Rubber bushings are not good for a performance car, and Pontiac fixed that by solid-mounting the '88 cradles. I have a set of Rodney's bushings, but haven't installed them yet (corrosion isn't as big of a deal in Texas though).
------------------ My project: 3800 Series III Supercharged + F40 6-speed into an 87 GT. Wish me luck!
Electrolysis is not an issue. Plain old rust will get the steel long before the aluminum has any influence. Now, if you park your car in a foot of water there may be some electrolysis problems. You will find that the car will ride harder, but you probably don't care about that.
Thanks. And no, Im not worried about if it rides a little harder.
I plan on just going through the car over the next few months, and making sure its mechanically sound. If I can upgrade to something like a hard mounted cradle while I already have things apart, and I can swing it, then that's what I'll do.
[This message has been edited by Stainless1911 (edited 05-26-2012).]
I've had aluminum cradle bushings in my '87 Fiero since 2004. There have been no issues with electrolysis. But in order for electrolysis to happen, the parts would need to stay wet for long periods of time. So I don't think it's a concern.
That said, the aluminum cradle bushings will make the rear end feel more stable in a turn. The impact on ride quality is hardly noticeable, if at all.
Aluminum cradle bushings are great but the question becomes, are they that much better than poly? Will you obtain any noticeable difference in performance between aluminum and poly? I have been using the Prothane poly cradle bushings and have been quite happy with the performance. The car stays straight under hard acceleration and the alignment stays in place. I cannot see any negatives in using aluminum cradle bushings except that they are 2X the price and IMO probably don't give much if any additional performance.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
How do you know? Can you read a camber gauge on your outside rear wheel in the middle of a highly loaded corner?
You never measure alignment with the car running. It is always measured with the car sitting still and in my case the alignment stays put. Surely a talented highly skilled mechanic like yourself knows this,.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
You never measure alignment with the car running. It is always measured with the car sitting still and in my case the alignment stays put. Surely a talented highly skilled mechanic like yourself knows this,.
And the "doesn't get it" award goes to...
Do I really have to belabor it *that* much?
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 05-27-2012).]
I've got a set (not Rodney's ) on my 85 and it does make it handle better, not a lot but it is better. Just that bit less to flex/move. Of course, it'd be better if I replaced ALL the rubber suspension stuff with new or poly but other things to do first, like fix the ruddy a/c and paint and......(endless list!).
Originally posted by Stainless1911: First thing that I thought of,m is that aluminum and steel don't mix, electrolysis corrosion through dissimilar metals.
Depend on you live in road salt states and drive in winter.... Coatings, anodize etc, can affect the issue too. Maybe you can seal al "bushings" and sleeve so water can't get inside the sleeve.
Using stock and some engine/trans swaps polly is very good.
Using polly cradle bushings and premium gas shock & struts stops or reduces many problem, including "Bump Steer."
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
This is what happens to winter cars... the rear of the car was not very well placed, and you could move the whole cradle with your foot when it was in the air. I would put as much support on the suspension as you can get. It makes a difference how your tires move in slippery conditions. That car was a beast to drive n snow, but I managed.
I better go with poly, you might not believe this, but I got it for a winter car.
Rodney's bushing are anodized, they won't corrode. Put some grease on the bolt when you assemble them. I think poly is a waste, you want the cradle rigid.
I have a 3800sc swap with al cradle bushings and poly motor mounts and a solid dog bone. I feel no different vibrations driving compared to my 3.4 but at idle (about 750rpm) the whole car vibrates. At about 900 it doesn't do it anymore. I've just gotten used to it since I know it was all the changes I did that caused it.
I'd say go for aluminum since they will also probably never wear out even if they are more expensive
Originally posted by mcain1: Has anyone used the aluminum bushing with a 3800 swap? If so, do you feel anymore vibration when driving as compared to before?
That can depend on trans used. Auto trans load entire drive train all the time, including at idle. Harder/solid mounts and/or dog bone can and will vibrate more at idle. Most Dukes will vibrate allot then some others. (88 Duke w/ crank balance assm vibrate less I'm told.)
Drive around is not a big problem for most cars for added noise/vibration.
