When I got the car the engine was seized, do to a piston rusted in a cylinder. I tried everything. In the end I had to remove it, it would only budge with my air hammer. And no I did not re-use it, I just got a replacement. Yes there's a good chance it's not the same weight etc.. I just want the car gone, and can't afford a whole engine

so you're trying to Glue it together and pass it off as "running" ?

I would never, I'm doing it as right as I can. I wouldn't sell it unless it ran good.

OK, where does it stand as of right now ? If it was me, I'd at least pull ALL the caps (keeping them in order) and make sure ALL the "Tangs" on both the main and the rods ARE both on the same sides. All the rods are facing in the correct direction, then, 1 at a time, install a CAP Mains first, after each one, try to turn the crank Just about a 1/4 inch then back, move on to the next one. Did you "CHECK" to see if you had the "Right Size piston"? ( Pistons Cannot Rust, they are made of Aluminum, the Rings Rust to the cylinderwall) Remember, EVERYTHING Must be perfectly Clean. What are you using for "Assembly lube" ? STP is fine if you don't have anything else. If you're still having problems, ask. I'll walk you through it.

quote Originally posted by IanT720: ... a piston rusted in a cylinder. I tried everything.

For future reference: Soak the rings for several days with a rust-buster like PB Blaster. A mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid also works pretty well. Then put some dry ice on top of the piston. The aluminum piston will shrink away from the cylinder walls as it chills, and it will usually slide right out. If you have to apply force to the head of a piston, use a wood block that roughly matches the shape of the piston face to cushion and spread the force. A piece of 2x4 will usually do. If you use a hammer to apply force, either use a wood block or use the end of the (wooden) handle to contact the head of the piston, rather than striking the piston with the head of the hammer.

Another good suggestion is to place short pieces of rubber tubing over the rod bolts while installing a piston/rod assembly into its cylinder bore. This will both help guide the rods into place and help prevent inadvertently gouging or scratching the crankshaft journals in the process.

quote I ... can't afford a whole engine

A used but serviceable engine may be your best (and cheapest) alternative at this point. It would probably help if you can find someone nearby with more experience to mentor you. There's no shame in that. We've all been there with your level of knowledge at some point in our gearhead history.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 08-01-2013).]

the first time I rebuilt a 2.8 I had put on some of the connecting rod caps on backwards, made everything HARD to turn...
check them!!!

Oh my, oh my,,,. I've read this entire post and my jaw is on the ground. Rust particles on bearings, rusty piston, breaker bars and impact hammers, Oh my God... ! I'm not going to sleep well tonight just thinking about this.

Your situation is grim but if you somehow beat the odds with a successful startup, please bolt a plate of steel behind your drivers seat. All I can think of is a piston, possibly all 3 on the forward bank, flying thru the bulkhead into unchartered territory. This could be a very dangerous situation.

I know a person that put 3 bolts in an incorrect flywheel on a 67 GTO using an open end wrench. Same school of thought.

On the other hand I do admire your ambition and determination in wanting to get this job completed. I wish I could assist you or perhaps one of the other members could. Do be careful and good luck.

Sincere regards,

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

Well guys I kind of stopped dreaming and actually bought another Fiero, this one runs perfect just doesn't look to hot. So I'm going to swap the body, and when I sell the parts I should get all my money back too... Maybe even keep this 2.8 and do a complete rebuild, sense I bought most of the parts anyway, and I might aswell learn how to completely rebuild an engine, instead of the "backyard" way. Thanks for the help, I'm sure I will be asking for more of it, when I start cracking on it again.

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