The smaller one. Remember if you plug off return, there is no way for the excess fuel to bleed off. You'll want to engage the fuel pump manually. Not with the ECM. Disconnect the fuel pump relay. You can jump it at the ALDL connector. Should be the tan/white(position C) wire and jumper to a hot. Cigarette lighter works . You could jumper at the relay but it is safer to keep any sparks in the car. Key off. You can look through the window for your gauge. You only want it on just enough to bring pressure up with the gauge on it. Very short burst. On too long will bring pressure way beyond what the system is designed for. Normally the first thing to go is the hose popping off the pump. Depending on your pump, the pressures can peg you gauge. Please make sure you have fire extinguisher around. You can get unexpected leaks. If not carefull things can get real bad real fast.
[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 01-02-2014).]
The smaller one. Remember if you plug off return, there is no way for the excess fuel to bleed off. You'll want to engage the fuel pump manually. Not with the ECM. Disconnect the fuel pump relay. You can jump it at the ALDL connector. Should be the tan/white(position C) wire and jumper to a hot. Cigarette lighter works . You could jumper at the relay but it is safer to keep any sparks in the car. Key off. You can look through the window for your gauge. You only want it on just enough to bring pressure up with the gauge on it. Very short burst. On too long will bring pressure way beyond what the system is designed for. Normally the first thing to go is the hose popping off the pump. Depending on your pump, the pressures can peg you gauge. Please make sure you have fire extinguisher around. You can get unexpected leaks. If not carefull things can get real bad real fast.
man... that sounds like nuclear engineering or a study on female psycology...
There is one more option. But you take a chance in ruining your return line hose under the battery. Have someone else key it on to prime. Take a pair of vise grips or channel locks to pinch closed the return line(smaller one) right after the pressure comes up. Like you can pinch off a brake line while taking a caliper off to keep the fluid from running out the master cylinder. Yes this is technically a no-no. On newer hoses this isn't that bad. On decades old hoses, well you get the picture. Before that however, try letting the pump prime a few times. All it takes is a minute piece of garbage(small grain of dirt) in the FPR to make it leak down. Pressuring it up and down a few times may dislodge it. If it is a chunk of old oring, it's not coming out.
okay, fuel pressure stays at 45 after priming and sits there for a minute. 40psi after 3min. 37.5psi after 5 min. and 35 after 7 min.
EDIT TO ADD> I have strong spark coming from the coil.
I have a working timing light (just tested on another vehicle), and tried to test out the ignition for spark, because something isn't firing right. its down a cylinder or something, maybe the spark is weak, I just checked and cleaned the spark plugs thinking it was that. But I got the same results. I dont see the timing light coming on at all when the motor is running, mind you I have to have the throttle up a little (1.5k) for it to stay running.
I'm going to do an ohms test on the pickup I have in there right now, it shows .845 after running a little. a new pickup I have here is reading .830 at the 2k setting, so it looks to be good. The ICM controls the spark output, and since I'm getting spark at the coil, I know its good.
most likely a cap and rotor though.
heres the ohms readings for the wires: coil to cap: 5.05 @ 20k ohm #1 6.45 #2 5.9 #3 6.3 #4 5.75 #5 9 #6 6.85
[This message has been edited by AL87 (edited 01-04-2014).]
Try you timing light on no. 4. Still will get tdc. Just 180 out at the cam. Still no light, it is not strong enough out of the distributor(rotor). Also try to pin it down to one cylinder. With insulated pliers, at the cap, pull wires off one at a time with it running. Each should drop RPMs. If one doesn't, that's the one.
Try you timing light on no. 4. Still will get tdc. Just 180 out at the cam. Still no light, it is not strong enough out of the distributor(rotor). Also try to pin it down to one cylinder. With insulated pliers, at the cap, pull wires off one at a time with it running. Each should drop RPMs. If one doesn't, that's the one.
I cant get my timing light to read spark on any wires, not even the one from the coil to the cap, I tested each wire with it as well. Before I could get back to test it by taking individual wires off, the car died and wouldn't fire back up. I ordered a cap and rotor and it should get here around Wednesday.
I got the cap and rotor today, and put it on. I got some plugs as well, but didn't put them on yet.
I started it and warmed it up.
I still cant check spark with the timing light, I tried using some insulated pliers to pull off the wires one at a time on the distributor, and the spark was so strong that it jumped to my hand, so I guess I'm getting good spark. (I tried this more than once, and got hit just about every time, lol) anyways... yeah. I don't know why the timing light doesn't want to read the spark in the wires... I'll have to go to a friend's place and try out his new timing light later to see if the issue was my light, or is in the ignition.
I have a code 22 and 45 so the ecm is saying the tps signal is lower than normal, and that the car is running rich... I will bend the tab back to the OE position, and reset everything later.
Has anything changed while trying to open the throttle? Better? Worse? More important, are you learning? And anytime that you are screwing with High Energy Ignition. Keep you other hand behind your back. The ignition IS going to find ground. If it finds ground through you, you want it to go down your arm, body and down your leg. The reason you keep your other hand behind your back, is if you have it resting on the car, it is going across your chest.
[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 01-07-2014).]
Has anything changed while trying to open the throttle? Better? Worse? More important, are you learning? And anytime that you are screwing with High Energy Ignition. Keep your other hand behind your back. The ignition IS going to find ground. If it finds ground through you, you want it to go down your arm, body and down your leg. The reason you keep your other hand behind your back, is if you have it resting on the car, it is going across your chest.
I'll have to see if anything has changed after I set the idle set screw for the throttlebody when I set the iac. learning about the spark? yeah. everything else? I learned not to trust my tach. and my timing light is poo.
what is frustrating at the moment is the motor dying, shifting in and out of gear sometimes. the car isn't acting quite like the video anymore, but if I give it wot from idle, it usually just cuts out without any stumbling.
but like I said, let me reset the idle stop screw and iac, and check for codes, then I'll get back to this.
EDIT: I set everything nice and proper, idles in gear at 850-950 throttle may be a little hesitant, still waiting for it to try to die-out on me during takeoff from a stop.
only code 45 at this point, ecm cant adjust?
has a hard time getting fired up. I have to crank and put some pedal into it to get it to fire. probably about 5 seconds.
[This message has been edited by AL87 (edited 01-11-2014).]
