopping and letting the car run at idle for several minutes. Normal coolant temperature while driving should be around 95C.

The MAT (intake manifold air temperature) is a little warm, which suggests that you may be getting intake air from the engine compartment. Has your intake air system been modified from stock? Then again, it may just be a normal result of sitting and idling for several minutes.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 10-29-2013).]

So tell me about this scantool, where do I get one?

The Fiero Store sells them.

First of all, THANKS a lot for all your answers and your help!!!!!
Really appreciate it!!

quote Originally posted by cmechmann: You will need to look at your readings when cruising. Have someone drive and observe your scans. Your EGR won't come on until moving, under partial load. With you integrator readings, it is not as much as where they are at at one point as much as it is if they continue to climb or drop. When the ECM gets to a point where it can't control things is when you have problems. 128 is center. Watch you temp. Make sure your fan is coming on if it gets a little higher. You are getting very good O2 cross counts for idle. Because your O2 readings are good I would look for leaks that would not vastly effect mixture. Lightly leaking EGR, but Idle control should be trying to drop down more. May want to remove idle air control motor and make sure it is not dirty causing it to stick a little. But the readings don't look that bad.

Will check it with someone doing screen shots while I'll be driving!
EGR tube is new (2 years).
I had a disconnected hose 2 months ago: the one that is connected to the EGR solenoid: replaced it and reconnected it!
Should I check for other vacuum leaks?

Idle Air Control Motor = IAC valve?
Any tips for cleaning it? (don't want to make something wrong by using some cleaners that coulf affect it!)

quote Originally posted by fieroluke: Looks normal to me. Idle 950 +/-50 is fine. When driving, check your crosscounts, the faster it counts, the better the ECM is correcting in closed loop. Are you experiencing any issues?

Crosscounts seem to be quite good!
Will check how much times it will cross lean/rich during complete 0-250 crosscounts!

No codes, but only issue I have is a 975-1025 idle, whereas my car idled at about 900-925 a few months ago!
My thread about my Idle

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: I agree with the above comments. In addition, the BLM (long-term fuel correction) of 121 indicates that the engine is running slightly rich at idle, and the ECM is reducing fuel delivery slightly to compensate. (BLM = 128 is "perfect.") INT is short-term fuel correction, and it will tend to vary a lot more than BLM. (Again, INT = 128 is the "perfect" value.) Note that INT and BLM numbers are meaningful only when the ECM is in closed-loop mode. The coolant temperature (CTS) is a little higher than normal, but that's probably the result of driving at normal temperature and then stopping and letting the car run at idle for several minutes. Normal coolant temperature while driving should be around 95C. The MAT (intake manifold air temperature) is a little warm, which suggests that you may be getting intake air from the engine compartment. Has your intake air system been modified from stock? Then again, it may just be a normal result of sitting and idling for several minutes.

Yes, indeed, I drove the car about 10 miles, then stopped a few minutes and car was idling! That must be the reason why CT and MAT were a little high.
Concerning my Air Intake, I just replaced the stock one by a K&N air filter!

What should I check if my car is running slightly rich?

quote Originally posted by newfiejeff: So tell me about this scantool, where do I get one?

Got this one from the Fiero Strore!
I think that fieroluke is the owner and producer of it!
FieroStore Scan Tool from fieroluke


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Christophe - 1986 Pontiac Fiero - V6 2.8l - 4 Spd Man

[This message has been edited by DJWINNI (edited 10-30-2013).]

Hi,

that's correct, and from the screenshot I see you have an old version of the software.
Let me know if you want me to send you the latest version.

Best regards

Oliver

quote Originally posted by fieroluke: Hi, that's correct, and from the screenshot I see you have an old version of the software. Let me know if you want me to send you the latest version. Best regards Oliver

PM sent Oliver!
Thanks a lot!!

quote Originally posted by DJWINNI: Concerning my Air Intake, I just replaced the stock one by a K&N air filter!

In that case you are now indeed drawing hot air from the engine compartment rather than cold air from outside. The stock Fiero cold air intake is a good design, and replacing it with a K&N filter is a step backwards. That alone could explain your slightly low BLM readings; warm air = less dense, which tends to make the fuel mixture run slightly rich, but your BLMs aren't far enough off to worry about.

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: In that case you are now indeed drawing hot air from the engine compartment rather than cold air from outside. The stock Fiero cold air intake is a good design, and replacing it with a K&N filter is a step backwards. That alone could explain your slightly low BLM readings; warm air = less dense, which tends to make the fuel mixture run slightly rich, but your BLMs aren't far enough off to worry about.

Maybe not. I have a K&N that fits in the stock Fiero can.

quote Originally posted by Gall757: Maybe not. I have a K&N that fits in the stock Fiero can.

Yes, me too!
I have this one, not the cone filter for funnel ram Intake!

quote Originally posted by DJWINNI: I have this one, not the cone filter for funnel ram Intake!

Thanks for the clarification. That is different than what you originally wrote:

quote Originally posted by DJWINNI: Concerning my Air Intake, I just replaced the stock one by a K&N air filter!