To start with thanks to everyone who posts stuff on here. This site is amazing help! I read a bunch but have never posted anything yet. I am rebuilding a 84 coupe with a stock 4 banger and a Muncie 4 speed. Now one of the many problems. CLUTCH OMG this thing sucks ! I have read many posts and Googled hundreds of things but I still dont quite get this thing. The problem is no disengagement . Will not go into gear unless you start it in gear. I have a new clutch pedal and master cyd ordered. Have already put on a new slave. The slave was froze when I bought this and the master cyd had a slighly bent push rod. The pedal actually looks ok but its aluminum so I though what the hell replace it too. If anyone close to me has a manual 4 speed it would be cool to look at it and see at what point the clutch fork arm actually travels till it disingadges on one that works . I've looked at many pictures but would love to see one actually working for reference. I can drive to someone if their willing to help. I'm in Muncie IN . Thanks and sorry for the book I just wrote.
Well, I will start the questions: how much travel are you getting out of the slave? Do you get any improvement by pumping the clutch pedal? Finally, is your clutch pedal about an inch higher than your brake pedal?
Answers to those might help solve it remotely (IN is a bit far from NY to actually take a look!)
Larry I tore it apart , No I Did'nt sit it on a train track ......Yet LOL . But the pedal was lower than the brake . When I took loose the Master cyd pushrod it then returned higher than the brake. The master Cyd pushrod was bent more than I thought . Probably from someone trying to force it when the slave was froze. So that will help with the new pedal and master cyd I'm sure. Should be here early next week and I will give it a try and get some mesurements and hopefully it will just work , and the batter is dead now must have a shorted cell reads 2.5 volts and won't charge resets the charger when I try So about 200 bucks and a few days with profanities . I will post back when I get parts installed Thanks
PS this car project was something to do on my days off to relax me , Not working out so far .
Sounds like the new clutch pedal will take care of your problem. I hope you got the new plastic bushings that go with it. The old ones will most likely be in sad shape.
Clutch master cylinder and new Fiero store pedal with bushings installed and it works perfect . Even goes into gear at a cold idle, even reverse! No grinding shifts great and lights the tires though 2rd gear . Now, Wow I love this car. Never drove one before. Very happy today got to drive it a couple of miles though our oval neighborhood . No brakes though all rotors are off so a bit tricky did not get over 30 mph. Gearing down stops it fine. but the wife pooped her pants when she got home . So no driving , Well that she knows of till I get the brake parts in . Only problem was the pushrod to the master clyinder would not fot completly on the clutch pedal stud. Called The Fiero Store they said sand down the stud . Ok not easy to do . Wish I would have known that before I put on the pedal . So I'm going to try that today . Thanks for the advise folks . Many more questions to come .
Only problem was the pushrod to the master clyinder would not fot completly on the clutch pedal stud. Called The Fiero Store they said sand down the stud . Ok not easy to do . .
something not right there.....are you talkin about the Banjo? As I recall there are 2 different sizes of pin.
Gall is right. There was a modified pin that came out in later years. It is a stepped pin. Different bushings than the 84. Also, for the uninitiated, the curl of the banjo rod goes upward when you install it onto the pedal. Like this.
Yep it's the Banjo. I bet you guys are right . The master clyinder came from Advance Auto. Still have'nt done anything with that yet. Been working on the brakes. What do you guys recommend . The Fiero Store says that they have seen this several times and just sand it down a bit.
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