From a red light today I took off relatively hard but let out of it before the 1-2 shift, and the car absolutely slammed into 2nd, so hard belts chirped. I immediately pulled over and checked my fluid, doggone, motor mounts all looked good. So I got going again and I immediately noticed the 1-2 shift is VERY soft (VERY SOFT), also if I ease into 2nd then hit the gas 2nd doesn't slip,1st, 3rd & 4th are all fine.
I'm assuming is a **** solenoid or something along those lines, would that be something that can be repaired by just dropping the pan? Or would the trans have to come out. If I need to pull the trans I'll most likely grab a lower mile replacement form the scrap yard.
Thanks, I'm still waiting to be approved there. after some Google time I figure the 1-2 Solenoid is shot. none of the gears slip at all even under boost it's just the time betwene 1st and 2nd gear. I'm afriad to make it down shift into 2nd from 3rd in boost because I think that will hurt something.
I'm gonna grab a set of solenoids and a Intense shift kit and see what happens. I think it will stay together till next spring when I turn the power WAY up.
most likely a solenoid I know the RWD 4L60E trannies have this problem when the piston elongates the bore and fluid gets past it will make for very hard 1 to 2 shifts. Is there any codes being thrown like an 18XX code. Dan
most likely a solenoid I know the RWD 4L60E trannies have this problem when the piston elongates the bore and fluid gets past it will make for very hard 1 to 2 shifts. Is there any codes being thrown like an 18XX code. Dan
I haven't scanned it because the check engine light isn't on. But I can.
I did get to thinking maybe it was just a sticky solenoid and so I wondered if some snake oil might help it out. I was shocked at how many different bottles of transmission additives there are on the market. I ended up trying a $10 bottle of Zmax transmission additive. I was skeptical if it would even do anything. I took it easy on my 1st drive with the Zmax in and there wasn't much difference still a very sloppy 1-2 shift. After about 5 red lights it really banged into 2nd. Rather than limp it to the shop I decided to ride around town catching red lights, so the zmax could keep flowing through the trans and guess what. it felt better every time it shifts. after about 10miles around town it feels good.
Clubgp you can sign up, then log in, then it tells you that you don't exist ! I've tried to log in to that site in the past and it never works.
The OP can try the 3800 pro forum. They are accepting new members. Not a Fiero resource but good info there on 3800 engines and 4T65eHD auto transmissions. 3800pro forum
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
The shift solenoids should not effect the harshness or softness of the shift. However the pressure force solenoid would. Have in the past on these transmissions, have the force pressure solenoid cause a shutter or harsh 1/2 shift. This solenoid is pulse driven with an accumulator to control system pressure, effecting shift quality. Does the same job as the vacuum modulator on 4T60e, but controlled by the PCM. They will commonly fail the hotter they get. Also GM radiators that have cooler for 4L/T60 and 4L/Y65 series transmissions have issues with debris in the cooler. Normally from the cooler hoses coming apart internally. Being this is a swap, make sure the lines are clear. Have had some success with the Lucas transmission additives. If you do replace it, make sure you inspect for any debris in the solenoid bore. Sometimes pieces of the solenoid orings will get lodged in there.
The solenoids on the 4T65eHD are easy to replace but a shift kit install is not. To start he side cover, internal wiring harness, valve body w 4 check balls, pump, and separator plate need to be removed. Then the pan must be dropped and springs changed in the pressure regulator. There are a few more steps but you get the picture. This can be a DIY job but the utmost care must be taken to insure that reassembly is done exactly as it should. You will need internal and external torque sockets, and new gaskets. If you never worked on a transmission this is best left to someone that is familiar with the 4T65e transmission.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
