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ICM failing by Ridgelandbaseball
Started on: 09-10-2013 01:07 PM
Replies: 13 (349 views)
Last post by: phonedawgz on 09-12-2013 04:45 AM
Ridgelandbaseball
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Report this Post09-10-2013 01:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RidgelandbaseballClick Here to Email RidgelandbaseballSend a Private Message to RidgelandbaseballEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know this has been discussed many times here but coming back from Fierorama yesterday (350 miles), my icm failed three times. The funny thing is the module I left home with made it all the way to Fierorama and 50 miles back toward home. Within the next 300 miles, three blew up. I don't get it. Maybe there is something else wrong. I have the 2.8 with mini or stubby headers and it was really HOT yesterday but three?! I have searched the subject here and have read about heat sinks, replacing the ignition coil, pick up coil, and wires. I do have an aftermarket MSD coil which someone said could be the problem. I thought about moving it elsewhere but where and how? I would like to make some jumpers so I don't have to cut the stock wiring. Any thoughts?
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css9450
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Report this Post09-10-2013 01:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ridgelandbaseball:

I have searched the subject here and have read about heat sinks, replacing the ignition coil, pick up coil, and wires.


You did remember to use heat sink paste on the new modules, right? Its much better than the grease they usually put in the box with the new module.

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Gall757
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Report this Post09-10-2013 02:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bad plug wires can kill a module (too much resistance), but if I replaced anything, I would put a stock ignition coil on the top of the list.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post09-10-2013 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Check the gap on your plugs.

Ohm out your plug wires and make sure they are less than 10K ohm per foot. Replace them if they are older.

Visually inspect the pick up coil. Replace it if it looks bad. You can also electrically test it.

After those are preformed then replace your ignition coil.

Make sure your ICM has the proper heat sink compound.

You should not have to move your ICM. They did not fail in hundreds of miles when Fieros were new. Unless Al Gore is telling us that the temps now are substantially hotter than in the 80s, heat is not what is killing your ICM.
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Ridgelandbaseball
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Report this Post09-10-2013 10:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RidgelandbaseballClick Here to Email RidgelandbaseballSend a Private Message to RidgelandbaseballEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for all the info. Did not use the heat sink paste as we were replacing these on the highway. Just used the stuff that came with the ICM. Will get some. Will check/replace all items noted
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IanT720
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Report this Post09-10-2013 10:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IanT720Click Here to Email IanT720Send a Private Message to IanT720Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ridgelandbaseball:

Thanks for all the info. Did not use the heat sink paste as we were replacing these on the highway. Just used the stuff that came with the ICM. Will get some. Will check/replace all items noted


That's what he meant, the little packet it comes with. So you can rule that out.
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Gall757
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Report this Post09-10-2013 10:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by IanT720:


That's what he meant, the little packet it comes with. So you can rule that out.


This has been discussed before, but it should be on this thread too. Many (most?) packets that come with the ICMs are the wrong stuff. If it is clear it is di-electric grease and is designed to be an electrical insulator used in connectors, not a heat transfer paste. The correct stuff is usually opaque white.
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GodSend
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Report this Post09-10-2013 11:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GodSendClick Here to Email GodSendSend a Private Message to GodSendEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
After you run the car for awhile check the distributor base (be careful), I was frying modules, couldent figure it out, took a look at night and the base was GLOWING red hot.

Turned out the shaft was warped causing the entire thing to heat up.
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mattwa
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Report this Post09-11-2013 12:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mattwaClick Here to Email mattwaSend a Private Message to mattwaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The base was hot, that's for sure, but it wasn't red hot. I think the addition of the real heat transfer paste would help, since I did in fact use that clear paste only because it was all we had, but I don't trust that car at all anymore.

[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 09-11-2013).]

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Ridgelandbaseball
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Report this Post09-11-2013 01:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RidgelandbaseballClick Here to Email RidgelandbaseballSend a Private Message to RidgelandbaseballEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
[B]Originally posted
but I don't trust that car at all anymore.


What do you mean not trust it!? Just a little tweaking and checking into the things listed would do the trick.
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IanT720
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Report this Post09-11-2013 06:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IanT720Click Here to Email IanT720Send a Private Message to IanT720Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:


This has been discussed before, but it should be on this thread too. Many (most?) packets that come with the ICMs are the wrong stuff. If it is clear it is di-electric grease and is designed to be an electrical insulator used in connectors, not a heat transfer paste. The correct stuff is usually opaque white.


Oh had no idea, every one I ever needed to buy had the opaque gluey stuff, not the grease. Didn't even know that was an issue
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Ridgelandbaseball
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Report this Post09-12-2013 12:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RidgelandbaseballClick Here to Email RidgelandbaseballSend a Private Message to RidgelandbaseballEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

You should not have to move your ICM. They did not fail in hundreds of miles when Fieros were new. Unless Al Gore is telling us that the temps now are substantially hotter than in the 80s, heat is not what is killing your ICM.


As you say, I shouldn't have to move it which I'm sure is correct, but would it hurt if I did if not only to reduce the heat to it but make it easier to replace?That being said I do plan to replace the wires, pick up coil and ignition coil to be safe.
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Ridgelandbaseball
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Report this Post09-12-2013 12:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RidgelandbaseballClick Here to Email RidgelandbaseballSend a Private Message to RidgelandbaseballEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ridgelandbaseball

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Duplicate post

[This message has been edited by Ridgelandbaseball (edited 09-12-2013).]

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phonedawgz
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Report this Post09-12-2013 04:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Two screws on the cap and two screws that hold the ICM on is too difficult? I don't see what it would hurt to move it, but I don't see it as being an advantage.

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