When i bought my Fiero, which was a couple weeks ago, the person I bought it from said the lock actuators needed to be replaced. So recently I went up to Oreillys and bought two actuators. I took the door panel off and found the actuator, but i couldn't take it out because circular little bolts holding it in that i had no idea how to get out, so I just put it all back together.
Has anyone replaced the lock actuators and knows how to get them out? Do I need to take apart the entire door or can i just work around it?
This would be a big help. Thanks
ALSO: Does anyone know of a good brand of lock actuator to buy? I've tried dorman twice and both times they were'nt strong enough. I took off the door panels and sprayed them all down with liquid wrench. After I did that the passenger side locks worked fine (they are stock actuators) but the drivers side which i replaced still wouldn't work. The first time I replaced it the locks weren't strong enough to do lock it or unlock it, but the second time i swapped it out they would unlock but not lock. Any Ideas?
[This message has been edited by JT.86FieroGT (edited 07-23-2013).]
You will need to punch out rivets, then drill off the head (alum rivets). The horz. bar near the lock solenoid will need to be removed, then you can get the solenoid out by drilling out those rivets that hold it to the door (really the bracket).
Those circular little bolts you're referring to are actually rivets. You have to drill them out to remove the solenoid. Unless you have access to a rivet gun and those large rivets, install the new solenoids with nuts, bolts and some good lock washers.
While you're in the door. Remove and throughly clean the door latch mechanism. Use a can of brake cleaner or something else to get all of the gunk out of it. In my case, cleaning the lock mechanism was all that was needed to get the power locks working again. Prior to that, the actuators didn't have enough power to move the lock rods enough to fully lock or unlock the door.
Those circular little bolts you're referring to are actually rivets. You have to drill them out to remove the solenoid. Unless you have access to a rivet gun and those large rivets, install the new solenoids with nuts, bolts and some good lock washers.
While you're in the door. Remove and throughly clean the door latch mechanism. Use a can of brake cleaner or something else to get all of the gunk out of it. In my case, cleaning the lock mechanism was all that was needed to get the power locks working again. Prior to that, the actuators didn't have enough power to move the lock rods enough to fully lock or unlock the door.
When i took the door panel off all i saw was a metal rod which lead from the door latch to the lock actuator and another that bent around in the other direction
Where specifically do i need to clean and how should i clean it? I think i have the same problem as you did
pop them out of their plastic holders, clean them up and then lube any connections. There is also a rotational connection, clean that up also and lube.
[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 07-19-2013).]
I personally wouldn't lube them with anything - lube attracts dirt.
I have cleaned mine up about 6 years ago (including the latch assembly) - no lube, work like new to this day. Cleaning the rods/etc help, but I think most of the problems lay within the latch assembly being dirty and all caked up with dirt and dried up grease. I removed them from the door and soaked them in solvent and tossed them into an ultrasonic cleaner afterwards for extra measure (that last part might have been over kill).
...but that is just me....
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 07-19-2013).]
When i took the door panel off all i saw was a metal rod which lead from the door latch to the lock actuator and another that bent around in the other direction
Where specifically do i need to clean and how should i clean it? I think i have the same problem as you did
Thanks, JT
one of the rods probably works the lock and the other the door handle. as a first try, you might just spray WD40 on the black plastic dime-size guides where the rods are held to the door, and also into the latch levers inside the end of the door.
Be Aware - if the lock is in the LOCKED position, the door Will Not open when you pull the inside door handle ! Don't remove the rod or something and get locked inside the car
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 07-20-2013).]
Be Aware - if the lock is in the LOCKED position, the door Will Not open when you pull the inside door handle ! Don't remove the rod or something and get locked inside the car
just heard a 911 call this week of a woman trapped in her car, the 911 operator ask her if her door was locked. she said how do i know, operator said youd be trapped in your car and the door wouldnt open. then you hear (click) "oh Jesus" Ha Ha. so it Does happen!!!! just dont call 911 when it does. lol
[This message has been edited by dematrix86gt (edited 07-20-2013).]
hey man, sorry for the late reply. the mechanism im referring to is the entire door latch assembly. The latch that hold the door closed. If you look at the rearmost edge of the door you will see three torx screws. look inside the door, take photo if necessary to remember where everything goes. Then remove the three torx screws. Remove the assembly and scrub it clean. You'll be amazed at how much gunk is built-up inside there. All of that built-up gunk limits the movement of the rods connected to the lock actuators. This is usually why a Fiero requires 3-4 pushes of the lock button to get the door to actually lock.