Swapping in a 350 when I get the kit in, after the show in the fall. And its gonna start off mated to a automatic. Gives me a reason to pull the v8 out later. Just curious to how long it will hold up with the extra power.
Archies kit has the plate that mates up the trans. It takes a different one for a stick and an auto, so if your going to run both, you will need both plates if theyre the same as they were 10 years ago. If you run the T125 trans with the V8, plan on it burning out in 1000 miles or so. I know because I tried 3 times. It was bad when I sold it with the 4th. I put about 4000 miles total on the car with the V8. The car was never hot rodded...all went out cruising on the freeway. Engine never overheated, they just started slipping out of gear till they wouldnt move at all.
Swapping in a 350 when I get the kit in, after the show in the fall. And its gonna start off mated to a automatic. Gives me a reason to pull the v8 out later.
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Originally posted by rogergarrison:
Archie's kit has the plate that mates up the trans. It takes a different one for a stick and an auto, so if your going to run both, you will need both plates if they're the same as they were 10 years ago. .
Why do the work twice? May as well go stick (as you're hinting) at the same time as engine swap while you have the car apart.
Dennis Lagrua might be able to help you in regards to strengthening it if you care to go that far, otherwise don't waste your time, I had a fresh rebuild with a shift upgrade behind a turbocharged 3.4 that was slipping 3rd before 1000 miles. It was a replacement for the original 3 speed that did the same thing. The band isn't strong enough to hold the drum and that was one of the things I recall Dennis years ago saying was beefed up in his turbo 3.4L car.
"Total engine conversion; completed, tuned up and runs perfectly!! Driven less than 1,000 since..." "The engine is set up matching w/ the stock 3-speed auto trans, which is starting to slip between 1st & 2nd gears. "
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 08-26-2013).]
Yep, note the miles in the ad. Magic 1000 mile failure. Wanna bet the reason hes selling it ? All of my transmissions were highly modified by a drag racing transmission shop. Last one they build had an 8 disc clutch pack. They tried custom torque converter, kevlar and stainless bands, modified valve body, higher pressure pumps. All made no difference. It was the reason I sold mine.
I have had a 4t40 behind the pos 305, a 4t60-E behind the 357 built sbc. All of them unrebuilt, but in good condition. I lost the first 4T60-E to water damage. I don't run slicks with it. I have a custom, one off drivers side axle by archie. Not going to a 65 or 65HD. I would not want to have this car with out the overdrive trans. For normal driving it works like it was factory. No fuss or bother, you mom could drive it with out a problem. The 2100 rpm stall helps. It doesn't need to turn a lot of rpm to move the car. The auto helps to keep the rpm / noise down. If I had a stick I would have to baby it for every shift. With the 4t60-E you can drive it with viger all the time. If I wanted to baby it all the time I would just drive my park ave. I did cam and intake it to kill some of the bottom end power so that the drive line stuff would last longer.
All of my transmissions were highly modified by a drag racing transmission shop. Last one they build had an 8 disc clutch pack. They tried custom torque converter, kevlar and stainless bands, modified valve body, higher pressure pumps. All made no difference. It was the reason I sold mine.
