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Wide tired Fiero owners. Do you have steering issues? by solotwo
Started on: 05-14-2013 10:44 AM
Replies: 75 (2054 views)
Last post by: solotwo on 05-27-2014 10:54 PM
solotwo
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Report this Post06-11-2013 05:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
..

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-10-2013).]

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Report this Post06-11-2013 06:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That is straight up incorrect there is plenty of documentation for replacing the lower ball joints and many people have Rodney's lowering ball joints. You use this great thing called an angle grinder to get rid of the weld if you have one. At one time when that was written maybe that was true, but 20 something years later and there are solutions to this.

I used a short extension and a deep socket and washers to pop my balljoints out of the spindle. I only backed the castle nuts off a quarter turn before inserting washers and socket and extension. Once it got tight, I whacked on the side on spindle where the ball joint is pressed in and they pop right out.

I have never removed the lower ball joint from a fiero arm, but with other cars I have taken the arm off, put it in a vice and used a propane torch on the arm while I hit the ball joint with a sledge hammer. They usually come out fine if they have gotten hot enough.

Or rent a ball joint press from autozone.

[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 06-11-2013).]

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solotwo
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Report this Post06-11-2013 10:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:

That is straight up incorrect there is plenty of documentation for replacing the lower ball joints and many people have Rodney's lowering ball joints. You use this great thing called an angle grinder to get rid of the weld if you have one. At one time when that was written maybe that was true, but 20 something years later and there are solutions to this.

I used a short extension and a deep socket and washers to pop my balljoints out of the spindle. I only backed the castle nuts off a quarter turn before inserting washers and socket and extension. Once it got tight, I whacked on the side on spindle where the ball joint is pressed in and they pop right out.

I have never removed the lower ball joint from a fiero arm, but with other cars I have taken the arm off, put it in a vice and used a propane torch on the arm while I hit the ball joint with a sledge hammer. They usually come out fine if they have gotten hot enough.

Or rent a ball joint press from autozone.



D

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-10-2013).]

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Report this Post06-12-2013 08:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TONY_CSend a Private Message to TONY_CEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
To remove and install the Lower Ball Joint from the A Arm you need a tool like this:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7...=otc+ball+joint+tool

Some ball joints have welds to the a-arm, some don't, I have seen them both ways. Make sure there is not a snap ring on the top side of the a arm around tha ball joint. My advice to you is that once you remove the old ball joint have the new one tacked in place even if it seems to be tight. Chances are that a arm has had the ball joint replaced at least once before and the hole is not that tight anymore and the ball joint will work it's way loose over time.
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solotwo
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Report this Post06-12-2013 09:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TONY_C:

To remove and install the Lower Ball Joint from the A Arm you need a tool like this:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7...=otc+ball+joint+tool

Some ball joints have welds to the a-arm, some don't, I have seen them both ways. Make sure there is not a snap ring on the top side of the a arm around tha ball joint. My advice to you is that once you remove the old ball joint have the new one tacked in place even if it seems to be tight. Chances are that a arm has had the ball joint replaced at least once before and the hole is not that tight anymore and the ball joint will work it's way loose over time.


I rented this from Autozone and it will not work on 84-87 lower control arms.

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-10-2013).]

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solotwo
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Report this Post06-12-2013 09:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Another day and I am feeling better, physically.

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-10-2013).]

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Report this Post06-12-2013 09:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TONY_CSend a Private Message to TONY_CEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A lot of times with Ball Joint tools you have to improvise a bit to find what works to remove it. It is not something exclusive to Fieros believe me, I have done enough ball joints to know that firsthand. These are the problems 30 year old cars have, there is not much you can do about issues like this cropping up especially if you choose the use a car this old as your DD. I drive my 84 500+ miles each week but I know that I have to spend some time under the hood and under the car to make that happen.
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solotwo
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Report this Post06-12-2013 10:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TONY_C:

A lot of times with Ball Joint tools you have to improvise a bit to find what works to remove it. It is not something exclusive to Fieros believe me, I have done enough ball joints to know that firsthand. These are the problems 30 year old cars have, there is not much you can do about issues like this cropping up especially if you choose the use a car this old as your DD. I drive my 84 500+ miles each week but I know that I have to spend some time under the hood and under the car to make that happen.


Yep I plan on taking a day off and pull the lower control arm and take it to a place that can press it out.
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solotwo
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Report this Post09-27-2013 01:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Installed rack shortly after and everything seemed ok.
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solotwo
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Report this Post09-28-2013 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
checking it out again for slevee wear
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solotwo
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Report this Post10-08-2013 02:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rourke_87_T-Top:

Just try this and report results, take the wheel off, compress the suspension from under the lower arm. Important !

Then try to move the entire brake assembly, from 11 O Clock to 1 O Clock, watch the upper arm, if the upper arm does a little see sawing motion, you will know where that clunking noise is coming from when you step on the brake, it's the long upper bolt pitching inside the sleeve. The bolt is making the noise. When you pull the bolt you will see how "shiny" it is, that bolt is hardened steel, the crossmember tube is softer, mild steel, egged out. I'm willing to bet five bucks.


I tried the process today. Nothing, no notable movement in that area. I will try again tomorrow when I have all day to investigate.

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-08-2013).]

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Report this Post10-08-2013 10:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by solotwo:

Yes I know it is kind of a dumb question. Like duh wide tires steer harder.



Just an aside with reference to the post title: I replaced the original Eagle GT 215/60x14s on my '84 SE with Michelin Sport EXP 235/60x14s. I thought they actually steered noticeably more easily. I wondered if the increased angle of the sidewalls was the reason; or maybe the sidewalls were more flexible. I've since used 225/60x14s & regardless of the brand, the steering seems as easy as the 88 Formula and 86 Coupe (with Formula wheels & original size tires).

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solotwo
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Report this Post10-09-2013 04:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rourke_87_T-Top:

Just try this and report results, take the wheel off, compress the suspension from under the lower arm. Important !

Then try to move the entire brake assembly, from 11 O Clock to 1 O Clock, watch the upper arm, if the upper arm does a little see sawing motion, you will know where that clunking noise is coming from when you step on the brake, it's the long upper bolt pitching inside the sleeve. The bolt is making the noise. When you pull the bolt you will see how "shiny" it is, that bolt is hardened steel, the crossmember tube is softer, mild steel, egged out. I'm willing to bet five bucks.


rourke_87_T-Top I followed your instructions to the "T" as I wanted to see if that is/was a problem. I did as you suggested with the car on jack stands on the subframe and and the jacked under the lower control arm. . I wiggled, reefed, yanked front to rear, side to side, up down, every way I could think of. No motion. I did find a tiny amount of play in the rack. So I am not sure what it is. It may be as I suspected a long time ago, that the front calipers are sticking.

The lower left ball joint is new. tie rod ends are new. I thought Previous Owner said ball joints are new. May be the left upper? or right lower or upper? What do you think?


Thanks,
Steve

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-09-2013).]

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Report this Post10-09-2013 05:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
solotwo
You need a back up car, stuff on cars wears out, and without time to fix it, or somehting like physical pain hindering you, unless you can just pay someone to do it, a back up car is a nice thing.
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Report this Post10-09-2013 09:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:

solotwo
You need a back up car, stuff on cars wears out, and without time to fix it, or something like physical pain hindering you, unless you can just pay someone to do it, a back up car is a nice thing.


??? Not sure where you are headed with that? Back up would be nice, but not in the cards. I am currently unemployed . Seems to be a lot of minimum paying jobs. With out getting into a scruff/argument I will refrain from any comments on the real reason. Dude my first Fiero I had for 12 years and put 100,000 on it so I understand repairs and such. When I bought this car I spent more than I should have. I should have purchased smartaxles car and I would had have a nice little kitty to use to cover any unexpected surprises. I wont get into what transpired with the purchase of the car I now have, what was said, what wasn't said etc. That's water over the damn. I will say I have invested well over $1000 correcting things and trying to get this car to run properly. And there is still a hell of a lot more that needs to be done. That $1000 is the cost of parts as I did the labor.

I am still trying to understand your point vs the topic? If you have a back car you want to donate? that would be nice, but this is my daily driver. I do have a part time job, at minimum pay, that I am doing while I search for full time employment that pays over $22,500/year. Wow 22,500 that sucks. I can remember the 90's decade were I averaged for the 10 years 44,500 and had 3 years over 65,000,now I would settle for 23000.
Why did I get into Fieros? WHY did you?
Physical pain yea some areas but that goes with age I guess, well not all the time, but I cant do now what I did 20 years ago when I was 40 and not feel it the next day!


Back to the subject. I still here the clunk not often but it is there. It reminds me of the loose cradle bolt symptom on the early GM front wheel drives. Sounds similar. I sold quite a few GM A bodies, W bodies, J bodies over the past 36 years.

So the quest continues.
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Report this Post10-10-2013 12:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have since done all the balljoints on a fiero... I do not know if you replaced your lowers already but the ones I did came out realllyyy easily (I still hit them as hard as I possibly could a few times) when I supported the lower arm with a jack stand and hit the balljoint very squarely with a sledgehammer. I got the new ones in with a ball joint press, impact wrench on that, and heating the lower control arm for short periods while I was using the impact wrench to tighten the ball joint press. They go in very little by little until they are totally bottomed out on the bottom. The hardest part is getting them to start going in squarely.

As for the clunk, I swore that I had a clunk coming from my driver's side front suspension, but it was actually the headlight motor bracket being a little bit loose. Also check swaybar bushings if you haven't.

Also the wheel bearings are only supposed to be tightened to 10 INCH pounds. They are supposed to be preloaded to 12 FT LBS, then backed off and re-tightened to 10 INCH pounds (which is like finger tight). Your bearings will get destroyed if you tightened them too much.

Good luck! IF it is ovaled holes in the cross member, to avoid swapping cross members you could unbolt the upper arm while supporting the lower control arm, swing the upper arm out of the way once you lower the lower control arm a bit and check for ovaling with the long bolt, calipers, etc. ( it will have to be ovaled at the very ends if the bolt and upper arm are moving around) If it is ovaled, you could weld around the inside edge of the hole, and then drill it out with the right sized bit. Not a permanent solution but it may last a while.
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Report this Post10-10-2013 09:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not heading anywhere , just trying to provide a different perspective. I have a few vehicles , all were quite cheap, even if one is down and out I can get to work using another, thats all. Your posts alluded to the fact that you needed it to get to work, and that you had a hard time working on it due to pain, I know I have a hard time getting time to work on things between work hours even with back up vehicles. Also when super frustrated you wont have to put it back together part way just to go to work and pull it apart again after work.

Clunks, I read a thread a while back where a few people said their cradle bolt caused a clunk, a turn tighter fixed it. I also hear they can sieze up from rust so be careful. (maybe you already checked).

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 10-10-2013).]

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solotwo
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Report this Post10-10-2013 11:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks zkh & 2.5. Gentlemen I apologize if I came across strong and not nice. This car is frustrating, more so than the car it replaced. I made a bad purchase decision based on a snap decision and misinformation, so I am extremely frustrated. Then I am laid off, let go or whatever you want to call it at the end of July. No job no money and a car that needs some attention. I have some big expenses coming up in the future. I wont waste your time by listing all of it.

ZKH Thank you for the comments. New wheel bearings less than a month ago. Clunk was there before new bearings and after. I installed a new lower ball joint on driver side as the old one was missing a boot and it was full of dirt. I have to check my notes as I think PO said new joints in the front. Yes he listed all new joints in the front. Some kind of poly in the front, I have to look it up. Oh I found it, it has Prothane in the front. Poly in the rear.

2.5 I didnt think about the cradle bolts because the noise seems to be coming from the front and I can feel it in the floor board. But given the fact that the supercharger was low on fluid took over a bottle, the transmission was low, took over a quart when I got the car, some of the supercharger bolts needed to be tighten. It had oil leaks mainly all over the oil pan, which I found to be all the pan bolts were finger tight. Also transmission bolts needed to be tighten. So it stands to reason that may be the cradle bolts are also loose. I'll have to check.

Thanks

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-10-2013).]

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Report this Post10-10-2013 02:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by solotwo:

Thanks zkh & 2.5. Gentlemen I apologize if I came across strong and not nice. This car is frustrating, more so than the car it replaced. I made a bad purchase decision based on a snap decision and misinformation, so I am extremely frustrated. Then I am laid off, let go or whatever you want to call it at the end of July. No job no money and a car that needs some attention. I have some big expenses coming up in the future. I wont waste your time by listing all of it.

ZKH Thank you for the comments. New wheel bearings less than a month ago. Clunk was there before new bearings and after. I installed a new lower ball joint on driver side as the old one was missing a boot and it was full of dirt. I have to check my notes as I think PO said new joints in the front. Yes he listed all new joints in the front. Some kind of poly in the front, I have to look it up. Oh I found it, it has Prothane in the front. Poly in the rear.

2.5 I didnt think about the cradle bolts because the noise seems to be coming from the front and I can feel it in the floor board. But given the fact that the supercharger was low on fluid took over a bottle, the transmission was low, took over a quart when I got the car, some of the supercharger bolts needed to be tighten. It had oil leaks mainly all over the oil pan, which I found to be all the pan bolts were finger tight. Also transmission bolts needed to be tighten. So it stands to reason that may be the cradle bolts are also loose. I'll have to check.

Thanks



No prob
Found the thread, and it may have other ideas for you too.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/130445.html

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 10-10-2013).]

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solotwo
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Report this Post10-10-2013 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


No prob
Found the thread, and it may have other ideas for you too.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/130445.html



Hmmm 2.5 I am beginning to think this is the problem.

Thanks!
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Report this Post10-10-2013 04:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This thread would have gone better I think if you didn't make the assumption that all Fiero owners are wide and tired. I mean many of us are, but not all.
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Report this Post10-10-2013 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

This thread would have gone better I think if you didn't make the assumption that all Fiero owners are wide and tired. I mean many of us are, but not all.


LOL that describes me.
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Report this Post10-10-2013 11:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for AL68Click Here to Email AL68Send a Private Message to AL68Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think rourke_87's right about the upper a-arm bolt being slightly loose - if you look close at the picture of the rear upper bushing it looks like a little powdered rust on the washer and end of bolt sleeve welded to the crossmember - usually a sign something's moving.
Trying to move the arm by hand to see if it's loose might not be enough force if it's barely loose, the weight of the car may make it "pop" when driving.

Try tightening the bolt/nut more & see if the noise changes.
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Report this Post10-10-2013 11:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by AL68:

I think rourke_87's right about the upper a-arm bolt being slightly loose - if you look close at the picture of the rear upper bushing it looks like a little powdered rust on the washer and end of bolt sleeve welded to the crossmember - usually a sign something's moving.
Trying to move the arm by hand to see if it's loose might not be enough force if it's barely loose, the weight of the car may make it "pop" when driving.

Try tightening the bolt/nut more & see if the noise changes.


I'll try tightening up all the bolts & nuts both in the front and rear.
That rust was just surface rust as the PO installed all new stuff last year.

Thanks
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Report this Post10-11-2013 12:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was just mentioning the bearing because you said you snugged them down, and I wanted to make sure you did not mean you tightened them to 12 ft.lbs because that is a common misconception
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Report this Post10-12-2013 12:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello all. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Well today in short period of time, I had to work this afternoon to 11:30 tonight, any way I accomplished a lot in a short time frame.
First drivers side(left)checked the upper control arm bolt that was tight and to specs. Then per zkh's suggestion re-tighten the wheel bearing and tighten to 10 ft lbs.
Then right side checked the upper control arm bolt. It was not tighten to spec, so I tighten it to proper torque spec. Hmmm lose bolt kinda. Then did the wheel bearing again.
Next passenger side rear suspension front cradle bolt, I asked my self why is this tightening and tightening, Did I go past the torque setting on my torque wrench? So I back it off and did it again until it was to torque spec. Wow another "loose" bolt. Then to the passenger side rear cradle bolt. Same thing not tighten to spec. Third loose bolt.
Next I am on the drivers side rear cradle bolt. Same thing, then to the front cradle bolt again same thing. Very interesting 5 out of 6 bolts were not tightened to spec.
In driving it tonight I could not tell if there is a difference. I'll keep notes the next couple of days.

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-12-2013).]

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Report this Post10-12-2013 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:

Also the wheel bearings are only supposed to be tightened to 10 INCH pounds. They are supposed to be preloaded to 12 FT LBS, then backed off and re-tightened to 10 INCH pounds (which is like finger tight). Your bearings will get destroyed if you tightened them too much.


 
quote
Originally posted by solotwo:

...per zkh's suggestion re-tighten the wheel bearing and tighten to 10 ft lbs.


There appears to be a communication problem here.
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Report this Post10-12-2013 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mkmanClick Here to Email mkmanSend a Private Message to mkmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Has the steering issue been fixed with the new rack? I would suggest checking for a worn u-joint in the steering column. These are commonly overlooked, but on a high mileage car the wear can cause clunks, loose steering, and in extreme cases steering binding up.
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Report this Post10-12-2013 08:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mkman:

Has the steering issue been fixed with the new rack? I would suggest checking for a worn u-joint in the steering column. These are commonly overlooked, but on a high mileage car the wear can cause clunks, loose steering, and in extreme cases steering binding up.


That just may be the situation. But I am glad I checked rear cradle bolts. I noticed when checking for play in the crossmember slevees the only play was in the steering.

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 10-12-2013).]

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rourke_87_T-Top
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Report this Post10-12-2013 08:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rourke_87_T-TopClick Here to Email rourke_87_T-TopSend a Private Message to rourke_87_T-TopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by AL68:

- if you look close at the picture of the rear upper bushing it looks like a little powdered rust on the washer and end of bolt sleeve welded to the crossmember - usually a sign something's moving.
.


There is definitely a wear issue, It's an inherent design flaw, just the same idea of cylinder walls become out of round.
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Report this Post10-12-2013 09:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
10 INCH pounds, not ftlbs, it is basically finger tight. Maybe mis-worded on your part but just in case you accidentally tightened it to 10 foot lbs
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solotwo
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Report this Post10-12-2013 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

There appears to be a communication problem here.



Service manual calls for foot pounds
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Report this Post10-13-2013 03:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by solotwo:

Service manual calls for foot pounds


The correct torque to put on the front wheel bearings has long been a cause of distress with those of us who "enjoy" working on our cars. Anyone who's done this for awhile has developed their own technique.

I remember reading years ago that damage from front wheel bearings being set too loose was much more of a problem than from bearings bearing set too tight. However, that doesn't mean the best thing to do is to reef down on them.

This is from the '85 FSM which has been posted here previously...

 
quote
1: Hand Spin Wheel To the right. (I spin it in the direction of forward wheel travel.)

2: Tighten The nut to 16N.m (12 Ft. LBS.) Fully Seating Bearings - This overcomes any burrs or threads.

3: Back Off Nut until Just Loose Position.

4: Hand "SNUG-UP" The Nut.

5: Losen the nut, until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut - Then insert Cotter Pin

NOTICE!: Bend Ends of cotter pin against the nut, cut off extra length to prevent interference with dust cap.

6: When the bearing is properly adjusted there will be from .03 -.13mm (.001 -.005 INCHES) End-Play (Looseness).

That's it.

I err on the side of perhaps being a little snug.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

There appears to be a communication problem here.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-13-2013).]

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solotwo
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Report this Post10-31-2013 10:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by rourke_87_T-Top:

Just try this and report results, take the wheel off, compress the suspension from under the lower arm. Important !

Then try to move the entire brake assembly, from 11 O Clock to 1 O Clock, watch the upper arm, if the upper arm does a little see sawing motion, you will know where that clunking noise is coming from when you step on the brake, it's the long upper bolt pitching inside the sleeve. The bolt is making the noise. When you pull the bolt you will see how "shiny" it is, that bolt is hardened steel, the crossmember tube is softer, mild steel, egged out. I'm willing to bet five bucks.



Rourke I tried again and I reefed on it and I can not get it to move. But did notice once again a little play in the steerng, which leads me to think I need to adjust the rack preload.
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solotwo
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Report this Post11-10-2013 10:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Gotta find the guy in Shelby Township that has a crossmember. I think that is the problem. Installed a new caliper on the driver side front and drove it to work last night. No noise, but I really need to drive it more to ensure the caliper solved the problem. Some how my gut feeling is orourke is correct.
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Report this Post05-27-2014 10:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
New crossmember that I got from RCR

Stage 2 of POR 15

Por 15


It is ready to install
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