Any clearance issues? Whats left until we can here this baby purrrrr. Boy i wish you were closer, id love to be apart of a swap before i decide to get my own started.
The bad thing is I am having so much fun building this car a am ready to do another one. The only problem is if I bought another one I think I might find myself divorced. lol
I would like to get some input from you guys. When I get the car up and running I plan on painting the car, I originally wanted to paint it yellow bcause I thought that color looks awesome on the fiero's, However after seeing so many of then done in yellow I wonder if I should just paint it the original color (black), keep the plan to paint it yellow, or maybe another color altogrther. There are only a couple of fiero's around where I am at and they are either sitting in weeds or bone stock, so the yellow is not totally out of the question.
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 06-02-2012).]
I still have to have an alignment done and a few other little things but, here is a video for you guys. Let me know what you think. I also apologize for acting a little goofy in the video, I may have been a little excited. LOL
EDIT: Problems with video sound. Reposted new video below.
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 06-05-2012).]
Good news and bad news. The good , I LOVE THIS CAR!!!! I have got to drive it around for a couple of days and it is very quick. It handles like a dream, I can not believe how good it feels in a corner. Has got to be the coolest thing I have ever drove. Now for the bad news . The motor started to knock today, and it sounded like it was coming from the lower end of the motor. I did not go through the bottom end of the motor because it ran good in the previous car. Hide sight being what it is now, I wish I would have. As it would turn out after pulling the oil pan, I have a spun rod bearing. Things are about to get interesting, because after driving this car I loved it so much I am most definitly going to fix it and probably inprove the strenght of the motor via rod bolts, main studs, etc. I will keep you guys posted.
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 06-06-2012).]
I dropped the motor out tonight tonight with the help of my wife . Then I seperated it from the trans and got it up on the engine stand. I am planning on having it to the machinist before the weekend.
ughhh, im sorry to hear about the lower end knock =( At least you have the swap complete so putting her all back together should be a snap.
oh and about color. im thinking of going pearl white with mine, BMW makes a really nice pearl white. Good luck and keep the updates comming! Oh ya, and those brakes are looking GREAT. i was thinking about doing a corvette swap like most of the other fiero guys but i hear there are some mods that have to be done and you may sacrifice your Ebrake for it...have to do some searching.
To answer 1911. It was the # 5 rod bearing. Rod is bad, crank is bad, and the piston came in contact with the head so I will need a new one of those too. Building it back bullet proof, ordered arp rod bolts, main studs, and head studs. Zz performance sold me good used crank for $250 and a new rod and piston for $50. By the way I like the screen name 1911.
I got the arp fasteners in, along with all my bearings. Also ordered cometic head gaskets and the SI stainless valves offered through zzperformance. Talked to the machinest and for and extra $60 he is going to port and polish the heads. Because to much is never enough. LOL
I got the arp fasteners in, along with all my bearings. Also ordered cometic head gaskets and the SI stainless valves offered through zzperformance. Talked to the machinest and for and extra $60 he is going to port and polish the heads. Because to much is never enough. LOL
Too much power, and your trans is going to hate you. IMO, a GOOD used long block would be the best option in this order L36,L67,L32,L26. Stay with stock head gaskets as the cosmetic are very hard to seal, unless you are going to have more than 20+ psi stock is the way to go. Well at least follow ZZP method and use copper spray but I have heard others that used it and still had sealing issues.
Some performance parts are overated as the Series II engine is a beast in stock form. I am learning the $$$ way that 90% stock parts + turbo is the way to go on these motors.
[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 06-13-2012).]
I'm curious what you used for coolant etc hoses... I'm doing a similar swap (S1 SC in 85 Convertible), and that's one thing I never see in swap threads is the list of all the 'little' parts that make it all come together... also, I'm curious, I saw where you routed the ECM wiring around the pass side strut tower, and I was wondering if there was any clearance issues with your low-mounted alt there?
I was also considering true dual exhaust, but I was leaning more towards running the rear thru the stock muffler location and exiting driver side, and the front being thru the cat location, and exiting pass side... I'm surprised that yours is so quiet without the mufflers on there, lol... did you ever do a vid with them on?
------------------ 1986 Fiero SE 2.8 Auto - Blackie 1985 Fiero GT 2.8 4-spd - Goldie II - To be driveable this season 1985 Fiero SE Targa - 3.8SC - long term project 1987 Cavalier Z24 2.8 5-spd - daily beaten driver 1993 Bonneville SSEi - 3800SC donor for 85 Targa
[This message has been edited by 85red2m6 (edited 06-14-2012).]
I already bought the cometic gaskets from zzp and copper spray. If I have any problems I will let you guys know, but steve at zzp told me as long as I use the spray on block, heads, and both sides of gaskets that I shouldn't have any problems with it sealing. As far as power goes a though having the heads done couldn't hurt anything. I am only running a 3.4 pulley and a comp VS cam. I am installing better lifters, springs, and push rods, but those should just help with longevity of the motor. I am not trying to go to crazy with power, but for $60 I though it might be a good purchase for a few extra horses. As for the coolent hoses, I am using the drivers side tube with hose joints and thermo housing from WCF and a universal flex hose with and adapter on the passenger side. There wasn't any clearance issues with my lower mount alt and the harness, it actually had a lot more room than I originally expected. Unfortunately the test drive without the mufflers is when it began to knock. When I get it going agian I will post another vid w/o mufflers and one with mufflers so you can make a direct comparison. If you guys have any other question, comments, or know of things that I need to wtch out for I would love hear from you. Thanks, Ben
Thats beautiful. Wish i could figure out how to do half that stuff, I would have my own "big engine" swap.
It''s all nuts and bolts. You have the resources here to help out when you get stuck. With a project like this, all you have to do, is start the project, and do something each day.
MLS gaskets suck. Run some felpros on it and keep your timing under 20 degrees... I have to go cometic because I feel the need to run 30psi of boost out of a big turbo.
you've actually done an "original swap". putting the engine fuse box in the ECM location is a great idea! and taking the engine apart after fully finishing the swap just to make sure everything is perfect. You're just like me!!!
as for the "true dual exhaust" - YOU ROCK!!!! making the rear powerlog is SWEET!!! I just think the flow may be slightly less than the front due to the tight curve. but it sure beats stock, or ported manifolds.
I got the motor back. I had the block and heads squared up, had the block honed, and all mains checked. I had all the rods resized, new cam bearings pressed in, and all new brass freeze plugs installed. My machinest installed new valve guides, new SI stainless steel valves, and port and polished the heads. After getting the parts back I started assembly. Here is a couple of picks of the bottom end after I installed pistons with new bearing and all ARP fasters for rods and main caps.
Got a chance to get a little more done. Started on the heads and the first thing I took pics of is the head studs. Don't ask me why, I just think they look awsome. Looking at the studs sticking out of the block make it look like a serious monster of a motor.
Put the heads on and torqued everything down. Installed balancing shaft,cam, timing chain, and timing gears. Now it is starting to like something again!
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 06-20-2012).]
It has been a couple of days since my last post but I have got alot of things done. I finished putting the motor toget her and attached it back to the trans and cradle. Here are some pics of the progress.
I had somewhere around 2800 views and now it only shows around 70. Does anyone know what happened?
EDIT: after posting this everything returned to normal. Wierd????
Yeah, I've seen it do that on all of them. It happens when a thread gets moved up to the first thread of a new listing page.
Nice build, you will have permagrin every time you open your garage door when you get it running.
I did mine in black, I still have to do the tires and rims in black. I'm gonna go with Motegi Track Lites I think and some Nitto drag radials. I did dual dogbones because I plan on modding it heavily.
I haven't posted for a couple of days, but I have been getting alot done. I got all the old insulation off of the firewall and replaced it with two layers of 1/4 thick mighty matt that I bought off of ebay. Was only going to do one, but I had lots of extra material and figured it couldn't hurt.
I also got he motor in the car and got it running for the second time. LOL. If it helps anyone out the mighty matt for ebay is awesome, it killed a lot of the sound in the cab of the car and that is saying alot becuase it still does not have any mufflers. I will try to post video of car running soon.
nice!
. The motor started to knock today, and it sounded like it was coming from the lower end of the motor. I did not go through the bottom end of the motor because it ran good in the previous car. Hide sight being what it is now, I wish I would have. As it would turn out after pulling the oil pan, I have a spun rod bearing. Things are about to get interesting, because after driving this car I loved it so much I am most definitly going to fix it and probably inprove the strenght of the motor via rod bolts, main studs, etc. I will keep you guys posted.
