I started on my mirror mod this weekend. The mirrors are 93-98 BMW M-3 electric mirrors. The triangular base that came with them didn`t angle enough and it was not the right shape so I`m making my own base. I have started it out of wood and after a bit of sanding I will shape it with filler, then cast a mold. Then I will be able to use liquid hardening polyurethane to make a new base. I also have some 1/8" steel that will get bolted to the top inside of the door so that the mirror will move with the door. I will use ABS plastic to cover the hole that the removed plastic cover leaves.
[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 06-17-2013).]
The care you demonstrate in the other products you offer should realize a nice result here. However, I'm curious to know the advantages that you see utilizing this mirror.
The care you demonstrate in the other products you offer should realize a nice result here. However, I'm curious to know the advantages that you see utilizing this mirror.
Ken
Thanks, I have always liked the way the M-3 mirrors look and I was going to paint my mirrors anyway so I though why not just change the mirrors. That`s basically it, I just like the look. I have no plans for an engine swap anytime soon but I like making subtle changes to the exterior. I also need to get my hood with the scoop finished so I can install it.
[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 06-18-2013).]
Mike, are you going to clear the mirror if your window is up? It looks like it will interfere.
Will
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And in the meantime it look really hillbilly...which is awesome....because Fiero owners have nooo "public perception" problems
I won`t be driving it around like that. I do have some dignity. I just like working with wood because I have been doing it for so long. Heck, I made a dash out of cardboard covered in fiberglass and then upholstered it. Came out good.
[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 06-18-2013).]
Just needs a little stain and varnish and its good to go. I am thinking walnut might look nice..
Ha Ha I actually decided to do it a little different. I could mold in the wood with filler as I originally planned but after sanding a bit yesterday that will take too long. So, today I ordered some molding putty and I will do it that way. The only part that will be wood, before I make it entirely of plastic, will be the actual base. I should have expected the "hillbilly" comments when I posted that picture.
I`m not sure yet Kevin. I haven`t looked into that yet but they both have 4 wires so I would imagine it`s not too difficult. I am looking into getting the plate made that will bolt to the door. Once I have the mold for the base made, this will be a fairly easy mod. Thanks, Jonathon
[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 06-20-2013).]
I am glad you picked up on the fact I was kidding.....since I forgot to use the sarcasm font
I believe that font is called "Sarcastica" (credit to the comic that I stole the name from, who's name I have long forgotten)
Dr. W.
------------------ Is your Fastback GT's trunk seal shot? My Gen IV replacement GT trunk seals with miter double bonded corners are now in production. $95 + $15 flat rate shipping to the US (contact me for international shipping rates) or buy two and pay only a single shipping rate! More info can be found here GT Trunk Seal Project
Well, I`m finally back to my mirror mod. I ended up using Dow blue foam and shaping it then covering the whole thing with Epoxy resin. I ordered the Silicone rubber to make a mould and the Urethane plastic to make the base so this weekend I hope to have a completed left side ready to paint.
Would you mind documenting the whole moulding process. I'd love to know how to do it for a few projects of my own.
No problem Jonathan, I will take some pictures. I am using some products from Smooth-On. They have a distributor in Dallas and others in different areas. The Smooth-On site has some videos that show different compounds being used.
For the future, save yourself a lot of money by using these guys for the resins and mold making materials. The owner of the company has a couple different businesses that specialize in resins and offers great prices. Smooth-on is VERY pricey for what you receive.
For the future, save yourself a lot of money by using these guys for the resins and mold making materials. The owner of the company has a couple different businesses that specialize in resins and offers great prices. Smooth-on is VERY pricey for what you receive.
Thanks, I may try them. Smooth-On makes some cheaper stuff but one of the guys said that it is similar to what you would get at Hobby Lobby which is more for indoor craft projects where as the stuff I got was more of an industrial grade.
I see the link to the company you gave, looks like they only have the Silicone rubber in mixing by weight. Smooth-On makes those too but I wanted something that was a 1-1 ratio mix.
[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 08-30-2013).]
I see the link to the company you gave, looks like they only have the Silicone rubber in mixing by weight. Smooth-On makes those too but I wanted something that was a 1-1 ratio mix.
Thats the only thing that is a little challenging. When I make molds, I have to use a scale for the mixing.
This stuff works great. Mould came out very smooth and I will have only a couple of small places to sand the plastic before painting. The plastic will be poured up to right under the rough edge where the silicone ran under.
Well, here is the plastic out of the mould just held together. I will have to drill some holes for the studs to go through to hold the two pieces together.
Well, I temporarily attached the mirror today but found out I have to make a new plug because the way the mirror sits on the base it doesn`t have enough adjustment out or down. I thought I had that solved but I want it right so that the mirror sits in the housing pretty straight. Oh well, I guess thats why they call it. R & D. I am learning the joys of plastic casting. This stuff machines and sands almost just like wood but easier and smoother.
Looks Great Mike! Any chance a guy could get a set of those mounts?
I was considering making a kit but I think there are a few variables from car to car. Mine didn`t fit the same from side to side. I`m not sure about other brand of mirrors but the ones I used were Kool Vue from ebay to fit a 95 BMW 318IS or similar. It may take a while for me to develop "ready to go" parts but if you were to want just the bases, where you sand them and fit them to the mirrors I`m sure we could work something out. My moulds are a little rough and my plan was to take a blank out of the mould, sand it and get it as smooth as I could and then repour a finish mould, but right now I just don`t want to spend any more money on Silicone rubber to make finish moulds.
So, TXGOOD, do you have a lot of experience with urethane for molds?
I have had two Fieros now and both had failures of the rear spoiler pylons (oddly both on the left side). I got a new one used, but this has to be a common failure. I found a place that can do a 3D scan. Not sure how expensive they are to scan, but once I have a SolidWorks model, I can do a 3D print on the SLA at work. Once that is done, I was planning on doing molds so we can cast new ones. We should be able to produce new ones for about $20 worth of resin plus a little to cover other expenses. Even doing retail through Fiero Store or Rodney should be doable for $50 to $75 each.
Anyone know what the OEM material is on those? It looks like polycarbonate.
Thanks, this is the first time I have worked with casting plastic but after watching some of the videos that Smooth-on has I thought it can`t be that difficult. The hardest part of the project was shaping the Dow foam and getting both sides fairly similar. Really it`s limitless on small parts. If you can shape foam you can basically make any small part you want. I know that with larger parts you probably want to use fiberglass as you can make it hollow and it`s more than likely cheaper. Since I have an Amida fornt end on my car when I install the Ausfiero scoops and tapered ground effects I`m going to make a bolt on piece that continues the ground effect lines onto the front end. I will use foam to shape a mould for the plastic casting.
