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Clutchnet Clutch Releases, then grabbs again? by Slowbuild
Started on: 09-17-2013 01:58 AM
Replies: 11 (154 views)
Last post by: Slowbuild on 09-18-2013 05:26 PM
Slowbuild
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Report this Post09-17-2013 01:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SlowbuildSend a Private Message to SlowbuildEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi all. I installed a 6puck Clutchnet behind my 4 speed Muncie with the original pressure plate and throw out bearing.

As I press the clutch pedal, the clutch releases at about 1/2 travel, then catches again near the end of travel. I suspect the fingers of the diaphram spring on the pressure plate are making contact with the clutch in some way. This is not a hydraulic issue. I have 1" of extension from the slave, and it is very repeatable.

Anyone experienced something similar before??

The sucker does grab when it comes in, that's for sure!!!!

Chay

[This message has been edited by Slowbuild (edited 09-17-2013).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post09-17-2013 03:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Mine does that, too. The simple solution is to not push the pedal all the way, because it over-extends the clutch.
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Gall757
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Report this Post09-17-2013 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Another solution is to get a shorter pushrod on the slave cylinder.
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Slowbuild
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Report this Post09-17-2013 11:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SlowbuildSend a Private Message to SlowbuildEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok, so it's not that unusual.

It was suggested by another member to make an adjustable pushrod...I think I'm going that route.

Chay
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Patrick
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Report this Post09-17-2013 11:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Slowbuild:

It was suggested by another member to make an adjustable pushrod...I think I'm going that route.


Chay, I suggested making an adjustable banjo.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-17-2013).]

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trotterlg
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Report this Post09-17-2013 11:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for trotterlgClick Here to Email trotterlgSend a Private Message to trotterlgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
With a shorter pushrod the piston will simply compensate by moving further out in the bore. There will be no affect until the piston hits the end of it's travel. If you want to fix the problem you need to limit the travel of the master in some way. Larry
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Patrick
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Report this Post09-17-2013 12:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by trotterlg:

If you want to fix the problem you need to limit the travel of the master in some way.


The floor limits its travel quite effectively.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I suggested making an adjustable banjo.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-17-2013).]

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trotterlg
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Report this Post09-17-2013 12:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trotterlgClick Here to Email trotterlgSend a Private Message to trotterlgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just a note, I have the exact same setup in my 86 GT (6 puck sprung center and stock pressure plate), it does work really well, I would recommend this to anyone doing a new clutch in a stock to moderately modified engine. Larry
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Slowbuild
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Report this Post09-18-2013 12:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SlowbuildSend a Private Message to SlowbuildEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It does work, as Patrick suggests it bottom out on the floor.

It's complete and the problem is solved by reducing the banjo length by 1/2-3/4". I made it adjustabole as suggested by chopping about 3/4" out of the bajo, then threading the pieces with a 5/16 die, and using a threaded coupler and a jam nut to set the length.

Now on to my crappy brakes!

Chay
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Phil
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Report this Post09-18-2013 07:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PhilClick Here to Email PhilSend a Private Message to PhilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I solved that problem on my car by putting a spacer on the support rail above the clutch pedal. Shortens up the pedal travel.
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post09-18-2013 03:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

Another solution is to get a shorter pushrod on the slave cylinder.


Do not do this.

If you limit the slave cylinder travel by using a shorter pushrod, you're limiting the travel by using the piston retaining clip as a stop. You will eventually break your slave cylinder by cracking off the portion ahead of the retaining clip groove. You will not be very happy after this happens.

The correct solution is to limit travel at the master cylinder, as described above.

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 09-18-2013).]

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Slowbuild
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Report this Post09-18-2013 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlowbuildSend a Private Message to SlowbuildEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
^^^ Agree. Also, with a shorter pushrod at the slave you will likely get the slave piston into an area which is corroded because it is exposed (ok, behind a rubber dust seal, but mostly exposed) and therfore have air enter. I have thought about a longer pushrod to get a slightly rusty slave back into the hole a bit more and hopefully seal. I might try it one day if the slave starts picking up air.

Not to mention it won't work...the master determines the travel of the slave.
Chay
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