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Quick Question about Front Shock Bolts - HELP by A4SixtyNineRR
Started on: 08-07-2012 06:41 PM
Replies: 13 (315 views)
Last post by: olejoedad on 10-28-2013 06:07 AM
A4SixtyNineRR
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Report this Post08-07-2012 06:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for A4SixtyNineRRClick Here to Email A4SixtyNineRRSend a Private Message to A4SixtyNineRREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey guys, I am in the process of changing my original rusty 1987 front shocks for a new set of KYB's. All of the bolts came out with no issue and the new shocks bolted right in. My question is, how tight should I tighten the lower shock bolt that passes through the sleeve and bushing? I originally tightened it down pretty snug on both sides, but realized that squeezes the mount together against the sleeve. I'm not sure if they are supposed to easily pivot in the mount or if they will just move as needed between the bushing and sleeve. Any advice would be great. I obviously don't want it too loose or the shock will rattle and the bolt could come out, but I also don't want to "lock" the front down so that it prematurely wears out the bushing. Thanks!!

[This message has been edited by A4SixtyNineRR (edited 08-07-2012).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post08-07-2012 07:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Tightening the lower mounting bolt simply puts pressure on the inner bushing sleeve. Give 'er hell (within prescribed limits).
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A4SixtyNineRR
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Report this Post08-07-2012 07:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for A4SixtyNineRRClick Here to Email A4SixtyNineRRSend a Private Message to A4SixtyNineRREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


Tightening the lower mounting bolt simply puts pressure on the inner bushing sleeve. Give 'er hell (within prescribed limits).


Great, thank you! I'm sure I was just overthinking it, but better safe than sorry. I hand cranked the hell out of them and eveything seem great. What a
HUGE difference new shocks make. I'm tackling the struts tomorrow... crossing my fingers they go as smoothly as the fronts. Thanks again!
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Spoon
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Report this Post08-07-2012 07:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's been so long since I replaced shocks but here's what I recall. I tightened the nut down until the rubber bushing started to mushroom-out. The nuts were of the self locking type so no fear of them backing off. In other words they go on tight from the get go so you can stop at the proper squeeze factor.

Maybe the later crowd will chime in with better info.

Spoon

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Patrick
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Report this Post08-07-2012 07:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Spoon:

It's been so long since I replaced shocks but here's what I recall. I tightened the nut down until the rubber bushing started to mushroom-out. The nuts were of the self locking type so no fear of them backing off. In other words they go on tight from the get go so you can stop at the proper squeeze factor.


No no no... the metal inner sleeve of the bushing prevents the rubber from distorting.

 
quote
Originally posted by A4SixtyNineRR:

I'm tackling the struts tomorrow... crossing my fingers they go as smoothly as the fronts.


Replacing the rear struts is a MUCH more difficult job than the front shocks. Make sure you soak the two big bolts (and nuts) on each strut tonight with penetrating fluid. You'll thank me tomorrow!
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Report this Post08-07-2012 07:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You will probably need an alignment too. I've gotten pretty close with the eyeball method but never felt totally comfortable that I had the struts lined up well enough.
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A4SixtyNineRR
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Report this Post08-07-2012 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for A4SixtyNineRRClick Here to Email A4SixtyNineRRSend a Private Message to A4SixtyNineRREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Replacing the rear struts is a MUCH more difficult job than the front shocks. Make sure you soak the two big bolts (and nuts) on each strut tonight with penetrating fluid. You'll thank me tomorrow!


Ohhh I'm already A** deep into it with the struts. I had shot them with penatrating oil about an hour before I started and I was actually able to get both large nuts free. The top big bolt came out with no problems, but the bottom big bolt is frozen in place. I used a breaker bar with a ratchet and it actually snapped the internal gear in the ratchet. I then got pissed and started hammer the end to push it through... with no luck... althought I have now messed up the end of the threads and can't get a nut back on it. Off to the store to pick up a can of propane for my torch and hoping some heat will free it up. Why didn't I just let the shop do it for $150?? LOL Oh well, its a learning experience and will hopefully give me some satisfaction IF I get it done. UGH!

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Patrick
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Report this Post08-07-2012 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by A4SixtyNineRR:

I had shot them with penatrating oil about an hour before I started...


I think you've discovered that penetrating oil needs to soak in for a little longer than an hour.
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Patrick
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Report this Post08-10-2012 12:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Not going so well?
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A4SixtyNineRR
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Report this Post08-10-2012 01:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for A4SixtyNineRRClick Here to Email A4SixtyNineRRSend a Private Message to A4SixtyNineRREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


Not going so well?


Things are much better now. I good soak with pb blaster, a torch to heat the bolts, and a 4' breaker bar all helped to get the struts off. I'm doIng a little blasting and repainting before I reassemble. I did damage the threads on one of the big bolts when I was beating the crap out of it, but I had a few spares from my extra cradle. Replacing my rusted cradle with my better one will be the project for next week. Wish me luck because I'm going to try to leave the drivetrain in the car and just swap the cradle. I've been reading up and I think I can do it. Guess we'll see soon enough
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Austrian Import
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Report this Post08-10-2012 01:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
try Kroil, I fell in love with this stuff. It picks up where PB Blaster leaves off.
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Patrick
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Report this Post08-10-2012 03:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by A4SixtyNineRR:

Things are much better now. I good soak with pb blaster, a torch to heat the bolts, and a 4' breaker bar all helped to get the struts off.



I suspected you'd have some fun with those struts.

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jim94
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Report this Post10-27-2013 11:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jim94Click Here to Email jim94Send a Private Message to jim94Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have found to not put too much pressure on the lower bushing to tighten the bolt when the tire is on the ground .
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olejoedad
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Report this Post10-28-2013 06:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by A4SixtyNineRR:

Replacing my rusted cradle with my better one will be the project for next week. Wish me luck because I'm going to try to leave the drivetrain in the car and just swap the cradle. I've been reading up and I think I can do it. Guess we'll see soon enough


With the proper bridge to hold up the drivetrain, this is by far the easiest way to change out your cradle.

[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 10-28-2013).]

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