Is this an item that can be purchased or made? I could not find a picture in the shop manual. Is it difficult to do? I may have one that is a problem, I'll check it out but thought I would get some insite into this situation.
I think I can find a picture. See the bolt on the upper suspension it goes thru the sleeve to the other side of upper A arm. I have not seen one but have been told there is a sleeve there.
Appears to me that part of the support for the A arm has torn away and let the bushing just sort of sit on the shaft. I think more pictures are needed, one with a complete view of the arm and support area. Larry
Appears to me that part of the support for the A arm has torn away and let the bushing just sort of sit on the shaft. I think more pictures are needed, one with a complete view of the arm and support area. Larry
No I was trying to explain where the slevee is. I do not have a picture of one, can not find it in shop manual. I have noticed it mentioned on the forum that it could be the clunk I hear once in a while and I am trying to find out if there is a part/slevee that can be purchased to replace a bad one if indeed that is what I am hearing. Trying to do some research. Yes I did a search and I found one thread but the pictures will not appear so I have no idea. Thanks
84-87's front upper control arm suspension.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 09-29-2013).]
The sleeve that holds the UCA bolt is built into the suspension crossmember, and is not replaceable. That said, the sleeve seems to be a common failure point. Either the ends will get loose and allow the control arm to wiggle around, or the welds break and the whole thing comes loose.
Unfortunately, I don't know of an easy fix for that. But if you find one, let me know. Because the sleeves on my '87 SE have loosened up, so the upper control arms have some play.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 09-29-2013).]
The sleeve that holds the UCA bolt is built into the suspension crossmember, and is not replaceable. That said, the sleeve seems to be a common failure point. Either the ends will get loose and allow the control arm to wiggle around, or the welds break and the whole thing comes loose.
Unfortunately, I don't know of an easy fix for that. But if you find one, let me know. Because the sleeves on my '87 SE have loosened up, so the upper control arms have some play.
sounds like an area to look into for replacement parts.
Still dont know what it looks like.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 09-29-2013).]
That's basically what it is, a short piece of pipe that the bolt goes through. It's welded to the crossmember. And the welds are not easily accessible, since it's sandwiched between 2 layers of metal.
All it does is allow the bolt to tighten down on something, if it were not there the bolt would pull the two ends of the mount and control arm together. If it breaks loose the bolt is still tight but is loose in the bracket. If yours is missing then someone took it out. Larry
All it does is allow the bolt to tighten down on something, if it were not there the bolt would pull the two ends of the mount and control arm together. If it breaks loose the bolt is still tight but is loose in the bracket. If yours is missing then someone took it out. Larry
Originally posted by trotterlg: All it does is allow the bolt to tighten down on something...
The sleeve actually attaches the upper control arm to the suspension crossmember. If the sleeve were to break loose from the crossmember, the upper control arm would be flopping around loose.
I think it goes through a hole in the mount on each end of it and is welded in. If it breaks loose the bolt is still contained in the hole the sleeve is ment to be welded into? Think this is how it is built. Larry
If you need a crossmember, you can have this one, but you'll have to come get it... One of the rack mount bolt holes needs repair, otherwise it's in great shape.
If it sticks out that far just weld it in, in the right spot of course. been a decade or more but I think I had to weld that in on my 84, cant remember for sure if it was that or not, had a stroke since. (Memory is not what it used to be) you can tell where it goes from the wear on the other parts and itself, provided nothing else it to worn from it being lose. I do remember having to use a mirror to weld the backside of something near there, whether it was that or not I don't remember for sure.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
If you need a crossmember, you can have this one, but you'll have to come get it... One of the rack mount bolt holes needs repair, otherwise it's in great shape.
Bob
Thanks, I'll take you up on that. I'll get the wifes car and run on over to your side of the state.
This is one of the reasons I've stuck with Fieros all these years. I like this forum and how folks help one another out. You don't always see that across other platforms at all. Very nice of you RCR! Good luck Solo. I think replacing that crossmember is the best thing also. Get rid of all that rust and start with a solid foundation and you'll probably be so much happier. I'd also replace that little steering shock while you are down there.
The big question is whether or not the Fiero Store actually checks those sleeves to make sure they're still tight.
Hmmm I was thinking the exact same thing on the way to my part time minimum wage job yesterday. (Help I need employment) If the holes are worn in the sand blasted and painted used part from fiero store then what good is it? Do they check the ends for correct dimensions/wear? Do they ensure the holes are within a given tolerance? Round and not egg shaped? At the price they are selling it at I doubt it.
The Situation that I see is a way to make a replacement that could replace or cover over or attach to the existing tube so one does not have to cut open the area and reweld when trying to do a complete replacement tube. From reading posts here on the forum it seems the culprit is the cheap steel GM used. It has been said the ends wear out from the bolt used in the upper control arm. Apparently the bolt is a higher strength steel so the tube which is not the same steel wears. This may be a carry over from the Chevette design staff and chevy being cheap.
Now if only I had the means to design and manufacture this concept. Hmmmm Hello lottery gods I need some help. LOL! I guess one needs to buy a ticket first.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-01-2013).]
Just try this and report results, take the wheel off, compress the suspension from under the lower arm. Important !
Then try to move the entire brake assembly, from 11 O Clock to 1 O Clock, watch the upper arm, if the upper arm does a little see sawing motion, you will know where that clunking noise is coming from when you step on the brake, it's the long upper bolt pitching inside the sleeve. The bolt is making the noise. When you pull the bolt you will see how "shiny" it is, that bolt is hardened steel, the crossmember tube is softer, mild steel, egged out. I'm willing to bet five bucks."
rourke_87_T-Top I followed your instructions to the "T" as I wanted to see if that is/was a problem. I did as you suggested with the car on jack stands on the subframe and the jack under the lower control arm compressing the suspension. I wiggled, reefed, yanked front to rear, side to side, up down, every way I could think of. Both sides. No motion. I did find a tiny amount of play in the rack. So I am not sure what the clunk is. It may be as I suspected a long time ago, that the front calipers are sticking but ?
The lower left ball joint is new. tie rod ends are new. I thought Previous Owner said ball joints are new. May be the left upper? or right lower or upper? What do you think?
Thanks, Steve
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-09-2013).]
If you need a crossmember, you can have this one, but you'll have to come get it... One of the rack mount bolt holes needs repair, otherwise it's in great shape.
Installed a new caliper on the drivers side were all the clunking seemed to be generalted from, yesterday. Drove it to work last night. No noise, but I have learned not to consider it fixed & done. I'll drive it to work tomorrow to evaluate it some more. O'rourke may be correct.
