Hi. First time post , long time lurking... I dragged home an 85 gt that I rescued from a guys garage where it had been siting for 15+ years, tucked away from daylight... My question is this.... What should I look out for when going through it and before first startup?
Empty the fuel tank for sure if there's anything in it. If there is I'd also check the condition of the fuel pump and sending unit. Once its emptied and refueled I'd purge as much of the fuel rail you can to get any old gas out of it you can as well. Check the tries for cracks and deterioration since even good tires die if they sit too long. I'd also give it a basic tune up.. plugs wires dist cap and rotor. Look over the brake system and make sure the rotors aren't all rusted. Personally I'd out new pads at the least on it. There's quite a list of other things you should check just for precautionary reasons. Ball joints, wheel bearings, suspension.. lift the car up and pull on the tires and make sure everything still feels tight. I'm sure I'm missing something but you get the point
You'll probably need calipers. Fiero calipers are famous for locking up. (They have phenolic pistons that like to swell.) I'd probably go ahead and change them, anyway.
Before you crank it at all, remove the spark plugs and squirt a bit of oil (some suggest ATF, but I'm open to suggestion, here) into all the cylinders. Let it sit for a couple of days, and then turn it over.
Originally posted by Raydar: Before you crank it at all, remove the spark plugs and squirt a bit of oil (some suggest ATF, but I'm open to suggestion, here) into all the cylinders. Let it sit for a couple of days, and then turn it over.
If you do this, do not use a penetrating oil, use a small amount of 5W-30.
Ok. I may have screwed up a little.....i turned it over when I first put a battery in with the coil disconnected to see if it would, but I didn't fire it up. I guess I'll find out the hard way to ask first! The p.o. supplied new ball joints, rotors, calipers, tie rod ends, window dew wipes, sun roof gasket.....etc... He had hopes, but lost interest....
Plan on engine rebuild (if not just to replace all the seals), if its an auto...trans rebuild (same on seals), and complete brake job with new parts. Then....after thats all done, you can start any cosmetic issues.
The engine is probably fine internally, and what I mean by that is I doubt any damage has occurred from it sitting so long. We just got my friends 81 cj7 project started, fired up first try once we got the engine fuel and spark. It had been sitting over 10 years. But at the minimum change your oil.
Check rubber things for cracks and deterioration. The calipers may be Ok but definitely get some rebuild kits to replace all those old seals. I would recommend new pads and rotors for sure.
The slave cylinder can give up on you when these sit for a while, they rust on the inside.
Tires are probably bad.
Check your wheel bearings for any weird sounds, If I were you I might just go ahead and replace them, but they are probably fine.
And change all of your fluids. If you want you can prime your oil pump and lube the bearings just to make sure that you are making oil pressure and nothing is wrong with the oiling system, because if there is problems and you start your engine... Well it won't be running long. I might just go ahead and change the oil pump.
How are you guys posting pics? I can't figure it out.... It's got a 4 speed manual, so at least I won't have to worry about bad shifts....although the p.o. complained about shifting and clutch problems...i found right away that the cables where way off adjustment. Now, it will sink into every gear smoothly. I bled the clutch slave already.....sooooo I'll find out about the clutch when I fire I fire it up. I won't have any problems with cosmetics...it's been tucked away, so it has it's original clearcoat shine on....just some fade on the tail spoiler and a spot where it got hit with a stray blowtorch.....the wheels, however, need sanded and refinished. The depth of experience and knowledge in this forum is amazing! I only hope I can pace myself, so my head won't explode!
Good luck with the project. I've resurrected two other Fieros that hadn't run for years, and this past weekend I picked up an '88 Formula that sat in the forest for a couple years. Dead fuel pump, no spark, "tar" in the crankcase, exploded clutch disc... but it's coming along.
First get PIP Pennocks Image Poster. YOU WILL FIND IT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE-THE RED & BLUE BOX. Once that has been downloaded and run run the profile for Pennocks. Make sure the pics are not too big in size. There are 3 buttons 1) Browse, 2) Post it, and 3) History Browse will let you do just that on your computer so you can find the picture you want. When that picture is chosen(you will see it in the preview box on the PIP) then click Post it, you will get a pop-up box saying 'Uploading Image' when it is done click OK. Then click the history button. That will show you the pics you have earmarked for uploading. Double click on the box under the picture with the name in it. There is a text box at the bottom that says 'Clipboard Contents' I copy that and paste it into the text of my forum post where I wish it to be like I did with the neat pic below--(this is not my trailer or car!).
I hope that is clear enough, if anyone wants to chime in and touch up my instructions feel free to do so.
[This message has been edited by hcforde (edited 07-31-2013).]
Thanks for the pip info....however, I've moved on to android and completely required the pc and mac...fortunately..... Alternately, looks like I can save pics on the web somewhere and provide a link address and the image function will pick it up? Interesting trailer...possibly pissed a few notch back guys off...ha.
Thats how I do it. I always had issues with the Poster. Nicest thing I like about hosting them somewhere else, is I can take them off anytime I want. If you use the Poster, its there for eternity. I use Picture Trail for mine...its free hosting and storage.
Nicest thing I like about hosting them somewhere else, is I can take them off anytime I want. If you use the Poster, its there for eternity.
And how is that a problem, unless you're posting images of your (ex)girlfriend?
This is a car forum. I don't see a problem of posted car images staying up "for eternity". When they disappear in a tech thread, the thread often becomes useless.
If you can't use PIP for whatever reason, use This instead. Same server as PIP, and images won't disappear. Sorry Roger.
My car sat for about 20 years. It's an 84 2M4 with 4 speed manual.
I had to replace fuel pump and filter, clean the fuel tank. Replaced calipers, rotors, pads, rubber hoses and parking brake. New alternator and belt. New tires. Plugs and wires. Oil change. Coolant flush.
I drive the car every day. It runs great and drives better than great.
If you do this, do not use a penetrating oil, use a small amount of 5W-30.
You can get a can of fogging oil at most auto supply places. It is intended for storing engines to prevent seizure, but it works also freeing up rings if you spray it in the top of each cylinder.
Allot depends on the dryness of the garage it was stored in. I don't know how damp garages get in Georgia, but if it is dry it will help allot. Usually the grease fittings dry out. Unhooking and re-assembly with fresh grease is not a bad idea.
Getting the old gas out is probably needed, but you never know if it was stored properly with Stabil or some other gas preservative in the lines. If it was not full of gas, the inside of the tank may have allot of rust though.
I'd also check for mice nests.
Like the man says, the tires can fool you with dry rot but again, you might get lucky.
There are many times I wouldnt want to leave a pic up for years. Maybe I put on a licence plate I didnt want to show, my house, or yes a gfs pic. Maybe I just clicked on, and posted the wrong picture. Sure you might go in an edit it out, but if someone quotes you first including it, its too late. No matter, I still like the option of being able to remove it.
If it starts after the above mentioned items are taken care of but cuts out now and then, you probably had corroded sensor connectors. Re-seating them help for a short term fix. If it idles high, your injector rubber O rings have dried up. A cheep fix but a lil PIA. One other thing, don't get any of that old gas on ya. It stinks like all hell. Been there done that! Good luck with the project.
There are many times I wouldnt want to leave a pic up for years. Maybe I put on a licence plate I didnt want to show, my house, or yes a gfs pic. Maybe I just clicked on, and posted the wrong picture. Sure you might go in an edit it out, but if someone quotes you first including it, its too late. No matter, I still like the option of being able to remove it.
It's too late to matter now roger, type the right wrong thing on the internet without pictures and "the people" will come to your house, not in person though, they'll send a drone. Funny how our society is starting to remind me more and more of science fiction movies I've seen back when they were fiction.
Yes, the old gas stinks to high heaven.....and burns too! Left some on my arm for about 30mins..then I ran to the water to rinse it off....much stronger than gas now days. I dropped the tank....clean/no rust...no water in the bottom, installed new fuel pump and filter, turned on ignition and pump sounded like a jack hammer! I've got two gallons in it now, but I can't get fuel up to the fuel rail...how many times do I need to cycle the ignition to get fuel primed? I think you weren't watching scifi....you where looking at the future...you just didn't realize it until the future was now.
Yes, the old gas stinks to high heaven.....and burns too! Left some on my arm for about 30mins..then I ran to the water to rinse it off....much stronger than gas now days. I dropped the tank....clean/no rust...no water in the bottom, installed new fuel pump and filter, turned on ignition and pump sounded like a jack hammer! I've got two gallons in it now, but I can't get fuel up to the fuel rail...how many times do I need to cycle the ignition to get fuel primed? I think you weren't watching scifi....you where looking at the future...you just didn't realize it until the future was now.
Pull the fuel line and see if it's clogged? Ours was gunked up bad! Took some level 2 intuition to get it cleared. Any gas that made it past the filter and not to the rail stayed in that line all those years.
edited for dang typo.
edit, edit...About half way down page 2 in the linked thread I posted in my early post you will see our fuel line clog removal kit! Good luck!
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 08-02-2013).]
Wow! My gas tank and lines look nothing like that! It looked like someone poured sugar in the tank and cooked it! I've never fuel tar up like that before! I will disconnect and blow the lines through...and run the pressure line into a bucket, just to make sure the new pump isn't the problem...it may be just me, i'm approaching this from a gingerly angle. I don't know why, but I am. My wife if jealous already! Which reminds me....should I give her a name? (the car)
That's a great looking starting point! Paint looks good from here and the body panels look really straight. Did I miss where you posted how many miles on the odo? Any progress??
edit to add F85gtron you have a PM.
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 08-04-2013).]
Shes got about 85k on her clock... No progress lately, as I've been over the road this week. But when I get back...IT'S ON! I've got brake hoses in and all I need is to install front shocks, diy alignment, change oil, and get it started....then the real fun begins...finding all the gremlins in the motor! I don't anticipate too much trouble...the p.o. didn't complain about the motor...just the shifting/clutch....
I haven't got very far lately....i ran into a problem with the fuel pump I installed. A fresh install and it amherst seized! I traced voltage and ohms down the circuit through the relay and all the way to the pump, dropped the tank and tested there too...the new pump was a dudd. That will teach me to bench test before install! Now, i'm trying to source a couple tank straps and bolts to replace the ones I ruined cutting off the old ones... I found some at the Fiero Store....just wondering if they have quality stuff?
Update: I installed the fuel pump, used it to pump out a couple gallons to lighten up the tank before I heave it up into the car...worked well. Installed the tank, installed the battery, primed and bled the fuel system....went for a victory crank, and NOTHING! Sooooo disappointing! It cranks, I spell fuel in the tail pipes, bunch-o-pressure at the shrader valve. I'm thinking spark? If I throw some starter fluid at it and it doesn't have spark, it won't fire up, right? And if it fires right up, then I could suspect injectors and intake? Does that sound right?
Originally posted by f85gtron: It cranks, I spell fuel in the tail pipes, bunch-o-pressure at the shrader valve. I'm thinking spark? If I throw some starter fluid at it and it doesn't have spark, it won't fire up, right? And if it fires right up, then I could suspect injectors and intake? Does that sound right?
The pressure at the shrader valve reads what exaclty? Should read 40-47psi. Too high above could mean a pinched/clogged return line or a bad fuel pressure regulator.
No spark=will not ignite any fuel, so throwing starter fluid will do nothing if you have no spark.
The next place I'd look at is definitely spark.
------------------ Ben 87 GT / 88 GT 84 Indy #1863
10-4, copy that.. I'll throw some starter fluid at it when I get home and see what happens. I don't know what the pressure is. When the valve is opened, fuel shoots almost 3/4 to the deck lid. Thats my measurement...
Originally posted by f85gtron: I don't know what the pressure is. When the valve is opened, fuel shoots almost 3/4 to the deck lid. Thats my measurement...
ROFL. Well, I wouldn't worry about the fuel pressure until you've checked for spark.
I got home, starting fluid in hand, ready to shoot and crank, then the battery is dead. Ugh! I pulled the battery to charge and decided to test the ignition components. The pickup coil tested good, but the ignition coil did not test out good...so it would seem that's my problem... Also, I have a couple questions: How do i test the ignition module? And...
What does this ground lead join to? It's attached behind the air cleaner, along the wheel well....
And was this FOLDERS in my cup? - or BRIM to my rim?
Test Description:Step numbers refer to step numbers on diagnostic chart.
1. Two wires are checked, to ensure that an open is not present in a spark plug wire.
1A. If spark occurs with 4 terminal distributor connector disconnected, pick-up coil output is too low for EST operation.
2. A spark indicates the problem must be the distributor cap or rotor.
3. Normally, there should be battery voltage at the"C" and" +" terminals. Low voltage would indicate an open or a high resistance circuit from the distributor to the coil or ignition switch. If "C" term. voltage was low, but" +" term. voltage is 10 volts or more, circuit from "C" term. to ignition coil or ignition coil primary winding is open.
4. Checks for a shorted module or grounded circuit from the ignition coil to the module. The distributor module should be turned "OFF", so normal voltage should be about 12 volts. If the module is turned "ON", the voltage would be low, but above 1 volt. This could cause the ignition oil to fail from excessive heat.
With an open ignition coil primary winding, a small amount of voltage will leak through the module from the "Bat." to the tach terminal.
5. Applying a voltage 0.5 to 8 volts) to module terminal "P" should turn the module "ON" and the tach. term. voltage should drop to about 7-9 volts. This test will determine whether the module or coil is faulty or if the pick-up coil is not generating the proper signal to turn the module "ON". This test can be performed by using a DCbattery with a rating of 1.5 to 8 volts. The use of the test light is mainly to allow the "P" terminal to be probed more easily.
Some digital multi-meters can also be used to trigger the module by selecting ohms, usually the diode position. In this position the meter may have a voltage across it's terminals which can be used to trigger the module. The voltage in the ohm's position can be checked by using a second meter or by checking the manufacture's specification of the tool being used.
6. This should turn "OFF" the module and cause a spark. If no spark occurs, the fault is most likely in the ignition coil because most module problems would have been found before this point in the procedure. A module tester (J24642) could determine which is at fault.
