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Brake Pulling by Stainless1911
Started on: 08-26-2013 12:16 AM
Replies: 20 (240 views)
Last post by: MulletproofMonk on 08-30-2013 11:37 AM
Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 12:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Car goes right when braking. It's the front, you can tell by the dust. I'd say it would be the caliper, but I already replaced it. I put all 4 on it, rotors, a new master, and was careful to get a good bleed, knowing Fieros can be a little funny about brake/clutch bleeding. The brakes now have a couple thousand miles on them and the problem has remained consistent.

What do I do now?

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I have a 1987 Fiero, 4 cylinder 5 speed. With an 88 engine.

[This message has been edited by Stainless1911 (edited 08-26-2013).]

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theogre
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Report this Post08-26-2013 01:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Likely suspension problem...
Just One Bad bushing can cause this.

check front and back.

See my cave, suspension section.

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trotterlg
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Report this Post08-26-2013 01:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for trotterlgClick Here to Email trotterlgSend a Private Message to trotterlgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Replace the left one, could be the right is OK and the left is the problem. Larry
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by trotterlg:

Replace the left one, could be the right is OK and the left is the problem. Larry


That's interesting........
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 08:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Stainless1911

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Member since Apr 2012
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Likely suspension problem...
Just One Bad bushing can cause this.

check front and back.

See my cave, suspension section.



Really? How? ---> going to cave now.

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jaskispyder
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Report this Post08-26-2013 08:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:


That's interesting........


Well, you could have a situation where the other side is not working, causing the opposite side to "pull"... when in fact is is working correctly. Just a thought. I doubt it, except that I had a case with an 88 where the minute the caliper was clamped down tight, the slides would freeze the caliper in place. Loosen a hair and caliper would work fine. I had to shim the mounting point to fix it. Strangest thing and not caliper specific, but the mounting point was off a little on the knuckle.

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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 09:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I like the way you think.

OGRE, could you expound on the stuck bushing idea? That's a completely new viewpoint for me, and I'm intrigued.
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Report this Post08-26-2013 10:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:
OGRE, could you expound on the stuck bushing idea? That's a completely new viewpoint for me, and I'm intrigued.

If you replace all calipers... you first post is hard to follow.

I said Bad, not stuck....
Bad bushings and others suspension parts can let suspension move during braking because braking makes wheel alignment charges.
Bad/soft bushings etc can look ok at rest but move when car is run/accel/slow/brake.
watch youtube etc for testing ideas.

Example, soft cradle bushings let car to rear steer on engine load changes. MT is easy to see but AT can do it.
Car pulling can be rear steer problem...
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have replaced all bushings incl. cradle but will certainly look for it. You have given me a gem here, thank you. I think I have ruled out rear steering issues, the car drives well except during braking.
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post08-26-2013 10:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hoses good? All the air out of the lines? Calipers slide properly after you install them? Did you get grease on anything that shouldn't have grease?
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 10:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:

Hoses good? All the air out of the lines? Calipers slide properly after you install them? Did you get grease on anything that shouldn't have grease?


Im about to pull it in for a good look-over. I'm one of those drivers that actually does check stuff.
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Report this Post08-26-2013 10:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
One of the hoses could be collapsed and causing a one-way flow of fluid. Are they original hoses? The metal bracket that holds the hoses can also rust and compress the rubber line. Loosening this bracket from the hose can bring back full fluid flow.
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 11:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:

One of the hoses could be collapsed and causing a one-way flow of fluid. Are they original hoses? The metal bracket that holds the hoses can also rust and compress the rubber line. Loosening this bracket from the hose can bring back full fluid flow.


Nope, read about that on here before I ever drove it. Got a set of those nice braided SS flex lines from TFS.

I was wondering about the steel lies, as they had been redone right before I got the car last year.
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hobbywrench
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Report this Post08-28-2013 02:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hobbywrenchSend a Private Message to hobbywrenchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is not a solution but a rare instance of self correction and I still do not know why. My 86GT pulled left even after careful disassembly of calipers, replacement of slider bushings, new brake lines and RR caliper . I took temps of discs during run-all the same, all discs shiny, did not suspect master. Did not replace the pads at all. Gave up and kept driving for about a year (low miles , wkly driver). Then one day all was well. Go figure Invisible film on right pads? New caliper started to work??
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-28-2013 02:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
dadgum gremlins...
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theogre
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Report this Post08-28-2013 04:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
New rotors?
Did you Clean then?

Most New rotors come veg base lube to stop rusting... If not removed then you will glaze the pads etc.

I just wash new ones w/ dish soap in kitchen sink or a water hose.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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hobbywrench
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Report this Post08-28-2013 07:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hobbywrenchSend a Private Message to hobbywrenchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

New rotors?
Did you Clean then?

Most New rotors come veg base lube to stop rusting... If not removed then you will glaze the pads etc.

I just wash new ones w/ dish soap in kitchen sink or a water hose.



Rotors were usable and not under spec. Old pads all replaced in same position, The car pulled before all this and continued afterwards. Very baffling. I always wipe the rotors with white rag and alcohol if any finger prints. I thought perhaps the front pistons had ovaled and were sticking as the pulling only occured upon initial pedal stab. Continued pressure seemed to tame the pulling. A gremlin, yea.The front brakes are so simple it is hard to imagine sticking, but possible. Did not measure concentricity. I always suspect the rear calipers which are a curse. I replaced the RR caliiper because it failed to act properly in a vise during refurb (original). Not happy with the Autozone replacement. I believe is was overheated as the e-brake bracket screw pulled threads during tightening, but others have said this goes with territory as all rears are now recycles.

[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 08-28-2013).]

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Report this Post08-29-2013 08:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
New hoses or not, I'm with jaskispyder. I've had this 3 times on different vehicles and every time it was a bad hose. I'd remove the hoses and simply blow through them to see if they are clear.
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-29-2013 08:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good idea. I'm just waiting to get some money together for the parts.
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post08-29-2013 09:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
check the metal bracket that holds the rubber line. Unbend it a little, so the line is free to move. Flex that line and then take it for a test drive to see if that helps. Doesn't cost anything
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MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post08-30-2013 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Start troubleshooting with the basics. Jack the front of the car up, take the wheels off it and have someone press the brake pedal. The caliper should clamp down on the rotor and you shouldn't be able to turn it by hand. Check both sides while the pedal is pressed. If you can turn the rotor by hand with someone pressing the pedal, you obviously have a problem with the brakes (air, bad hose, hardline, caliper, etc).

If you can turn one rotor but not the other, go to the one that turns and have them pump the pedal to see if it clamps down. If it clamps down with pumping, then it might be that you still have air in there. That was my experience when I did the grand am upgrade... Drivers side wouldn't grab but the passenger side would.

------------------
-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel
My HUD install thread
Modified stock air canister and base to 3.5 inch for 3800na

Isn't it strange that after a bombing, everyone blames the bomber, his upbringing, his environment, his culture, his mental state but … after a shooting, the problem is the gun?

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