It was located at the right top corner of the instrument cluster. Just like the headlight switch, but opposite side. The black bezel on the right side of the cluster held the trunk release at the top and the rear defroster at the bottom, if equipped. Otherwise the respective panels were blank.
If it hasn't been cut away, the harness for the release is tucked away behind the bezel. Do you have a release solenoid attached to the trunk latch?
Yes it just a blank there, but when you look at the trunk there looks like a electronic latch with 3 wires on it and on the firewall just in front of the slave cylinder there is a relay. Is it possible that it is all there just they didn't put the button there on the dash?
The relay by the slave is most likely fuel pump. It there where two the other would be AC. Unless it's not a factory installed relay. The popper relay is normally in the dash just below the popper switch. Often a yellow colored relay but can vary.
If the release solenoid is original to the car, look at the harness coming out of the deck lid near the passenger side hinge. From the decklid, it should have 4 wires going into the plug. If the solenoid wasn't original, there will be one blank space in the harness connector. The extra wire can be snaked through the decklid and a connector crimped on and inserted into the harness. The rest of the harness that runs through the car to the instrument cluster is already there. You'd just need to add the switch and bezel and plug in the release relay that Dodgerunner described.
Three wires going to the lid means that the release was added. It didn't come with the car. You'll have to pull a wire through the decklid. This is what I did when I added a release to the Club Courtesy Car. It was a no-options car.
I bought some 1/8 diameter bare wire. I already had a small reel of black insulated multi-strand wire to use to complete the circuit. On the end of the bare wire, I folded about 1 inch back at a 180, making as small a loop as possible, without closing it. I taped the end so it wouldn't snag if I had to pull it back before getting all the way through. I unbolted the latch from the decklid and pushed the wire down through the rib.
Once it came out, I removed the tape, inserted my insulated wire into the loop and ran it alongside the main part of the snake wire. I then wrapped tape around the two wires, covering the ends of both so they wouldn't snag on the way back through. Once I had the insulated circuit wire pulled all the way through, I left close to a foot hanging out both ends. The reason for this is that at the time I didn't have a solenoid release, nor the terminals that plugs into the solenoid or the terminal that goes into the other end of the harness.
I found a car with release at the pull-a-part yard, cut about 6 inches off both ends of the harness, removed the relay from underneath the dash and got the release switch and bezel. I then soldered and heat-shrinked the connections to each end of the new circuit wire, opened up the harness connector at the deck lid and inserted the terminal. On the other end, I installed the release solenoid and plugged it in.
Then in the passenger compartment, I installed and plugged in the switch and located the relay harness (hidden) underneath the right side of the instrument panel and installed the relay.
When removing the trunk latch, be careful that you don't lose the little spring that goes around the rod that connects the cylinder and latch.
Thanks and that is a job the winter!!! What is the procedure for getting the back key latch out, where my key goes into the deck lid, it seems like its gone in pretty far. I am afraid that my key wouldn't be able to reach all the way and not turn...then what do I do
With the decklid open, directly undereath the lock cylinder you will see a square plate with 2 screws holding it in place. Remove that plate and there's a metal clip that slides over the lock cylinder to hold it in place. I suspect yours has come loose or is missing. It's similar to the one used to hold your cables in place on the transmission. If it's missing, get another or in the interim, remove the lock, rod and spring and you can insert a screwdriver into the hole to release the latch. Of course, removing the cylinder opens it up for water to get inside the trunk.
Nope I had it apart. I thought it would be a better setup than what it is...but it is what it is. The clip is on the metal plate that I took off and of course the lock fell down...lol. So the clip must press against the two piece of the lock to keep it against the trunk? Looking at them on Ebay and comparing them to mine I have one piece missing, so that is why mine is all loose. Oh and the tumbler is all apart, so anything will work....screwdriver works wonders...hahahha.
The clip slips over a groove on the cylinder to hold it in place. With the cylinder pushed out flush against the deck lid, you can push the clip and plate into position and secure it with the screws. Don't over-tighten the screws. They go into fiberglass. If you can't get the cylinder to stay in place, you can remove the latch, install the cylinder, spring and rod, then put the latch back on.
Fierostore sells the lock cylinders. You might have to carry 3 keys unless you want to go through the ungodly task of swapping in matching door locks, too. Just be sure you don't lock the trunk until you get everything working with the key. There's no other way to get into the trunk if you don't already have a remote release.
Is there much work in replacing the door locks? I think they are not in much better condition either.
I understand they aren't an easy task. Some people remove the outer door skin while others go at it from the inside. I have a car that needs door locks replaced, but won't attempt it because of the reports I've heard about how hard the task is. Probably not something for the novice.
