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Help, engine stops when trying to stop by rd1
Started on: 06-30-2013 04:27 PM
Replies: 17 (289 views)
Last post by: cebix on 07-04-2013 07:11 PM
rd1
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Report this Post06-30-2013 04:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rd1Send a Private Message to rd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello guys, i'm new here and a proud owner of an 88 Fiero GT 2.8 automatic, and have a problem that i ran the first i wanted to go somewher

I was driving my fiero few weekends before repainting only in the town, no problem, after i have finished with it i made a tour 200km and discovered a BIG problem - when trying to stop my car shifts it to the first gear (i think?!) and stops working, had to turn the engine off, leave him 15-20 sec and then it will drive, when within this 20 secs i try to go on, he turns off immediately as he looses power... Its only a problem when i drive him more than 60-70mph few minutes, and as soon i have to stop somewhere and go on, he turns of

Please help me if you know whats my problem, the transmision oil is at max, new oil and filter, the problem is only when i make longer tour

I'm guessing something with the idle isnt good, but have no idea where or what to search

(PS please forgive for my bad english, i'm european)
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Shonyman32
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Report this Post06-30-2013 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Shonyman32Send a Private Message to Shonyman32Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
(free bump) I think your problem could be its a she car and not a he.
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92wastheyear
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Report this Post06-30-2013 04:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 92wastheyearSend a Private Message to 92wastheyearEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome aboard! I am sure someone with better mechanical skills than I will chime in soon with some ideas about what things to check.
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trotterlg
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Report this Post06-30-2013 05:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trotterlgSend a Private Message to trotterlgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ignition control module getting hot? Set an ice bag on it and see if it fixes it. Larry
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rd1
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Report this Post06-30-2013 05:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rd1Send a Private Message to rd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by trotterlg:

Ignition control module getting hot? Set an ice bag on it and see if it fixes it. Larry


Please can you gibe me some details, where is this module? I dont know how to do it, when i will stop, open the trunk and get some ice, it will take more than 20sec and i dont know if it is the problem in it (just kidding a bit)

Whats the purpose of the module and on what things does he affect (how to see if he is dead?!)
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post06-30-2013 05:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
One way to tell if it might be an ignition problem or a fuel injection problem is to look at the tach when the problem is happening. If the tach still works normally, and if the tach rises to 200 during cranking and then falls back to zero (if it doesn't start) then look at fuel injection.

It seems to me that you are having a fuel problem. I would check the fuel pressure, and if you can check the fuel pressure when the problem is happening.

A clogged fuel filter can give the kind of problems you are talking about.

--

In English we usually refer to cars as 'it' but sometimes as she. I like that you refer to the car as he. It makes life a little more interesting.
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theogre
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Report this Post06-30-2013 05:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
FIRST
Find a small electric connection on front of transmission.
Carefully release plug latch and unplug that connecter.

Most likely have dieing solenoid inside the transmission.

You can fix it or find a transmission shop. Can be fix Without removing the trans.

You can drive the car but you will hurt your Petrol Bill some.

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rd1
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Report this Post06-30-2013 05:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rd1Send a Private Message to rd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

FIRST
Find a small electric connection on front of transmission.
Carefully release plug latch and unplug that connecter.

Most likely have dieing solenoid inside the transmission.

You can fix it or find a transmission shop. Can be fix Without removing the trans.

You can drive the car but you will hurt your Petrol Bill some.



I like your answer, can you tell me how it is called and how to fix it or check if its broken? What is it for?
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cebix
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Report this Post06-30-2013 06:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cebixSend a Private Message to cebixEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's called a TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid.
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Hudini
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Report this Post06-30-2013 08:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's purpose is to lock the torque converter to 3rd gear so that your automatic trans acts like a manual trans with no slippage. If it sticks closed your car will die coming to a stop just like a manual trans car would if you did not push in the clutch. Disconnect the square blue plug on the front of the trans. If the problems go away then you have found your problem. Here is a thread on repair: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050119-2-055302.html

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rd1
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Report this Post07-01-2013 02:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rd1Send a Private Message to rd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Hudini:

It's purpose is to lock the torque converter to 3rd gear so that your automatic trans acts like a manual trans with no slippage. If it sticks closed your car will die coming to a stop just like a manual trans car would if you did not push in the clutch. Disconnect the square blue plug on the front of the trans. If the problems go away then you have found your problem. Here is a thread on repair: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050119-2-055302.html


Yes i see now on the web and it looks like that this is it

Thank you all, i'll post you in few days when it's changed

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rd1
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Report this Post07-02-2013 06:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rd1Send a Private Message to rd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Another question, as i took the fuse of the tcc out (nr9) i was able to drive normally home... I was wondering now is it better to repair the TCC, buy a new one or unplug it and drive without it? Is it possible that the gas consumption was better (less) when it is switched of?
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Hudini
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Report this Post07-02-2013 07:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Gas consumption will go up slightly as cruising RPM's will be a bit higher. Drive it until you buy all the parts then fix it.
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John W. Tilford
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Report this Post07-03-2013 01:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for John W. TilfordClick Here to visit John W. Tilford's HomePageSend a Private Message to John W. TilfordEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Lazy me had a transmission shop replace the TCC. No problems since. Bought TCC at NAPA.
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rd1
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Report this Post07-04-2013 05:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rd1Send a Private Message to rd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I found one in austria, costs 45€ and the switch 15, that gives something like 80$, is this normal??
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Hudini
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Report this Post07-04-2013 06:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ouch, that is more than double what you would pay in the US. Don't forget you need a side cover gasket and #30 torx bit.
Did you read this thread? Jetman lists what he paid back then. Prices are a bit higher now.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050119-2-055302.html

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rd1
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Report this Post07-04-2013 06:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rd1Send a Private Message to rd1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, more than double... No worries for the torx, gasket and other stuff, my father is a mechanic
I'm fighting with myself if i should take it down, clean it and see what happened, or wait to get a new one and over?
I know that in the us its cheaper, but delicery is expensive over the sea
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cebix
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Report this Post07-04-2013 07:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cebixSend a Private Message to cebixEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
In theory it is just an electromagnet. So if the coil is fried you "probably" could fix it. Tear it apart and see what can be done. You can drive without it, there will be just more fuel consumption driving highway (and noise) and more heat on the torque converter.

You can test it by connecting 12 V straight across it but beware. There is a flyback diode to discharge the coil current. If you connect 12 V with the wrong polarity you can fry it and you may not even know it. Installing the solenoid with the diode fried in the car can cause serious damage with the voltage spikes a coil can produce. So unless you have a good understanding of electricity don't mess around with it and replace it.

[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 07-04-2013).]

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