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ball joints.. by FireGirl
Started on: 07-10-2013 11:36 PM
Replies: 4 (571 views)
Last post by: FireGirl on 07-11-2013 10:35 PM
FireGirl
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Report this Post07-10-2013 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FireGirlSend a Private Message to FireGirlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So last year I replaced the front right side upper and lower ball joints. Now I want to do the left side (I know you should do things in pairs, I got lazy) and I can't remember or find the threads on how to do it. I remember the upper one being pretty simple, and the lower one we had issues with. I know we need a fork to separate them and the clamp and rings for the lower. Does anyone have instructions or can point me in a thread to help out?
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jb1
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Report this Post07-11-2013 02:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jb1Click Here to Email jb1Send a Private Message to jb1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000007.html

------------------


87 GT
series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft)
(series II swap in progress)
85GT Northstar
86GT 3800 n/a

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thesameguy
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Report this Post07-11-2013 03:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thesameguyClick Here to Email thesameguySend a Private Message to thesameguyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Having just done this job last weekend, and for whatever it's worth, this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B0015PN010

works positively fantastically for separating the ball joints from the steering knuckle. The only gotchas are:

1. Upper ball joint: You need to jack up the control arms so the upper arm is about level to gain adequate clearance to insert the tool.
2. Lower ball joint: You need to remove the brake caliper bracket (expected) and then turn the steering knuckle fully inboard to gain clearance to insert the tool. As I was replacing everything up there, I first popped off the steering tie rod, which made it easy to turn the knuckle.

I bought the full OTC ball joint service kit (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1373526904&sr=1-1&keywords=OTC+6295) a long time ago, but that #6297 is the tool I use 10:1. It's *much* easier than a pickle fork, and it doesn't mangle ball joints, so you can use them again (if replacement isn't the goal, obviously ). If you're just replacing ball joints, using this tool instead of a pickle fork means your steering tie rod ends aren't at risk. Plus, you get a nice, satisfying POP when the ball joint comes out. My dog is terrified every time she sees me with it.

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TXGOOD
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Report this Post07-11-2013 12:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just replace my lowers and just borrowed the ball joint tool from Oreilly.
It took me about an hour and a half to do both lowers.
I didn`t remove any of the brake parts. I just turned the spindle so I could get to the nut.
Lowered the a-arm after the nut was off. ( People say to support the a-arm with a jack so the spring won`t come out but if the shock is connected it won`t)
Then just gave the spindle a good rap with a hammer and it separated.
Then the tool was easy enough to use.
You have to get the collar that just fits on the lip of the bottom of the lower a-arm because it won`t go in all the way at the bottom because of said lip.
This is on an 88 I`m not sure about others.
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FireGirl
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Report this Post07-11-2013 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FireGirlSend a Private Message to FireGirlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jb1:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000007.html



Perfect thanks! Photos won't load, maybe ill try the laptop
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