My 1/2" IR Titanium impact wrench couldn't do it...was finally able to get it with a 3/4".
yeah depends on brand of gun and how good the compressor is, and so on... Mine did come off with my 1/2 inch gun, although it was about all it wanted to do. lol
I bent a 3/4" galvanized pipe on the end of a large breaker bar, with my engine stand secured down.... The bolt still didnt break loose... Believe it or not a cheap electric impact gun got it off.
Impact is the best bet when on the engine stand, although I always wondered if an impact there hurts rod or crank bearings.
Get a flywheel lock, or have someone hold a screwdriver in the flywheel. Get a big old pipe, breaker bar, and 24 mm socket.
That's how I did it. I didn't even knock it off the three wheeled Harbor Freight engine stand.
Also, as mentioned you'll need a pulley puller to get it off. Most kits don't come with the correct bolts. I think they're M5x100 with a couple of fender washers to fill the gaps.
[This message has been edited by GM Shane (edited 04-20-2013).]
Years ago we got crankshaft bolts off with a breaker bar. We used to pop a spark plug , lower the piston, and put in some knotted clothes line levavng about a foot outside.. This would hold the piston before TDC so we would could loosen the bolt without the engine rotating. I am not sure that it would even work on todays engines, and I cannot recommend it, but it was a "poorman" technique that worked way back when as a kid I could not afford impact tools. I used many stone age procedures back then and surprisingly most worked.
I've taken off many many crank bolts and the 6-7 3800's by far have been the worst. My wifes 04 model my $$$ matco 1/2" or my cheapie wouldn't remove it even with regulator maxed at 160psi and fresh oil. I stopped by Ford and grabbed everybody's 1/2" including a couple high dollar snapon's and then a buddies shop to grab his. NONE of them would loosen the bolt,and we even bent a flywheel fixture I made from a strip of steel bolte to crank and block.
Finally I said screw the rubber and just took a map torch to the bolt and got it hot. After the head started showing red spots I hit it with impact and it came out like butter. Nearest I can figure is you gotta melt the threadlock,I think my Matco gun is rated at like 850ft/lbs. From now on I just torch em when I first have trouble and haven't had such an issue since.
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
Years ago we got crankshaft bolts off with a breaker bar. We used to pop a spark plug , lower the piston, and put in some knotted clothes line levavng about a foot outside.. This would hold the piston before TDC so we would could loosen the bolt without the engine rotating. I am not sure that it would even work on todays engines, and I cannot recommend it, but it was a "poorman" technique that worked way back when as a kid I could not afford impact tools. I used many stone age procedures back then and surprisingly most worked.
Also an excellent tip for changing valve springs in the vehicle.
[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 04-26-2013).]
If you still have the torque plate on the motor you can use a prybar to hold it while turning the crank bolt with a long cheater bar. Very easy with two people but manageable by one person.
