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5 speed Shift Mechanism help!! by 4thfiero
Started on: 08-19-2013 10:13 AM
Replies: 33 (1416 views)
Last post by: 4thfiero on 11-07-2013 06:40 PM
4thfiero
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Report this Post08-19-2013 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey guys, I decided to post this question separately.


I had some work done on my tranny and shifter to adjust the ends so i have all my gears and to try and make her shift smoother...

I have a 5 speed getrag with the 5 speed shift mechanism from Fierostore.com.

My question is...

Is the 5 speed shift mechanism supposed to have a spring or spring(s) in it? So the stick shift will bounch back no a nice neutral position??
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4thfiero
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Report this Post08-19-2013 11:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Basically, I converted my 4 speed Fiero to a 5 speed using the Fiero Stored 5 speed shift mechanism, dickman's shift cables, a 91 sunbird 5 speed getrag and again dickmans 5 speed conversion kit for the Getrag Tranny.

Im noticing that my shifting has become a lot more stiff? and the gear box is a bit trickier to smoothly shift from N to 1st, then all other gears after that is kinda stiff. I took it to my tranny ppl, but they said there might not be much more they can do...Has anyone else had this issue or have experience with 5 speed stiff shifting?
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Gall757
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Report this Post08-19-2013 02:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The shifter is not spring loaded. Check the routing of your cables....if they bend too much they will bind.
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4thfiero
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Report this Post08-19-2013 03:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
thanks so much for that, i will check the routing!
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Report this Post08-19-2013 03:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

The shifter is not spring loaded. Check the routing of your cables....if they bend too much they will bind.


Are you sure? My shifters, when in Neutral, will spring back to the 3-4 gate when pulled to either the 1-2 gate or the 5-R gate, if you release the shifter knob. I just looked at a 4-speed shifter and it has a spring on the vertical pivot shaft for the shift cable.

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Report this Post08-19-2013 04:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well.......maybe I am not remembering right. I need to go looking for photos. There is a spring on reverse of course....but I'm not clear on the other stuff.

To the OP....make sure the cables stay away from the exhaust....they do melt.

Wow.....look at this!

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060206-1-052737.html

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 08-19-2013).]

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Report this Post08-19-2013 04:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I found one of my 5-speeds to be difficult to select side to side and discovered the select cable had been routed over the top of the firewall heat shield. This put a pretty good bend in it at the end. I disconnected it from the trans, re-routed it behind the heat shield and between the AC lines and firewall, bringing it in a more vertical line to attach to the transmission. Smoothed things out very well. If there are no springs on the shift mechanism, it may be that it's built into the transmission.
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4thfiero
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Report this Post08-19-2013 04:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So apperantly there IS a spring for the 5 speeds???
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Report this Post08-19-2013 05:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OK, so I just went out and took apart the console in my late 86 and my original 87. Both have the Getrag trans. Both have the shifter with the small spring shown in Gall757's link. There are no other springs on the assembly. When placed in Neutral, each shifter will spring back to a center 3-4 gate when pushed to the right or left.

So to determine where the spring was, I pulled the pin and detached the select (Small cable closest to the driver) cable and moved the shifter left to right. It flops around freely. With that, I am led to believe that on the Getrag, the spring is in the transmission. If the if the shifter fails to return to the 3-4 gate when in Neutral, then there may be some binding on the Select (Small) cable, or the Shift (Large) cable isn't adjusted correctly.
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Gall757
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Report this Post08-19-2013 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
According to that link, the isuzu had no spring, and the getrag did, but either shifter can be used with either transmission.....

What I recall is that if I disconnect the cables at the transmission, the shifter flops around like it has no springs......very unscientific analysis.

edit: and who knows which design the Fiero Store sells.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 08-19-2013).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post08-19-2013 06:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just started driving a 5-spd '88 Formula (as of last night) after acquiring it a couple weeks ago and putting a clutch etc in it.

The car is beautiful to drive ( I really like it!), but the shifter and/or shifting is terrible. I've never had this problem while driving a 5-spd Isuzu or a 4-spd Getrag.

It might just be that the select cable is a little stiff (after sitting for years), but I'm going to double-check the select cable routing after reading the following.

 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

I found one of my 5-speeds to be difficult to select side to side and discovered the select cable had been routed over the top of the firewall heat shield. This put a pretty good bend in it at the end. I disconnected it from the trans, re-routed it behind the heat shield and between the AC lines and firewall, bringing it in a more vertical line to attach to the transmission. Smoothed things out very well.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-19-2013).]

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Report this Post08-19-2013 06:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick, something that can cause a stiff select cable is due to the way it comes up from the bottom even if it's routed correctly. Once the rubber boot on the end of the cable deteriorates, rainwater can get down inside. The cable rusts and begins to fray. This can cause binding inside the sheath. I've heard of people constructing a replacement boot by using Tyvek, folded into several layers and sewn into a tube, then slipped over the end of the cable and sheath and held in place by a couple of cable ties.
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Report this Post08-19-2013 06:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick, when you get the cables sorted out you are really going to like the shifting too. When I got my Formula the select cable was bad and it needed new Synchromesh fluid. The shift cable was fine, but I didn't know that so I replaced them both with Rodney cables...then it shifted like a new car.
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Report this Post08-19-2013 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah, i discovered that the neutral spring is inside the tranny itself...im taking my car into my mechanic tomorrow with this new info...I have dickman cables and brand new everything...im hoping a few adjustments and we will be good to go...
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Report this Post08-19-2013 09:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can adjust the cables yourself and save some money. It's easy. Just set the parking brake, push in the clutch and put the car into 1st gear. Loosen and remove the nut from the ball stud on the end of the Shift cable. That's the cable that comes downward to the transmission. Once the cable is removed from the transmission lever, push the lever downward toward the rear of the car to be sure it's fully engaged into 1st. Replace the ball stud back into the transmission lever, replace and tighten the nut. The Shift transmission lever is the only one that has a slot and is the only one that's adjustable.
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Report this Post08-19-2013 10:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There is a spring that attaches to the pivot shaft and the base of the shifter weldment. It is a small storm-door style, and helps the shifter find neutral.
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Report this Post08-20-2013 02:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Patrick, something that can cause a stiff select cable is due to the way it comes up from the bottom even if it's routed correctly.


My buddy disconnected the cables before we swung the cradle down to change the clutch, so I never noticed which way they were supposed to be routed. Does the shift select cable come from behind the heat shield and curl up towards the tranny above the coolant pipe that angles across the front of the engine, or does the select cable actually go underneath that coolant pipe? I'm hoping you understand what I mean.

 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Once the rubber boot on the end of the cable deteriorates, rainwater can get down inside.


Perhaps different brands of cables are made differently, but there's no evidence of a rubber boot ever being on my select cable. (The shift cable has one.) The select cable actually moves easily enough when it's not attached, but when it's connected at both ends it definitely takes a little "oomph" to get the shifter over for 5th and/or reverse.

By disconnecting both ends of the select cable, I was able to pull the tranny end of the cable out enough to reveal a thinner part of the cable which allowed me to literally pour a small amount of quality oil down the insides. I'm hoping this will continue to work it's way down (since the cable points up) and allow the cable to slide a little easier.

 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

When I got my Formula the select cable was bad and it needed new Synchromesh fluid.


I just put 10w-30 engine oil in the tranny, as I didn't want to use relatively expensive Synchromesh fluid until I determined that the tranny was actually okay. (The last GT I bought/worked on, I discovered its 4-spd had no 2nd gear.) Except for the select cable offering more resistance than I'd like, the tranny actually shifts into each gear rather effortlessly (once the shifter is "lined up" properly). I may or may not bother with the Synchromesh fluid if the tranny continues to shift okay.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-20-2013).]

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Report this Post08-20-2013 08:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Patrick, something that can cause a stiff select cable is due to the way it comes up from the bottom even if it's routed correctly.


My buddy disconnected the cables before we swung the cradle down to change the clutch, so I never noticed which way they were supposed to be routed. Does the shift cable come from behind the heat shield and curl up towards the tranny above the coolant pipe that angles across the front of the engine, or does the select cable actually go underneath that coolant pipe? I'm hoping you understand what I mean.
The shift cable is the thicker of the cables and comes just under the throttle cam wheel and over the end of the crossover heat shield. The select cable runs behind the firewall heat shield over toward the drivers side, passes between the AC coolant line in a downward direction, then curves back up to attach to the transmission.

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Once the rubber boot on the end of the cable deteriorates, rainwater can get down inside.


Perhaps different brands of cables are made differently, but there's no evidence of a rubber boot ever being on my select cable. (The shift cable has one.) The select cable actually moves easily enough when it's not attached, but when it's connected at both ends it definitely takes a little "oomph" to get the shifter over for 5th and/or reverse.

By disconnecting both ends of the select cable, I was able to pull the tranny end of the cable out enough to reveal a thinner part of the cable which allowed me to literally pour a small amount of quality oil down the insides. I'm hoping this will continue to work it's way down (since the cable points up) and allow the cable to slide a little easier.

The factory cables had an accordian rubber boot on the end of the select cable. In time, they crack or completely fall away, allowing water to run down into the cable. The select cable isn't as subject to this because it's better located underneath the deck lid and it also points downward. It would have been best to put a very light oil into the cable. Some have used a small shop vac and inserted the cockpit end into the cable and taped the opening of the hose to make a good seal. Then they immerse the transmission end into their preferred light oil and turn on the vacuum. It will pull the oil into the cable. In your clime, I'd suggest using the lightest oil you could find. Possibly some of the 0 w 30 oil like Honda uses in some of its hybrid cars. In any case, it would be good to try to cover the end of the select cable since oil and water can make a gummy mess.
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

When I got my Formula the select cable was bad and it needed new Synchromesh fluid.


I just put 10w-30 engine oil in the tranny, as I didn't want to use relatively expensive Synchromesh fluid until I determined that the tranny was actually okay. (The last GT I bought/worked on, I discovered its 4-spd had no 2nd gear.) Except for the select cable offering more resistance than I'd like, the tranny actually shifts into each gear rather effortlessly (once the shifter is "lined up" properly). I may or may not bother with the Synchromesh fluid if the tranny continues to shift okay.

The early transmissions were filled with 5 w 30 oil at the factory and they later changed to the Synchromesh. 10 w 30 may cause premature bearing failure or synchronizer problems. If you want to use oil instead of Synchromesh, it may be best to go do the 5 w 30. To save some money on the Synchromesh, you can get the PennZoil Manual Transmission Oil at the auto parts stores. Down here AutoZone carries it. It's about half the price of what GM dealers charge for it and it's the same stuff, since PennZoil makes it for GM.

Try the alignment procedure I posted above to see if your side to side issues go away. If not, you probably have cable problems or your shifter mechanism may have cracked at its base.
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Patrick
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Report this Post08-20-2013 12:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

The early transmissions were filled with 5 w 30 oil at the factory and they later changed to the Synchromesh. 10 w 30 may cause premature bearing failure or synchronizer problems. If you want to use oil instead of Synchromesh, it may be best to go do the 5 w 30. To save some money on the Synchromesh, you can get the PennZoil Manual Transmission Oil at the auto parts stores. Down here AutoZone carries it. It's about half the price of what GM dealers charge for it and it's the same stuff, since PennZoil makes it for GM.


I was going by memory (bad decision!) and I thought it was supposed to be 10w-30 (which I had on hand). I suspect this weight oil is fine in the moderate climate here (especially in summer), but yeah, it might possibly be too "thick" for an Edmonton winter.

I've used the Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid in a couple of Isuzu 5-spd trannys previously, so I'll grab some for this Getrag as well.

 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

The shift cable is the thicker of the cables and comes just under the throttle cam wheel and over the end of the crossover heat shield. The select cable runs behind the firewall heat shield over toward the drivers side, passes between the AC coolant line in a downward direction, then curves back up to attach to the transmission.



I'm sorry, I screwed up when referring to the select cable. It's so easy to call it a "shift" cable!

Below is the same post, with the correction. I'm hoping you can now picture what I was trying to get at.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Does the shift select cable come from behind the heat shield and curl up towards the tranny above the coolant pipe that angles across the front of the engine, or does the select cable actually go underneath that coolant pipe (and then up towards the tranny)?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-20-2013).]

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Report this Post08-20-2013 12:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The select cable runs above the coolant tube. When I re-routed the one in this pic, I don't believe I could have passed it underneath and still had enough length to attach it. You can see the coolant tube running downward to the left at about a 45 degree angle. If you're concerned about it getting too close to the coolant pipe, there's a bracket that you can see just to the left of the end of the insulation wrap. You can cable tie the select cable to it. One benefit of being closer to the coolant tube during winter is that if you do get water into the cable, the engine heat will very quickly thaw the ice to allow the cable to move. The water will pond in that low spot of the cable, just above the coolant tube.

If you look closely, you can also see the accordian style rubber boot on the end of the sheath.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 08-20-2013).]

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Report this Post08-20-2013 01:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

The select cable runs above the coolant tube. When I re-routed the one in this pic, I don't believe I could have passed it underneath and still had enough length to attach it.


Okay, that's great. Thanks for all the advice.
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Report this Post11-01-2013 03:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey guys.....resurrecting an old issue...my shitfting in my car sucks...brand new tranny 5 speed getrag out of a 91 sunbird, using dickmans conversion kit and cables. cables were originally not routed correctly. made it super stiff to shift. shifting is a little looser now, but still not good!

Took it to Mister Transmission...they looked at it, everything on the tranny end seems good...but they said my shifter seems to be bad for some reason...its tight and stiff...got a new shifter from fiero store...it is a 5 speed getrag shifter...does ANYONE have any other ideas...or perhaps a spare shifter i can buy from them to test out?
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Report this Post11-01-2013 03:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you get a chance you should drive another getrag car. They will never shift like what you can buy now....(lucky for us!)

That said, it should be easy to troubleshoot your problem. Does the shifter move easily with nothing attached? Does it move easily with the cables attached, but only on the shifter end? Do the levers move easily on the transmission with nothing attached? OK, put it back together and it should move the same way. IF the cables were routed wrong for a while you may have a melted spot on the cable or a kink.....
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Report this Post11-01-2013 03:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bah!...i hope not a kink...i'll try that out.

The shifter moves free when cables are not attached but if the bolts and nuts holding it together and loose...:S That doesnt seem right
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Report this Post11-01-2013 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Can anyone show me HOW these cables are supposed to be routed? Im thinking that maybe the cables are still routed incorrectly...i have them coming from the shifter going UNDER the skeleton console...into the firewall...then to the tranny. Removing the cables from the shifter assembly lets the shifter move free np...if i move the lever on the tranny? everythings good, it MUST be the cables or the routing of...Can anyone (ESPECIALLY users of dickmans shift conversion kit) pls verify how to route these cables correctly
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Report this Post11-01-2013 05:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Report this Post11-01-2013 05:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey, thanks, i did find that online, but it doesnt show me little things, like...those wedge like clips? that hold the cables to the brackets on the shifter end? do they go infront of the bracket/ towards the shifter? or away from the bracket? Does it make a difference? Im gonna take a pics of my cables tomorrow for everyone to see.
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Report this Post11-01-2013 07:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TKSend a Private Message to TKEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 4thfiero:

Hey guys.....resurrecting an old issue...my shitfting in my car sucks...brand new tranny 5 speed getrag out of a 91 sunbird, using dickmans conversion kit and cables. cables were originally not routed correctly. made it super stiff to shift. shifting is a little looser now, but still not good!

Took it to Mister Transmission...they looked at it, everything on the tranny end seems good...but they said my shifter seems to be bad for some reason...its tight and stiff...got a new shifter from fiero store...it is a 5 speed getrag shifter...does ANYONE have any other ideas...or perhaps a spare shifter i can buy from them to test out?



Here is something to check. Disconnect each cable at the trans and shifter. Then move each cable and make sure they move smoothly. As said, tight bents do cause some drag but they should still be pretty easy to move when disconnected at both ends.

Next, connect them at the shifter only. Now go to the trans and check their rotation. Correctly made cables will not need to be rotated to put the bolts in the holes on the levers (or snap the socket over the ball.) The will be in the right position.

If you have to rotate them, they weren't made right. Depending on which way you rotate them, the spiral of the wires will either expand and drag on the sleeve inside and eventually start to get sticky or you will have rotated the spiral so it tightens and it stiffens up causing it to drag. I had to toss two cables for this reason. When they crimped the ends they didn't bother to clock them correctly. They worked pretty good at first (not great) but quickly got sticky. Factory cables drop right into the holes without any rotation being needed.

Worth checking.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 11-01-2013).]

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Report this Post11-02-2013 08:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Alright, I will check that, thanks guys...i'll report back with some pics that will hopfeully help...also new symptom..

When driving, SOMETIMES...my car wont wanna go into certain gears, mostly 2nd and reverse...if i shift slow? Then I can get her into gear more freq...but if i shift quick/normal speed...forget it, 3rd gear seems okay 100% of the time, but the others are iffy...it didnt come OUT of adjustment...im not sure whats going on! I turn the car on, go into reverse...that worked...then later down the road, i cant reverse anymore.
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Report this Post11-03-2013 09:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is the revised cable routing for this transmission http://www.meisners.net/fiero/TSB/TSB88714.htm

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Report this Post11-04-2013 09:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So would this map be accurate with the dickman cables and conversion kit too? Does anyone or CAN anyone out of the awesomeness of there hearts take pics of hos there cables are routed right now? ESPECIALLY if you have the dickman conversion kit for the 5 speed getrag. But ppl who dont i would love to see how the cables are routed from the shifter, down to the center consol into the firewall...that would help out huge if i can see where they lie, and if there's any retainer brackets...ect...Im sure my issue probably lies there. Thanks again guys, everyone from this forum is super helpful!

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Report this Post11-06-2013 01:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Anyone?...
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Report this Post11-06-2013 05:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Okay...so i just took everything apart again, i disconnected the cables from the tranny end first...the select cable moves the shifter np...nice and easy, the select cable was stiff...i can move the shift lever on the tranny back and forth just fine.

So i disconnected the select cable on both ends, and pulled it from the tranny end, it moved more freely but still not up to spec with the select cable. Its acting like its not routed correctly...i still need to go under the car to check but...i dont see how its not routed correctly. no tight bends. I have some pics i took of where everything is sitting right now. Hope it helps...i'll post them soon.
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Report this Post11-07-2013 06:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Okay before i posted the pics, i took my shifter out of my car, used dickman's kit to rebuild it, checked the routing of all my cable, routing was fine, cable can be pulled on each end np when not hooked up to anything, when hooked to shifter, select cable can move shifter np. Select cable is a little stiff. when hooking everythign back up, it seems to move a bit better, and i can put it into all the gears now. 1st gear is MUCH easier to attain, but my side to side action is still not what i would expect.

When i move the tranny end side to side, its perfectly fine. So im completely stumped now...
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