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blasting media for Fiero panels by mark1970
Started on: 07-04-2013 03:51 PM
Replies: 15 (366 views)
Last post by: IFLYR22 on 07-07-2013 09:27 PM
mark1970
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Report this Post07-04-2013 03:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mark1970Click Here to Email mark1970Send a Private Message to mark1970Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
what is a good media for the plastic panels and fiberglass on our cars? plastic beads, or glass bead?
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post07-04-2013 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
AFAIK the urethane panels used on a Fiero are actually as soft or softer than the paint. I am very skeptical that any kind of blasting would remove the paint and not damage the panels. Soda Blasting will work but it is a slow process and extreme care must be taken as to not damage the panels. That's probably the only option.

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Fierology
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Report this Post07-04-2013 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What about chemical strippers? What is safe for Fiero bodies?

-Michael
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post07-04-2013 05:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post07-04-2013 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As always, I say keep chemical strippers away. If there are ANY cracks or pinholes, the stripper will get into the panel and its then a piece of junk. To me the best method for a Fiero or Corvette is the DA. Time consuming, but you dont run the risk of ruining panels if you do it right. Ive had more than one Corvette (one of mine) that had been chemical stripped at some time. My own C4, I had to buy a new hood because of stripper soaked into the panel and kept bubbling thru. Ive had to buy new panels for many customer cars. Ive had new paint jobs go to crap days after painting because of stripper someone else used before I got the job. I stopped accepting ANY non metal car that had stripper put on it. I couldnt afford to keep redoing them for free. No problem with metal bodied cars. If you chose to anyway, thats your choice.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post07-04-2013 10:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm with Roger on this one. Don't like chemical strippers on plastic. Very hard to get perfect paint when you use them. You can gently sand the paint off or gently soda blast the paint off. If the soda blasting has been done carefully it should work fine but when you take the finish down to bare plastic you will have to spray plastic adhesion promoter to get the paint to take.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post07-05-2013 03:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't just open the can of stripper for every car I paint. Two times when I go to stripper are: 1) when paint is so thick it takes forever to sand it off, & 2) when the paint is soft & gums up the paper making it impossible to sand off. Both of these scenarios happen more often than you think. I usually get paid by the hour, so I use the quickest way to get the job done right to save my customers as much as I can. I've never had a problem with any paintjobs I've used chemical stripper on. Follow my instructions & keep it off of the base material & it works great.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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1fast2m4
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Report this Post07-05-2013 10:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fast2m4Send a Private Message to 1fast2m4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wall nut shells or soda (baking soda) on the fiberglass rear 1/4's

I don't know about using a chemical striper on the plastic/ endura flex But DO NOT use a chemicals on Fiberglass they tend to soak into the glass mat and get into places that sanding wont get when you prep for paint, and then months, years later the old stripper will contaminate the paint from the back side out. It's happened a lot on older corvettes.

But like you said, if you can keep it off the base material might not be a bad idea. I wouldn't blast.

[This message has been edited by 1fast2m4 (edited 07-05-2013).]

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post07-05-2013 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My time sanding is a lot cheaper than having to buy 1/2 of the body in new panels. One guy stripped his vette, then sanded it, and brought it to me. He had to buy new hood, 2 front fenders, new roof and new decklid. The stripper had seeped into all those panels thru pinholes and made them spongy. They 'looked' fine till you primered them. When the primer dried, it was covered with shiney spots where the stripper was seeping out. Sand them off and reprime with same results. After a few times, i ordered new parts. Better to have paid me a few hundred dollars to sand than to spend a few thousand for new parts.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 07-05-2013).]

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post07-05-2013 03:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

My time sanding is a lot cheaper than having to buy 1/2 of the body in new panels. One guy stripped his vette, then sanded it, and brought it to me. He had to buy new hood, 2 front fenders, new roof and new decklid. The stripper had seeped into all those panels thru pinholes and made them spongy. They 'looked' fine till you primered them. When the primer dried, it was covered with shiney spots where the stripper was seeping out. Sand them off and reprime with same results. After a few times, i ordered new parts. Better to have paid me a few hundred dollars to sand than to spend a few thousand for new parts.



As I said, you won't have any problems as long as you don't put the stripper on bare fiberglass spots. I could have saved that guy the thousands & $$$: I once had a guy bring me a very rare 427 hood from a '65 'Vette. The painter had stripped it, & made the same mistake you're talking about, causing the paint to bubble every where the stripper had soaked into the 'glass. I told him I could paint it & make it last. I put the hood in the hot sun (summertime) & covered it with black plastic to bleed out the stripper, washing it with lacquer thinner at least once a day as it bleed out. After about a week doing this, I was able to sand, prime, & paint & never had any problems with it. He was very happy.
I'll say it again, I only use stripper if the sanding takes too long. Part of being a professional is knowing what works best in each circumstance, & doing the best job possible with the least amount of time/work. Every car is different & requires a different technique to achieve the best results.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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Fierology
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Report this Post07-05-2013 06:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My enduraflex panels look quite good, but all the paint on my fiberglass ones is very cracked. Would I sand down until I see no more cracks before priming? I presume I would not want to prime over any of this cracking/semi-peeling paint.

Thanks,
-Michael
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post07-05-2013 07:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoClick Here to Email Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Saw your title post, hit me "funny". I've been working on making a 3800 harness, it's really getting to me. When I saw "BLASTING media" for fiero, something else came to my mind. LOL
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mark1970
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Report this Post07-07-2013 02:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mark1970Click Here to Email mark1970Send a Private Message to mark1970Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
thanks guys for the info, I may try to get a sample scrap panel of another car to experiment with different types of media as some areas on my car cannot be done with a DA such as around the tops of the fenders where it bolts to the body by the front hood. i think with the right media glass or plastic bead and low pressure and a lot of care may work.... i will post my findings as it happens.
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IFLYR22
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Report this Post07-07-2013 06:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IFLYR22Click Here to Email IFLYR22Send a Private Message to IFLYR22Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Use Sodium Bicarbonate (Soda) blasting media. The rest will cause more damage, and require more repair work (even at lower pressures/flow/etc...).

-Dave

Adding:
Soda blasting can be done with a regular blasting system. Just clean out the system when done, and keep the supply air very dry. (I use 2 driers at my tank, and one right off the compressor)

[This message has been edited by IFLYR22 (edited 07-07-2013).]

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mark1970
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Report this Post07-07-2013 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mark1970Click Here to Email mark1970Send a Private Message to mark1970Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by IFLYR22:

Use Sodium Bicarbonate (Soda) blasting media. The rest will cause more damage, and require more repair work (even at lower pressures/flow/etc...).

-Dave

Adding:
Soda blasting can be done with a regular blasting system. Just clean out the system when done, and keep the supply air very dry. (I use 2 driers at my tank, and one right off the compressor)




Thanks Dave, What size Soda media would work good? As far as driers I made a refrigerated drier out of a window AC, then a separator, then finally a Desiccant drier so i should have dry air...

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IFLYR22
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Report this Post07-07-2013 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IFLYR22Click Here to Email IFLYR22Send a Private Message to IFLYR22Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As long as it stays dry, it will work just fine. The Soda likes to suck up moisture more than any other media.
I am unfamiliar with Soda having more than one size. If by amount? You will need at least 100lbs. and that will just do the hard to sand areas.

My 66 vette started with soda for the body, but it had too many layers (as in 14 layers at some points) of paint to cut it quick, so I used a fiberglass safe stripper to get to the last layer of paint, and then it was soda and sanding. I was able to clean the glass with the soda, but cut right through the paint without harming the original gelcoat.

-Dave

Page three of http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum6/HTML/086798.html shows some soda blasting results.

[This message has been edited by IFLYR22 (edited 07-07-2013).]

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