When I bought my Fiero, the person I bought it from said the A/C compressor needed to be replaced, but Ive checked it and it will turn? Also my AC system needs to be converted. Does anybody know the easiest way to do this?
Best place to begin is to check the high and low side pressures with a gauge set. If the pressures are zero, take out the orifice tube and examine it carefully to see the health of the system.
With no voltage applied to the clutch coil, the pulley should always spin easily unless the bearing is shot. If you apply 12V across the coil, it takes a lot of effort to turn it.
Just because the compressor will TURN, doesn't mean it's any good. It may leak like a "sieve". Before doing anything, Draw a vacuum in the system, walk away fot the day. check it in about 12 hours to see if it still is holding the vacuum. if yes, well great. if no, you have to locate the leak. (easiest way is to just drive it to a shop), they will "Usually" check for leaks for Free.
I replaced my compressor, did a vacuum test and found a leak at the high schrader. Fixed that and it held 20lbs for a day. Bought a conversion kit at Advance auto, now blows 34 degree air.
**** I've been to a few mechanic shops to try and get it looked at, they all want to charge 50-100 dollars to look at it.
Is there equipment I can buy for not much or rent to do this myself? I need to: •replace the a/c compressor (most likely) •convert the r12 system to the new system •put a full size belt on it after it is fixed
I have a 1986 fiero gt, v6 engine. It has been rebuilt if that matters. Right now there is no belt around the compressor but it turns.
When the A/C is called for, the clutch kicks on and holds the pulley to the internals of the compressor, which pumps the R12 (in your case). When the A/C is off, the pulley spins free, which is what is happening to you. The only way to test it is to put on a belt and engage the compressor clutch (I believe you can do this by jumping the plug on the accumulator in the front compartment). Anyway, just because the pulley turns, it doesn't mean the compressor will turn. Has there ever been a belt on the compressor? If not, it probably locked up and burnt up the belt.
When the A/C is called for, the clutch kicks on and holds the pulley to the internals of the compressor, which pumps the R12 (in your case). When the A/C is off, the pulley spins free, which is what is happening to you. The only way to test it is to put on a belt and engage the compressor clutch (I believe you can do this by jumping the plug on the accumulator in the front compartment). Anyway, just because the pulley turns, it doesn't mean the compressor will turn. Has there ever been a belt on the compressor? If not, it probably locked up and burnt up the belt.
Not since I have had it and Im not sure the last owner ever had one on it the person told me that the compressor didnt work, that's about it.
When the A/C is called for, the clutch kicks on and holds the pulley to the internals of the compressor, which pumps the R12 (in your case). When the A/C is off, the pulley spins free, which is what is happening to you. The only way to test it is to put on a belt and engage the compressor clutch (I believe you can do this by jumping the plug on the accumulator in the front compartment). Anyway, just because the pulley turns, it doesn't mean the compressor will turn. Has there ever been a belt on the compressor? If not, it probably locked up and burnt up the belt.
Say I put a belt around the compressor and try to start the engine, if the compressor is locked up, what will happen when I turn on the a/c? Will it just or will it twist the belt off?
Say I put a belt around the compressor and try to start the engine, if the compressor is locked up, what will happen when I turn on the a/c? Will it just or will it twist the belt off?
If there's no freon in the system the compressor will not kick on. Unless you jumper the pressure switch that's on the accumulator. Regardless, you are not going to get a complete diagnosis doing this and could end up frying a dry compressor. If it hasn't been running for years, the seals and compressor are going to be bone dry. At minimum, you need a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. If you look online, you can usually find coupons for them. You need to use the gauges to see if the system is empty. IF empty, need to pull a vacuum to see if the system will hold that vacuum. Pointless troubleshooting without doing these steps first.
Eric the car Guy gives good advice in his videos: https://ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-hvac-problems?start=2#FindingACLeaks
When I converted my system to 134a, these were the steps I took:
1. Replace ALL O-rings in the system. The black O-rings are most likely not compatible with the new refrigerant. 2. Replace the Accumulator. The oil and debris from the system will collect in the bottom and is IMPOSSIBLE to completely clean out. It's just a safer way to go. 3. Flush the system. I disconnected all connections and using a tank connected to the air compressor, I was able to blow the cleaner through all pipes in both directions. The cleaner I used is available on the internet and at local parts stores ( don't remember the name right now). It does not leave any residues but cleans out the mineral oil from the R-12. 4. Drain as much of the oil out of the compressor as possible. Trace amount will not affect the performance of the system. 5. Replace the orifice tube. It acts like a filter for the system and will probably be gunked up if there was any issues with the compressor. 6. Reassemble the system and pull a vacuum for at least 12 hours. If you can hold the vacuum for that long, it should be good. 7. With the first can of 143a, make sure to use one that adds back the oil to the system and the dye colorant to show any leaks. The compatible oil I believe is PEG-100. It should take about 2-1/2 cans to put the system to a full charge. Review the ambient temperature/system chart.
When working with the open connections, ALWAYS be sure to cover the open ends with a barrier to prevent debris from entering the tubes if you need to leave them open for aany length of time.. I used Nitrile glove fingers over the ends with a rubber band to seal it up.
I bought the vacuum pump and gauges from HFT and they do the job. Don't bother with the cheapo venturi vacuum device. It won't pull a hard enough vacuum.
I may not have a walk through but the general bullet points are there. I've been running my a/c for the last 3 AZ summers and have had ice cold air while everyone else was still sweating. YMMV. Good lick.
I have a similar issue too. What I am wondering is about the replacement compressors you see online. Is it a safe bet that they are r134?
If it's an HR6 compressor, it will work with R134 as is, but will need to adjust or replace the cycle switch on the accumulator. If it's a V5 compressor (87-88 4-cylinder Fieros), you will have to replace the control valve in the compressor.
When I converted my system to 134a, these were the steps I took:
1. Replace ALL O-rings in the system. The black O-rings are most likely not compatible with the new refrigerant. 2. Replace the Accumulator. The oil and debris from the system will collect in the bottom and is IMPOSSIBLE to completely clean out. It's just a safer way to go. 3. Flush the system. I disconnected all connections and using a tank connected to the air compressor, I was able to blow the cleaner through all pipes in both directions. The cleaner I used is available on the internet and at local parts stores ( don't remember the name right now). It does not leave any residues but cleans out the mineral oil from the R-12. 4. Drain as much of the oil out of the compressor as possible. Trace amount will not affect the performance of the system. 5. Replace the orifice tube. It acts like a filter for the system and will probably be gunked up if there was any issues with the compressor. 6. Reassemble the system and pull a vacuum for at least 12 hours. If you can hold the vacuum for that long, it should be good. 7. With the first can of 143a, make sure to use one that adds back the oil to the system and the dye colorant to show any leaks. The compatible oil I believe is PEG-100. It should take about 2-1/2 cans to put the system to a full charge. Review the ambient temperature/system chart.
When working with the open connections, ALWAYS be sure to cover the open ends with a barrier to prevent debris from entering the tubes if you need to leave them open for aany length of time.. I used Nitrile glove fingers over the ends with a rubber band to seal it up.
I bought the vacuum pump and gauges from HFT and they do the job. Don't bother with the cheapo venturi vacuum device. It won't pull a hard enough vacuum.
I may not have a walk through but the general bullet points are there. I've been running my a/c for the last 3 AZ summers and have had ice cold air while everyone else was still sweating. YMMV. Good lick.
~Trevor
thanks man. this should help a lot! looks like i have a lot of work to get to haha
If there's no freon in the system the compressor will not kick on. Unless you jumper the pressure switch that's on the accumulator. Regardless, you are not going to get a complete diagnosis doing this and could end up frying a dry compressor. If it hasn't been running for years, the seals and compressor are going to be bone dry. At minimum, you need a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. If you look online, you can usually find coupons for them. You need to use the gauges to see if the system is empty. IF empty, need to pull a vacuum to see if the system will hold that vacuum. Pointless troubleshooting without doing these steps first.
Eric the car Guy gives good advice in his videos: https://ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-hvac-problems?start=2#FindingACLeaks
alright thanks for the help i appreciate it. i looked up those tools on their website and the gauge set was about 60 bucks and the vacuum was 15, not too bad
3. Flush the system. I disconnected all connections and using a tank connected to the air compressor, I was able to blow the cleaner through all pipes in both directions. The cleaner I used is available on the internet and at local parts stores ( don't remember the name right now). It does not leave any residues but cleans out the mineral oil from the R-12.
i went and got the parts to test the a/c today, and ive been planning how im going to do this, and after thinking about it i think it would be better to convert it all to r134 first and then figure out what is wrong with the compressor and whatever else
