Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions
  Removing rear struts pre 88 (Page 1)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version

This topic is 2 pages long:  1   2 
Previous Page | Next Page
next newest topic | next oldest topic
Removing rear struts pre 88 by kendallville
Started on: 04-28-2013 12:34 AM
Replies: 51 (4100 views)
Last post by: Lou and Blue on 04-06-2014 09:38 PM
kendallville
Member
Posts: 944
From: kendallville,In,USA
Registered: Aug 2009


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-28-2013 12:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
In this post I will explain how to remove pre 88 rear struts . The 88 had a diferent suspension and may not apply .
The book says to scribe the position of the strut bracket and nuckle where the two meet, to get alignment close.
then stats if changing struts the marks will not be there . so I quess its up to you if you think it will help ( we will see)
Tools Needed
3/4 inch breaker bar
3/4 inch ratchet
1/2 inch ratchet
1/2 inch extension
hammer
3/4 drive 15/16 socket
13mm deep 1/2 inch drive socket
13 mm 1/2 inch socket
penetraiting oil ( such as pb blaster )
jack
1 start by loosining the lug nuts , raise and remove the rear wheels.always use jack stands don't trust your life to a jack alone!
NO NEED TO REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPERS
but spray the bottom strut bolts with oil , then spray them again , then repeat.

2 The manual has you start by removing the 3 nuts and plates on the top of the strut , in engiene compartment. using the
13mm deep socket
I found this adds stress to the strut while trying to remove the bottom bolts. I found it easier to just loosen them to make
sure they will come loose later.


3 With the 13 mm regular socket and extension ( makes reaching it easier )
next remove the screw that holds the brake hose on to the strut assembly.
support the lower control arm with the Jack , just raise the jack enough to support the control arm without
raising it any. and stay clear of the ball joint and grease zerk.

4 Using the 3/4 in breaker bar and 15/16 socket loosen the bottom strut bolts . You will need to repeat the oil, you might need
to use every four letter word you know ( I did not however I did pop my shoulder out ) and stand on the breaker bar to
get them loose.


5 Now that the nuts are loose, back them out to the end of the bolt.
I took the breaker bar on the bolt end and again stood on it , occasionaly getting off to firmly but not hard tapping the nut.
This helps to break loose the rust inside, and creates smalll gaps between parts to spray oil in.
Once the bolts break loose take the 3/4 drive ratchet with the 15/16 socket and allternate turning the bolt and spraying oil
in on the bolt. I did this untill it was free and could be turned by hand.
At this point I tapped on the nut untill the bolt moved out and the nut was against the ( keeping the nut on prevents damage
to the threads )then backed the nut off more and repeated untill I could take the nut off and pull out the bolts.

6 next go back to the top three nuts holding the struts in the strut tower, ( never remove the center nut on the top
of the strut , the spring tenssion can KILL YOU or someone you love! )
Using the 13mm deep socket and 1/2 ratchet to remove the three nuts. the strut will now be loose I lowered the jack supporting
the control arm to make a little more room . then just move the strut assembly around untill you get it off the nuckle,
and can drop it out of the strut tower.

7 repeat on the other side, This post is assuming you are replacing the struts I am. they are original to the car and far
past thier intended life span. I do not intend to take the strut units apart, If your springs or plastic boots around the
struts are bad you might need to replace them as well.
I plan on taking mine to a shop and letting them take them apart and putting the springs on my new struts.
If you are good at using spring compressors you can take the struts apart your self . but I do not recomend
thier use if you are not familiar with them, the spring can kick out if not used correctly.



8 Take nap and pain pills for your shoulder ( sorry thats me! ) Instalation is the reverse of what you did.

9 Once you get the them on You need to take the car to get the alignment done , Becare full the car might
want to go its way and not yours , try to make it a short trip or have it hauled to the shop.
Better safe than sorry!
I will try to update this post once I find out how much it costs to have the struts changed out, and if I remember
anything that my oldtimers made me forget ( what were we talking about? ) I hope this helps

[This message has been edited by kendallville (edited 04-28-2013).]

IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
h.d.fire
Member
Posts: 977
From: Minooka, IL
Registered: Sep 2006


Feedback score:    (28)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-28-2013 11:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for h.d.fireClick Here to Email h.d.fireSend a Private Message to h.d.fireEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice thread! And GREAT job with the pictures.
I just replaced the struts on my 86' this past week. I've done struts before and R&R'ing the spring is not all that much trouble.
You do need a spring compressor to do this correctly and safely, but it can be done at home with simple tools. I'm finishing up my front
suspension this week and then off to the alignment shop!

[This message has been edited by h.d.fire (edited 04-28-2013).]

IP: Logged
Lou6t4gto
Member
Posts: 8436
From: sarasota
Registered: May 2008


Feedback score:    (7)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-28-2013 02:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoClick Here to Email Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just a "thought", After installing new struts and having it "Aligned", (using the big washer alignment bolts), I "tack welded" I washer on each side "in place", so if the struts need to come off in the future, they will go right back on (Pre Aligned), so another trip to the alignment shop is avoided. Just "scribing" a line on them has never worked out.
IP: Logged
css9450
Member
Posts: 5023
From: Glen Ellyn, Illinois, USA
Registered: Nov 2002


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 82
Rate this member

Report this Post04-28-2013 03:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by kendallville:

In this post I will explain how to remove pre 88 rear struts . The 88 had a diferent suspension and may not apply .


'88s are exactly the same. The top of the strut tower has a different type of plate (its a ring) where the three 13mm nuts attach, but that's it. The big difference on the 88s is down below.

IP: Logged
Dennis LaGrua
Member
Posts: 13642
From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A.
Registered: May 2000


Feedback score:    (13)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 321
Rate this member

Report this Post04-28-2013 04:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice write-up. Anyone who has not done a strut replacement will really appreciate this. If I may just add one tip.
Be sure to mark the spring position on the old struts. Then measure and mark the approximate position on the new struts. Next mark the position of where the strut attaches to the chassis bracket. Put the spring back in roughly the same position as the old one came off and align the strut to the chassis bracket.. You will still need the alignment but the car will drive better going to the alignment shop.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

IP: Logged
deceler8
Member
Posts: 2139
From: Sioux City, Iowa USA
Registered: Sep 1999


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-28-2013 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for deceler8Click Here to Email deceler8Send a Private Message to deceler8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You're a life saver. Planning this next weekend.

------------------

IP: Logged
James Bond 007
Member
Posts: 8745
From: California.U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2002


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 263
Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
And after you remove the struts, you can either buy new coil\struts together or take your old strut coils and have the coils swaped over to your new struts. I tried swapping out the old struts for the new and it was a beyotch.So I took them to the auto shop.
IP: Logged
jaskispyder
Member
Posts: 21510
From: Northern MI
Registered: Jun 2002


Feedback score:    (22)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 205
Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 10:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you have access to air tools, changing out the springs is not bad. You will also need a spring compressor. I recommend spending the money and get a good one (looks like a big clamp). I have the smaller, cheaper bolt clamps. They work, but it is scary using them.

I have changed Fiero struts and struts on my Aztek. Aztek springs were under a lot if tension, vs Fiero.
IP: Logged
mike-ohio
Member
Posts: 740
From: Marion Ohio
Registered: Feb 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 11:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mike-ohioClick Here to visit mike-ohio's HomePageClick Here to Email mike-ohioSend a Private Message to mike-ohioEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When I changed my struts the two bottom bolts would not loosen up even with a torch, air hammer, and a 3/4in. breaker bar with a long steel pipe. Had to grind off the bolts to remove the struts.

Just might be good insurance to buy new bolts and have them available just in case.
IP: Logged
jaskispyder
Member
Posts: 21510
From: Northern MI
Registered: Jun 2002


Feedback score:    (22)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 205
Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 11:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mike-ohio:

When I changed my struts the two bottom bolts would not loosen up even with a torch, air hammer, and a 3/4in. breaker bar with a long steel pipe. Had to grind off the bolts to remove the struts.

Just might be good insurance to buy new bolts and have them available just in case.


I broke my 1/2" breaker bar (no cheater, even)..... trying to remove the bolts on one Fiero. I ended up having the shop swap them because I was running out of time.

IP: Logged
css9450
Member
Posts: 5023
From: Glen Ellyn, Illinois, USA
Registered: Nov 2002


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 82
Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 12:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mike-ohio:

When I changed my struts the two bottom bolts would not loosen up even with a torch, air hammer, and a 3/4in. breaker bar with a long steel pipe. Had to grind off the bolts to remove the struts.


 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:

I broke my 1/2" breaker bar (no cheater, even)..... trying to remove the bolts on one Fiero.


Remember, though, that the bolts are not threaded into anything except the nut. Its a straight shaft through the knuckle. Turning it with the ratchet might help get it loose enough for the penetrating oil to work its way inside, but they're designed to be tapped out with a hammer. In a perfect world, that is!

I had to remove my struts from the car with the knuckles still attached. I laid them down on the driveway and beat the bolts out of them with a sledgehammer. Yes, I bought new ones.

The real scary ones are on the newer cars that use aluminum steering knuckles. I've heard of guys breaking the knuckles because the steel bolts had seized themselves into the knuckles. Some Fords, for example, are notorious for that.

Might as well be safe and use some anti-seize on those bolts, for next time.

IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Patrick
Member
Posts: 30729
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 443
Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 01:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by css9450:

Might as well be safe and use some anti-seize on those bolts, for next time.


I use anti-seize on every nut and bolt I put back on my cars when I've dismantled something.

But I gotta wonder why automobile assembly plants don't apply a little anti-seize to potentially troublesome fasteners when the cars are originally being built. Yeah yeah, I know... it would increase the cost of each car by a couple of bucks.
IP: Logged
Dennis LaGrua
Member
Posts: 13642
From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A.
Registered: May 2000


Feedback score:    (13)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 321
Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 02:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:


I broke my 1/2" breaker bar (no cheater, even)..... trying to remove the bolts on one Fiero. I ended up having the shop swap them because I was running out of time.


On one Fiero we found lower strut bolts rusted in so tight that even a 1/2" impact gun with 650 ft lbs of torque would not move them. Getting the bolts red hot with the torch and hitting with a mallet made no difference. We finally just pulled out the entire chassis bracket/knuckle and replaced it with a good spare and new offset bolts. On very high mileage cars used in an environment where there is rain and or snow this occasionally happens,
------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 04-29-2013).]

IP: Logged
kendallville
Member
Posts: 944
From: kendallville,In,USA
Registered: Aug 2009


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-29-2013 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"Just might be good insurance to buy new bolts and have them available just in case."
Good point I did order new bolts with the struts, forgot to mention it before .
I allways asume what can go wrong will go wrong, In fact I had to order them twice the first set
was missing a nut and washer. I got the springs switched over today a local shop did it for $50,
the local GM dealer wanted $80.
The only hold up now is while taking them off my shoulder made a loud pop and now my right arm
is about useless, sore and weak.


IP: Logged
85 SE VIN 9
Member
Posts: 690
From: Harwood Heights, IL, USA
Registered: Apr 2010


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-30-2013 09:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Click Here to Email 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pep Boys wants $315 labor to do the whole job. My plan is to get all the other parts (mounts and so on) and the best struts I can afford and have the whole job done. It just sounds like too dangerous and strenuous a job to attempt and too much to pay to install a cheap set or risk having to do it again.
IP: Logged
Charlie1963
Member
Posts: 100
From: Eaton Rapids, MI, USA
Registered: May 2013


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post05-31-2013 09:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Charlie1963Send a Private Message to Charlie1963Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the great instructions, this helped me replace the struts on my 85 last night. The lower strut bolts came out with no problem, only needed a 2 foot pipe with the 1/2" drive ratchet to break them loose. I also replace the front shocks last night. All of the old struts and shocks were completely dead with no gas charge in them. Just need to go get an alignment now.
IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post06-03-2013 08:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I use anti-seize on every nut and bolt I put back on my cars when I've dismantled something.

:


When using anti seize on something like a strut mount bolt, do you alter the torque wrench to a lighter setting as to not over torque?
IP: Logged
fierofool
Member
Posts: 11834
From: Auburn, Georgia USA
Registered: Jan 2002


Feedback score:    (13)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 151
Rate this member

Report this Post03-16-2014 01:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The torque is the force exerted on the threads of the nut and bolt. That comes in part from contact resistance, but largely from the strut bracket as it's compressed against the knuckle by the head of the bolt and the nut. Seems if you torque it to spec, that would translate to the same amount of clamping force exerted against the knuckle.

Generally, anti-sieze isn't used where there's a possibility of a hazardous failure due to the fastener coming loose. Ancillary items like alternators, power steering pumps and such wouldn't be a problem if anti-sieze were used, but suspension components might create a liability.

This is a good thread and the pictures are (were) very good, but this thread is a very good example of why off-site photo hosing shouldn't be used for something that can be relevant and useful for a long time. For me, all the pictures have disappeared. Any others having problems seeing them?
IP: Logged
Blacktree
Member
Posts: 20447
From: Central Florida
Registered: Dec 2001


Feedback score:    (11)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 350
Rate this member

Report this Post03-16-2014 02:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Actually, the images appear to be hosted by PIP. But they're working now.

On a side note, when I rebuilt my Fiero's suspension in 2004, the big strut bolts had to be "tapped out" with a hydraulic press. Then when I installed the '88 rear suspension a few months ago, it was the same. Needless to say, in both cases I bought new strut bolts. I also cleaned the rust residue out of the bolt holes in the knuckle, and spread anti-seize grease in there.
IP: Logged
css9450
Member
Posts: 5023
From: Glen Ellyn, Illinois, USA
Registered: Nov 2002


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 82
Rate this member

Report this Post03-16-2014 03:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Generally, anti-sieze isn't used where there's a possibility of a hazardous failure due to the fastener coming loose. Ancillary items like alternators, power steering pumps and such wouldn't be a problem if anti-sieze were used, but suspension components might create a liability.



 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

I also cleaned the rust residue out of the bolt holes in the knuckle, and spread anti-seize grease in there.



I agree with both. Apply the anti-seize to the smooth portion of the bolt that remains inside the hole in the knuckle. Don't apply it to the threaded portion where the nut goes.

By the way, I saw a car in the junkyard recently where the original strut-to-knuckle bolts had lone ago been replaced with ones that were MUCH smaller. Like, maybe half the diameter they should be! With enormous washers on each end to keep the bolt head and nut from pulling through the holes. So to keep the car from losing alignment every time they hit a bump, the bolts had been tightened so much they had actually made the washers dish-shaped! And they were just regular hardware-store grade fasteners, too, not high-strength like those used in actual suspension parts. It was an example of how NOT to do it.

IP: Logged
fierofool
Member
Posts: 11834
From: Auburn, Georgia USA
Registered: Jan 2002


Feedback score:    (13)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 151
Rate this member

Report this Post03-16-2014 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Actually, the images appear to be hosted by PIP. But they're working now.



They're working for me, too. Couldn't see them earlier.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
ag9123
Member
Posts: 250
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Sep 2013


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-16-2014 10:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ag9123Click Here to Email ag9123Send a Private Message to ag9123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a set of Moog K928 Camber Adjusting Bolt Kits on hand for my upcoming strut replacement.
They provide for camber adjustment unlike the stock bolts.

------------------
1984 Indy Fiero

[This message has been edited by ag9123 (edited 03-24-2014).]

IP: Logged
jsmorter
Member
Posts: 124
From: creston ohio usa
Registered: Jun 2013


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-17-2014 11:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jsmorterClick Here to Email jsmorterSend a Private Message to jsmorterEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
side note. if you don't have the camber adjusting bolts you can take an extra axle nut, screw it on a little bit, then use a deep well socket over both axle nuts and a long extension in the socket for leverage to adjust camber.

[This message has been edited by jsmorter (edited 03-17-2014).]

IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post03-17-2014 01:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ag9123:

I have a set of Moog K90476 Camber Adjusting Bolt Kits on hand for my upcoming strut replacement.
They provide for camber adjustment unlike the stock bolts.



So this is what you want to use? I replaced my struts over winter and soon will head to the alignment shop, stock bolts are in right now.
I should bring this K90476 set with me?

IP: Logged
jaybug56
Member
Posts: 377
From: Rockford, Illinois
Registered: Jan 2010


Feedback score:    (8)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-17-2014 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaybug56Click Here to Email jaybug56Send a Private Message to jaybug56Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


So this is what you want to use? I replaced my struts over winter and soon will head to the alignment shop, stock bolts are in right now.
I should bring this K90476 set with me?



Great write-up.

One question I have is

Are these a replacement for the top or bottom bolt?
Or do I just take a pair to the alignment shop and let them do it?
IP: Logged
Blacktree
Member
Posts: 20447
From: Central Florida
Registered: Dec 2001


Feedback score:    (11)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 350
Rate this member

Report this Post03-18-2014 02:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The cam bolt replaces the bottom one.
IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post03-18-2014 08:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaybug56:

do I just take a pair to the alignment shop and let them do it?


I still have this question, since I have never aligned a car myself, if i just bring this bolt with they will know how to use it, also if I need to swap them in there before driving over ot get aligned.
IP: Logged
Blacktree
Member
Posts: 20447
From: Central Florida
Registered: Dec 2001


Feedback score:    (11)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 350
Rate this member

Report this Post03-18-2014 01:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5: I still have this question, since I have never aligned a car myself, if i just bring this bolt with they will know how to use it, also if I need to swap them in there before driving over ot get aligned.

In theory, a mechanic should know what a cam bolt is, and how to install it. But nowadays, you never know.

I personally prefer to install the parts myself, eyeball the alignment, then take it to a shop for final alignment adjustment. But if you decide to have the mechanic install them, just make sure he knows where they're supposed to go. And if he gets indignant about that, go find another mechanic.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-18-2014).]

IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post03-18-2014 02:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

In theory, a mechanic should know what a cam bolt is, and how to install it. But nowadays, you never know.

I personally prefer to install the parts myself, eyeball the alignment, then take it to a shop for final alignment adjustment. But if you decide to have the mechanic install them, just make sure he knows where they're supposed to go. And if he gets indignant about that, go find another mechanic.



Thanks, I'm not sure how to even eyeball an alignment but I would try. Do you use a yard stick or something?
IP: Logged
BrittB
Member
Posts: 453
From: Keizer, OR
Registered: Dec 2013


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-18-2014 07:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BrittBSend a Private Message to BrittBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Who sells that bolt?
IP: Logged
Blacktree
Member
Posts: 20447
From: Central Florida
Registered: Dec 2001


Feedback score:    (11)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 350
Rate this member

Report this Post03-18-2014 08:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5: Thanks, I'm not sure how to even eyeball an alignment but I would try. Do you use a yard stick or something?

Some reading material: http://www.hotrod.com/techa...eel_alignment_guide/
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post03-19-2014 07:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BrittB:

Who sells that bolt?


Jegs does, but there are a ton on ebay cheaper, even MOOG brand. Oreilly auto parts does too.
IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post03-21-2014 07:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OK just making sure, this part "K90476 " says it doesn't fit Fiero are we sure it works? Also I will need 2, correct? One for each lower strut bolt replacement? Are they the same bolt each side or is there left and right version?

Thanks
IP: Logged
Blacktree
Member
Posts: 20447
From: Central Florida
Registered: Dec 2001


Feedback score:    (11)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 350
Rate this member

Report this Post03-22-2014 09:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The Fiero Store sells cam bolts for the rear struts, part number 57517. But they're $17 apiece. (yikes!)
IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post03-23-2014 08:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I bought one of these (K90476) and need to know if I need to return it.
IP: Logged
ag9123
Member
Posts: 250
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Sep 2013


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-24-2014 09:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ag9123Click Here to Email ag9123Send a Private Message to ag9123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
2.5 just pointed out to me that the part number I listed is incorrect for the Fiero. It should be K928 per MOOG online. The K90476 number that Amazon says fits is apparently not correct.
However, PepBoys shows the K90476 number works. here's the K928. Had a much longer eccentric cam than the K90476 part. maybe both will work?

------------------
1984 Indy Fiero

IP: Logged
ag9123
Member
Posts: 250
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Sep 2013


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-24-2014 10:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ag9123Click Here to Email ag9123Send a Private Message to ag9123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here's the image of the K928 (top photo) vs. the K90476 :

------------------
1984 Indy Fiero

IP: Logged
ag9123
Member
Posts: 250
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Sep 2013


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-24-2014 03:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ag9123Click Here to Email ag9123Send a Private Message to ag9123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Cam bolt mystery solved!
Both part numbers will work. The K928 offers a wider range of camber adjustment.

------------------
1984 Indy Fiero

IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 41078
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 178
Rate this member

Report this Post03-24-2014 03:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If the struts are also slotted thats probably just a bonus?

Thanks for posting!
IP: Logged
Sin City Superhero
Junior Member
Posts: 3
From: Las Vegas, Nevada USA
Registered: Mar 2014


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-02-2014 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Sin City SuperheroClick Here to Email Sin City SuperheroSend a Private Message to Sin City SuperheroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I need to replace my struts, but I also need new springs. My biggest problem is finding new OEM springs for a 1986 Fiero GT. The only springs I can find are lowering springs, and I want to return my vehicle to stock ride-hight (way too low to the ground). Summit Racing has MOOG 5415 coil spring listed on eBay, that says that it's compatible, but when I called Summit to verify compatibility, they could not confirm. So I called the MOOG (Federal-Mogul) Auto Division., but it was after-hours for their Tech Department.

Does anybody know the part number for the rear coil springs for an '86 Fiero, or a different vehicle with the same spring?

------------------
1986 GT w/ 1995 Camaro 3.4L & 4-speed automatic

IP: Logged
Previous Page | Next Page

This topic is 2 pages long:  1   2 
next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock