Just changed brakes all the way around with new caliper in the rear. I have burped the system. Now I have no brake pedal at all when I first start the car. I pump the pedal a few times and pressure comes back but the brakes are not good. Don't dare drive the car far. Shut it off and I lose all pressure. Turn the car back on and the brake light comes on and pedal to the floor again. I suspect a major problem in the brake booster?

So let me have the bad news. What do I have to replace now?

Did you bleed the caliper? Did you adjust up the rear via the e-brake lever (on the calipers), to take up any slack?

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 09-23-2013).]

You don't have to replace anything. What is happening is brake piston on one side or the other (or both) in the rear is receding into the bore. When you press the brake, the fluid has to pump out the piston again, and your pedal feels like crap.

Check out the ogres cave, look for brakes.

I ended up using this method because the ogre's method didn't work for me (It's easy!).

1) Pull off the ebrake cables if they are still there.
2) Pull off the springs
3) Remove the e brake lever (17mm I think). This will leave you with a stud with a 13 or 14 mm nut on it close to the caliper
4) Use a 14/133mm wrench to rotate the stud via the nut. You have to be careful to rotate the passenger side clockwise, and the driver counter clockwise. It's towards the rear if that helps. The stud should appear to be coming towards the middle of the car. It will hit a 'stop' when the pads close on the rotor
5) Reinstall the ebrake lever at the closest position to reset. It's only a 6 point deal, so it could bu up to 59 degrees from the stop.Put the nut back on
6) Check for drag...you shouldn't have any. Lift the ebrake lever...it should stop before 1/2 throw
7) Reinstall ebrake hardware. Note...if you don't have a cable, still install springs to keep the levers reset!!

Now you will have good brakes...enjoy!!


Chay

Chay

[This message has been edited by Slowbuild (edited 09-23-2013).]

I always fill the calipers before putting a new one on, they are empty and it will take you forever to bleed it if you don't do that. just take a bottle of brake fluid and poor it straight into the caliper hole the brake line attaches to. then put that cap/plug back in the hole until you get it mounted and are ready to put the brake line back on.

then bleed the system, gravity bleed can work as well, after if you still have a soft pedal, just make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry, if you do you will have to start all over again, anytime you bleed the brakes, make sure the master cylinder doesn't get to low or its a pain, as you have to disconnect the master from the lines and bleed the master all by itself.

Steve

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Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

Rebuilt or new... it does matter.
Many Rebuilt are bad right out of the box.
If you have to mess with piston adjustment, return them under warranty.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)