Looking for some advice guys- I'm going through my newly acquired 86' SE DGP car fixing all the small problems. The first on my list was to get the clutch working properly again. Car has the 2.8, 4-speed. I'm going to replace the master and slave cylinders and I'm wondering if anyone has used DOT 5 fluid? Other than the cost, is there any reason not to? I know it's used extensively in motorcycles since it doesn't draw moisture. Also, I've read Archies procedure on bleeding the system but I can't see how you get a pair of vise grips on the slave rod. It looks to me that the heat shield is in the way??? Or are folks leaving the heat shield off? Thanks in advance!
A friend of mine swears by it for clutch fluid. You have to completely flush the old fluid with alcohol as DOT 5 doesn't play well with others. I split the difference and just use DOT 4 on everything.
The rubber parts in Fiero clutch and brake systems was designed for DOT 3. There have been some postings on this forum that DOT 5 will cause the rubber parts to deteriorate quickly. Unless the slave and master cylinder rubber parts have been upgraded and the manufacturer recommends DOT 4 or 5, personally, I'd stay with DOT 3.
Edit for a bleeding procedure:
Archie's method works well if you can get to the slave pushrod. I personally prefer the one-man gravity bleed method.
Jack the left front of the car enough to get the wheel off the ground. Fill the clutch reservoir, leaving the cap off and an open bottle of fluid close by. Open the slave bleeder and let the fluid flow while occasionally tapping the side of the slave with a heavy tool to dislodge air bubbles near the pushrod end. Keep watch on the reservoir so that it doesn't pull more air into the system. Keep it topped up. In your case, you would probably need to have someone watch the slave until fluid comes out. Once the system is full, let the fluid continue to flow. As it reaches the LOW fluid level, top it off again. Do this 2-3 times. Tap on the slave 4-5 times between refills. Then close the bleeder and bring the fluid level up to the FULL mark. No need to pump or compress the piston by using the pushrod.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 04-06-2013).]
I understand the difficulty compressing the slave pushrod when bleeding the slave. What I finally did was to unbolt the slave and use a ratcheting bar clamp to compress the slave BEFORE I began bleeding. I also used a speed bleeder on the slave bleeder (I got mine from Rodney, but a regular speed bleeder will work or make one from a one way valve and some clear tubing). With the pushrod compressed and the slave dangling from its flex line, the bleeder points up. Then bleed the line. When completely clear of bubbles, release the clamp holding the slave compressed and it will fill with bubble free fluid. Bolt back in place and you are done!
All one needs to do is jack up the drivers side several inches making the bleeder the high point of the slave and one will never get any air in the slave after you bleed the system. That is how I did mine. Worked 100%. No need for these other tricks.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
When I changed my 88 Mera from a automatic to a Getrag 5 speed I used a set of very low mileage like new OEM GM master and GM steel slave. I took them both completely apart and took the rubber seals off etc. I washed everything 100% and reassembled using the silicone fluid and then used silicone fluid. Has worked perfect for like 12+ years now. Pedal action is very smooth.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
