Hey guys, I am in the process of changing my original rusty 1987 front shocks for a new set of KYB's. All of the bolts came out with no issue and the new shocks bolted right in. My question is, how tight should I tighten the lower shock bolt that passes through the sleeve and bushing? I originally tightened it down pretty snug on both sides, but realized that squeezes the mount together against the sleeve. I'm not sure if they are supposed to easily pivot in the mount or if they will just move as needed between the bushing and sleeve. Any advice would be great. I obviously don't want it too loose or the shock will rattle and the bolt could come out, but I also don't want to "lock" the front down so that it prematurely wears out the bushing. Thanks!!
[This message has been edited by A4SixtyNineRR (edited 08-07-2012).]
Tightening the lower mounting bolt simply puts pressure on the inner bushing sleeve. Give 'er hell (within prescribed limits).
Great, thank you! I'm sure I was just overthinking it, but better safe than sorry. I hand cranked the hell out of them and eveything seem great. What a HUGE difference new shocks make. I'm tackling the struts tomorrow... crossing my fingers they go as smoothly as the fronts. Thanks again!
It's been so long since I replaced shocks but here's what I recall. I tightened the nut down until the rubber bushing started to mushroom-out. The nuts were of the self locking type so no fear of them backing off. In other words they go on tight from the get go so you can stop at the proper squeeze factor.
Maybe the later crowd will chime in with better info.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
It's been so long since I replaced shocks but here's what I recall. I tightened the nut down until the rubber bushing started to mushroom-out. The nuts were of the self locking type so no fear of them backing off. In other words they go on tight from the get go so you can stop at the proper squeeze factor.
No no no... the metal inner sleeve of the bushing prevents the rubber from distorting.
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Originally posted by A4SixtyNineRR:
I'm tackling the struts tomorrow... crossing my fingers they go as smoothly as the fronts.
Replacing the rear struts is a MUCH more difficult job than the front shocks. Make sure you soak the two big bolts (and nuts) on each strut tonight with penetrating fluid. You'll thank me tomorrow!
You will probably need an alignment too. I've gotten pretty close with the eyeball method but never felt totally comfortable that I had the struts lined up well enough.
Replacing the rear struts is a MUCH more difficult job than the front shocks. Make sure you soak the two big bolts (and nuts) on each strut tonight with penetrating fluid. You'll thank me tomorrow!
Ohhh I'm already A** deep into it with the struts. I had shot them with penatrating oil about an hour before I started and I was actually able to get both large nuts free. The top big bolt came out with no problems, but the bottom big bolt is frozen in place. I used a breaker bar with a ratchet and it actually snapped the internal gear in the ratchet. I then got pissed and started hammer the end to push it through... with no luck... althought I have now messed up the end of the threads and can't get a nut back on it. Off to the store to pick up a can of propane for my torch and hoping some heat will free it up. Why didn't I just let the shop do it for $150?? LOL Oh well, its a learning experience and will hopefully give me some satisfaction IF I get it done. UGH!
Things are much better now. I good soak with pb blaster, a torch to heat the bolts, and a 4' breaker bar all helped to get the struts off. I'm doIng a little blasting and repainting before I reassemble. I did damage the threads on one of the big bolts when I was beating the crap out of it, but I had a few spares from my extra cradle. Replacing my rusted cradle with my better one will be the project for next week. Wish me luck because I'm going to try to leave the drivetrain in the car and just swap the cradle. I've been reading up and I think I can do it. Guess we'll see soon enough
Replacing my rusted cradle with my better one will be the project for next week. Wish me luck because I'm going to try to leave the drivetrain in the car and just swap the cradle. I've been reading up and I think I can do it. Guess we'll see soon enough
With the proper bridge to hold up the drivetrain, this is by far the easiest way to change out your cradle.
[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 10-28-2013).]
