Tried to race someone today and I can't do a quick 3-4 shift. It feels like it goes in half way then kicks out when I let the clutch out. Any other time it goes in fine without grinding or anything. I can't recreate what is happening under normal shifting conditions either. Only happens on a fast shift into 4th. All other gears go in fine. Any ideas?
Otherwise everything's seems to be going good. Drove it ~150 miles while convoying to a few car meets.
Definitely check the appropriate travel first. Remember that bracket or cable flex can limit the travel when you're pulling hard on the shifter, even if you don't have any problems during normal driving.
How's the powershift into 3rd treating you? 4th is the "pull" shift on the cable, but 3rd is the "push" shift... I'm wondering if you're bending the unsupported length of rod in the 3rd shift and then straightening it out on the 4th gear shift.
How's the powershift into 3rd treating you? 4th is the "pull" shift on the cable, but 3rd is the "push" shift... I'm wondering if you're bending the unsupported length of rod in the 3rd shift and then straightening it out on the 4th gear shift.
I suggested that to some degree as well, the cable pushes across the plane of the shift arm at a diagonal.
I sometimes have the same issue with 3rd and 5th, sometimes I have to firmly shift and hold it there with my hand while I let the clutch out, or it'll grind/pop out.
I'm wondering if it has something to do with the shifter arm. Where it connects to the shaft there is a roll pin that holds it in. There is movement, like a titling action. It moves the same amount of both transmission so I assume it's supposed to wiggle. I'm thinking there could be a bind if tilts one way while shifting hard.
Figured it out. The top bolt that I have going through the counterweight was too long and sticking out of the other side. It must have come in contact with something on a hard shift. All better now
I think my car sounds louder now and even drones a bit. Its gotta be because it's mounted all more rigid than before.
I think my car sounds louder now and even drones a bit. Its gotta be because it's mounted all more rigid than before.
Good, when are you going to the Track... Let's see if you can get that 10 sec slip.
Slap on a resenator tip, bigger muffler, or sumpthin as that 3800 Drone sound is Weak Sauce. Haven't you learned anything the the 3800 vs V8 threads, Grasshoppa ???
It sounds nothing like a 3800sc... I can just tell that the vibration is resonating inside now. I haven't done anything too crazy with it yet. I have the boost knocked down a few psi waiting for my clutch to start working again. It likes to slip in 4th right now. It was working great when I took it to the track last fall and before the 282 busted. I'm hoping I can find a deal on a twin disk or something.
It's still doing good. No problems so far. I blew a head gasket earlier this week at the worst possible time. I just got it back running again tonight.
Looks like I have some bad news. The trans has been making a whirrel/whine sound for awhile now. It would only make noise under load and decel in gear. It seemed to be getting worse so I pulled it out tonight. While I was splitting the case I could hear things clicking around as it was coming apart.
Do you think I can save if by taking the roller bearing and that carrier thing from the other F23 into this one. Do you think I can polish the intermediate shaft enough so it doesn't destroy the new bearings? All the gears look fantastic.
[This message has been edited by Justinbart (edited 04-22-2013).]
Damn, sucks that it was the fy1 shaft too. Idk how I would feel about running those bearings on an unhardened surface. Simple fix is put the old diff back in it
If I found the right size, do you think it would be possible to press a ball bearing like this onto the intermediate shaft or is that just crazy? I'm thinking that I going to need something stronger.
I just looked thru my pictures and the opposite side of that shaft gets pressed in to a roller bearing. The od of the shaft of the opposite side is much smaller however. I can't remember exactly but the bearing od may be similar. Also, consider the bearing that you have to press out to pull the bell off, for comparison.
Keep us posted if you come up with an upgrade. I'm planning on picking up a couple of F23's and making a hybrid one of these days, and I'd rather it not suffer a similar fate,,,
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
I picked up another FY1 today so I can get the car back on the road by the weekend. Hopefully I can figure something out so I can save this broken one. I just don't know how that intermediate shaft is going to play with a new bearing. I wonder if I could mill it and put a harder collar over it... I'll deal with that when the car is out of the garage. Maybe it was just a freak thing or at least I hope it lasts until winter again.
I don't see that being an issue if everything else was in spec. I assume none of the shims were checked, I didn't bother on mine, nor were any of the tolerances. Also, I'd put the case together with the anaerobic gasket maker and not rtv, as there will be a few thou thickness difference. I don't know how much this contributed, but I'd try to get as close to factory as possible.
Do you think I can save if by taking the roller bearing and that carrier thing from the other F23 into this one. Do you think I can polish the intermediate shaft enough so it doesn't destroy the new bearings? All the gears look fantastic.
No. The bearing surface on the output shaft is trashed. You need to replace that shaft as well as the race and retainer in the case, and obviously the rollers and cage.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 04-24-2013).]
If I found the right size, do you think it would be possible to press a ball bearing like this onto the intermediate shaft or is that just crazy? I'm thinking that I going to need something stronger.
No. A ball bearing will have a much lower radial load capacity than the roller you already destroyed.
I just looked thru my pictures and the opposite side of that shaft gets pressed in to a roller bearing. The od of the shaft of the opposite side is much smaller however. I can't remember exactly but the bearing od may be similar. Also, consider the bearing that you have to press out to pull the bell off, for comparison.
The bearing you fragged sees much higher loading than the bearing at the other end due to the separation loads from the final drive mesh.
No. The bearing surface on the output shaft is trashed. You need to replace that shaft as well as the race and retainer in the case, and obviously the rollers and cage.
Yeah I figured.
I went to a GM dealer parts counter and got a part number for the roller bearing and cup/race. They come as a pair for $53. Part number 93334160. He said it showed unavailable and would have to send a request. I see there are places online that sell it.
A few posts up I said it was the intermediate shaft but it's actually the main shaft.
I took some measurements if anyone comes up with a stronger solution. This is from the new FY1 I just got.
Looks like I forgot a few measurements I wanted to get.
There is no shoulder at the end of the shaft. I went looking through my old pics and it seems my old bearing was showing wear too... I have pics of the new bearing, there are no marks on it. Maybe this is a potential weak point?
edit, had to shrink the pic down because it kept saying over 300k. That seriously needs to get raised to perhaps 500k. Decided just to crop it
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 04-25-2013).]
Let's see if you can get that 10 sec slip.
onto the intermediate shaft or is that just crazy? I'm thinking that I going to need something stronger. 
I'll also feel relived if its not a week point and just user error. 
