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Can the throttle, cruise, or shift cables be lubricated? by masospaghetti
Started on: 08-28-2013 10:13 AM
Replies: 18 (548 views)
Last post by: Rodney on 02-04-2015 11:43 AM
masospaghetti
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Report this Post08-28-2013 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for masospaghettiClick Here to Email masospaghettiSend a Private Message to masospaghettiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've heard for some cables, adding oil will destroy the lining. Is that the case with Fiero cables?
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Report this Post08-28-2013 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for aaronkochClick Here to Email aaronkochSend a Private Message to aaronkochEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Graphite? That should be safe..

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fierofool
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Report this Post08-28-2013 12:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by masospaghetti:

I've heard for some cables, adding oil will destroy the lining. Is that the case with Fiero cables?


Usually when it gets to the point you need to lube the cable, it's already beginning to deteriorate and you're just delaying the inevitable. Some people have been successful in lubing various cables with the use of a shop vac. Their method includes inserting one end of the cable into the vacuum hose and taping over to make a good seal. Then insert the other end into the lubricant of choice and turn on the vacuum. This will pull lubricant into the cable. Be careful that you don't overheat the shop vac due to the reduced air flow.
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theogre
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Report this Post08-29-2013 10:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
Usually when it gets to the point you need to lube the cable, it's already beginning to deteriorate and you're just delaying the inevitable.

And wrong lube make deterioration faster.

Most cables are steel w/ Nylon/Plastic sleeve and Many plastics hates most lubes. Can swell, harden then "rot" faster, etc.

If lube helps then get new cables.
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post08-29-2013 10:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I never use Graphite for lubrication,its gritty and causes increased wear.
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Gall757
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Report this Post08-29-2013 02:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by James Bond 007:

I never use Graphite for lubrication,its gritty and causes increased wear.


You got the wrong graphite. This according to wiki....

Graphite lubricants are specialty items for use at very high or very low temperatures, as forging die lubricant, an antiseize agent, a gear lubricant for mining machinery, and to lubricate locks. Having low-grit graphite, or even better no-grit graphite (ultra high purity), is highly desirable. It can be used as a dry powder, in water or oil, or as colloidal graphite (a permanent suspension in a liquid). An estimate based on USGS graphite consumption statistics indicates that 2,200 tonnes was used in this fashion in 2005.[8]
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Pyrthian
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Report this Post08-29-2013 03:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianClick Here to Email PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:
And wrong lube make deterioration faster.

Most cables are steel w/ Nylon/Plastic sleeve and Many plastics hates most lubes. Can swell, harden then "rot" faster, etc.

If lube helps then get new cables.


this is what happened to me.
I had the select cable getting sticky, so I thought I'd lube it.
what ended up happening then - whenever the cable got hot - it would swell & seize. was real fun at the Waterford Track Day on the Fiero 25th. 1/2 way thru the session, the select cable would seize, and I was stuck with 3rd & 4th only. after every track session, I had to keep working the cable at the tranny with channel locks to loosen it, and keep it from seizing again before the next session.
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Fierology
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Report this Post01-30-2015 08:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I believe I have Dickman's cables, and my selector cable has become very stiff in just ~30k miles. Do any lubricants work? It seems that, properly applied, graphite would work very well, but it must be hard to get it in through the whole cable. Does anyone have luck lubricating their cables?

Thanks,
Michael
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Gall757
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Report this Post01-30-2015 09:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Look carefully at the route the cable takes from the firewall to the transmission. The usual reason for cable failure is that the cable is too close to an exhaust pipe or heat shield, and something melts. I doubt if lube is going to help anything.
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Rodney
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Report this Post01-31-2015 06:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageClick Here to Email RodneySend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierology:

I believe I have Dickman's cables, and my selector cable has become very stiff in just ~30k miles. Do any lubricants work? It seems that, properly applied, graphite would work very well, but it must be hard to get it in through the whole cable. Does anyone have luck lubricating their cables?

Thanks,
Michael


I answered your email on this. I also checked your order history and you did not get them from me.

Keeping the cables as far away from any heat source is what makes them last. Certainly the exhaust system is the biggest problem. Did you route it behind the heat shield? Every Getrag select cable I send out includes the GM TSB on the routing of the Getrag select cable behind the heat shield. I fold and staple this sheet to every Getrag select cable to make sure everyone that buys my select cable reads it.


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All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
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Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

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tebailey
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Report this Post01-31-2015 10:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have worked with cable controls on industrial equipment for 40yrs, and one thing I learned over that time is once you start having trouble with it, replace it. Over the years we tried every type of lube and ways to lube them. When they did come back and work it was a short term fix at best. If you plan on keeping the car bite the bullet and replace, and be careful how you route it, sharp bends or heat causes premature ware and binding.
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Rodney
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Report this Post01-31-2015 05:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageClick Here to Email RodneySend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There are aftermarket shift and select cables around that are really really low quality and have a very short life span. Many auto parts stores sell these. They will replace it once and after that they blame it on you. This is why I started making cables. Everyone was complaining about the junk aftermarket cables. This is why I have many things made. The aftermarket stuff is very low quality. Masters/slaves etc. I watch for things like emergency brake cables are very low quality etc. That is when I start looking to see if I can have them made in high quality.

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

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theogre
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Report this Post01-31-2015 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:
I have worked with cable controls on industrial equipment for 40yrs, and one thing I learned over that time is once you start having trouble with it, replace it. Over the years we tried every type of lube and ways to lube them. When they did come back and work it was a short term fix at best. If you plan on keeping the car bite the bullet and replace, and be careful how you route it, sharp bends or heat causes premature ware and binding.

Even cable lube kits for motor bikes doesn't last...
If dirt, water, or worse salt water, got into the cable... Lubing is often a band-aide fix.

Again... Wrong lube will make problems worse even if helps short term. WD40 and allot of others can attach many plastic.
And Graphite is a lube but not good for all materials.
Many cables has plastic shells, runs in plastic tube in metal shell, or cable itself have plastic surface.
Once plastic bearing surfaces are gone... you have metal grinding that will die very soon. Is common problem in Cable operated Clutches.

Yes tight bends and/or heat can damage cables. Example 84-87 P-brake main cable goes bad because of the exhaust heat. Especially if tail pipe is hit when someone backs into a curb etc and now cable is very close or on the exhaust pipe.

Cold weather can cause cable freezing from water wicked from the ends.
Note that Cool/cold weather can make stick trans problems... Many use wrong lube. Use sync oil in GM and other cars.
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Patrick
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Report this Post01-31-2015 08:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Cold weather can cause cable freezing from water wicked from the ends


I was quite surprised when I discovered that last winter, as discussed here... Temperature dropped - Getrag select cable frozen in place
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Fierology
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Report this Post02-03-2015 02:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Rodney- sorry for assuming I bought my select cable from you. Perhaps I got one of the cheap ones you mentioned. I noticed a made in Israel sticker on it. I also noticed my shifter cable looks just like the one you have pictured. That one might be yours, which would explain why I thought the other was from you, too. That one works very will still.

I was able to lubricate the stiff one enough with a plastic-safe ptfe lube so that I can drive it. Looks like I'll be needing a new one, and Rodney's looks to be the best one. Come to think of it, I think I need a throttle cable, too.

Thanks
Michael
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post02-03-2015 03:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Click Here to Email IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Once the cable is stiff, you can return it to good operation. However, the length of time it has been stiff has already deteriorated the guts of the cable. So, the fix doesn't last as long as a new cable. The best thing to do is to lubricate a new cable and seal and shield it better than stock.

I've reclaimed my GT Getrag cables with the use of an air compressor and making an inline oil resevoir. The pressure pushes the oil through the cable as you move it back and forth. You keep moving it until it bleeds clean. That has worked for me. You have to be very careful though or it can get messy or dangerous. If you have time on your side, you can gravity feed the oil and wait to move it back and forth until it weeps out the bottom.

Its easier just to buy a quality cable, seal and shield it better and be done with it.
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Report this Post02-04-2015 05:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for therepairguyClick Here to Email therepairguySend a Private Message to therepairguyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Most if not all of these cables have high density plastic as the casing, with extremely low friction for the cable, ANY petroleum products tend to "soften" these plastics over time. thats why the manufacturer used this material in the first place; to eliminate the need for lubrication. if you are having trouble with the cable sticking, you MUST replace it.
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theogre
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Report this Post02-04-2015 10:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
PTFE... Teflon® etc...
Make sure you check the product. PTFE is inert but many products have binders and solvents in the formulas that isn't "plastic safe." Many have warnings on the label do not use them w/ plastic. Other are hard to tell.

 
quote
Originally posted by IXSLR8:
I've reclaimed my GT Getrag cables with the use of an air compressor and making an inline oil resevoir. The pressure pushes the oil through the cable as you move it back and forth. You keep moving it until it bleeds clean. That has worked for me. You have to be very careful though or it can get messy or dangerous. If you have time on your side, you can gravity feed the oil and wait to move it back and forth until it weeps out the bottom.

Yup... Allot of oils burn very slowly or are nonflammable in normal use can easy because flammable or explosive when atomize the same products. That's ignoring Spray cans that often use Butane etc for propellant.
Is about same thing as dust explosions for grain storage etc.
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Rodney
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Report this Post02-04-2015 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageClick Here to Email RodneySend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have two Getrag select cables on hand right now that are slightly sticky. Not sticky that they will get worse in time. When they make cables the parts are crimped together. Occasionally a little rubber or something bulges out some and the cable ends up not feeling silky smooth. So I sell these as seconds. $60 plus shipping. They will last as long as my regular cables. Once installed this slight interference is not in any way noticeable. It is only noticeable when you move the cable by hand. It is a very minor amount. Just enough to make me not sell them as first quality. I feel that when you buy a shifting cable from me or anyone else it should move silky smooth. I would expect the same if I was buying a cable from someone else. I do not get many like this. Only occasionally I find one or two.


http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=54&products_id=298

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

[This message has been edited by Rodney (edited 02-04-2015).]

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