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Thermostat Housing 3800 by IIKool
Started on: 01-01-2012 10:36 AM
Replies: 17 (2132 views)
Last post by: mitchjl22 on 12-14-2013 03:12 AM
IIKool
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Report this Post01-01-2012 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IIKoolClick Here to Email IIKoolSend a Private Message to IIKoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I need some help, When my 3800SC was installed he didn't install a T housing. Why do some people install one and some people don't? I also noted that some have taken the small hose bib off of the T housing and some don't? Why? Also can someone show where and how the lines are connected. I hope who ever these img. belong to don't mind me using them.




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Report this Post01-01-2012 10:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by IIKool:

When my 3800SC was installed he didn't install a T housing. Why do some people install one and some people don't? I also noted that some have taken the small hose bib off of the T housing and some don't?


Because we don't live in a state of totalitarianism.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post01-01-2012 11:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The purpose of the thermostat housing is to provide a high fill point for the cooling system. The reason for the hose bib is that some prefer to put the heater core feed there. I prefer to put in at the connection to the LIM over the water pump. This is just another approach.

------------------
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raccoons
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Report this Post01-01-2012 11:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for raccoonsSend a Private Message to raccoonsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by IIKool:

I need some help, When my 3800SC was installed he didn't install a T housing. Why do some people install one and some people don't? I also noted that some have taken the small hose bib off of the T housing and some don't? Why? Also can someone show where and how the lines are connected. I hope who ever these img. belong to don't mind me using them.


Does your engine have something like this?


These are 3800 thermostat housings, your pictures show Fiero thermostat housings that have been modified to fit the 3800. On the Fiero ones, the large opening goes to the radiator (via the driver's side coolant tube), and the smaller opening goes to the heater core inlet.
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MstangsBware
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Report this Post01-01-2012 11:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareClick Here to Email MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The small nipple is used for one of the heater core lines...Depending on what year and how you wanna runs your heater core deplicts if you use that nipple or not....On 87/88s I run the modded housing with the nipple as there is only a supply heater core line needed and it works out well. On 86 down I will also use it with the nipple depending on the rest of the setup and where the car is going...If I use it on 86 down then I run the other heater core line to the plastic elbow that runs into the LIM and make a bracket to hold it in. For the longest time I did not run a thermostat until the cold weather was around then I would stick one in. Really saw no differance in the summer time with it in or out.....

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phonedawgz
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Report this Post01-01-2012 11:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So bottom line is you have to have some way to fill coolant at the engine. Your engine also has to have some way to circulate coolant through your heater core. You need to have a thermostat at the outlet to keep the coolant from circulating to the radiator until the correct operating temperature is reached in the engine. After that the thermostat needs to open and circulate coolant to the radiator. Beyond those requirements the way it is done is up to the builder.

The Fiero type thermostat housing is more elegant than using a hose fill point IMNSHO, but either will work.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 01-15-2013).]

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fieroall
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Report this Post01-01-2012 02:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroallSend a Private Message to fieroallEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MstangsBware:

The small nipple is used for one of the heater core lines...Depending on what year and how you wanna runs your heater core deplicts if you use that nipple or not....On 87/88s I run the modded housing with the nipple as there is only a supply heater core line needed and it works out well. On 86 down I will also use it with the nipple depending on the rest of the setup and where the car is going...If I use it on 86 down then I run the other heater core line to the plastic elbow that runs into the LIM and make a bracket to hold it in. For the longest time I did not run a thermostat until the cold weather was around then I would stick one in. Really saw no differance in the summer time with it in or out.....


Is that info the same between the V6 and the I4 Duke? Thanks.

[This message has been edited by fieroall (edited 01-01-2012).]

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MstangsBware
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Report this Post01-01-2012 03:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareClick Here to Email MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by fieroall:


Is that info the same between the V6 and the I4 Duke? Thanks.



Yes
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fierofan25
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Report this Post01-15-2013 01:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofan25Click Here to Email fierofan25Send a Private Message to fierofan25Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Was looking for something on ebay and found this. I wonder if the bolt holes would line up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271109922868
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post01-15-2013 06:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

It lacks the flange for the thermostat to sit in. It looks like the thermostat would not fit with the temp sensor installed. It looks like the thermostat might not even fit with the temp sensor removed.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 01-15-2013).]

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FIEROFLYER
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Report this Post01-15-2013 09:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FIEROFLYERSend a Private Message to FIEROFLYEREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
An adapter of some sort to use this thermostat housing would do the job making the coolant fill and bleeding easier and a second location for a coolant sensor. I will definitely look into this further. Thanks for the info. Dan
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Report this Post01-15-2013 10:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofan25:

Was looking for something on ebay and found this. I wonder if the bolt holes would line up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271109922868


Two comments, one it may not fit, and two, the nipple on this one looks like its for coolant overflow not to feed the heater core. The heater core supply bung needs to be placed below the thermostat so that it is not effected by it in the closed position. At least that's what I understand.

Rob
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post01-15-2013 10:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezClick Here to Email Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I use a Fiero V-6 modded housing without the heater output most the time, your first pic is one i made. I run the heater core direct from the water pump and lower intake manifold. If they are keeping the stock alternator bracket then I just use the heater ouputs off it. On 87-88's I block off the return on the water pump.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post01-15-2013 11:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
+1 on that you can go with the heater hose nipple on or off of the housing.

+1 on that you need to have no 'overflow' outlet at the cap. The Fiero thermostat housing cap has no pressure release components. It only seals at the top of the housing flange. Any overflow on the thermostat housing would not work. A higher pressure than the radiator cap pressure would not work as a substitute to blocking off the overflow, since the cap is designed to allow flow back into the system from the overflow line. What would happen is when your engine is cool, engine coolant that is higher than the radiator would flow to your radiator, being replaced with the inlet of air. The coolant would then leak out of your radiator overflow tank.



Note also - you need to have the bottom half of your thermostat in, or quite close to the engine block, or have flow through the bottom of your thermostat housing. The one above is close to the block and should work fairly normal.



This one with it's heater outlet at the bottom of the thermostat allows coolant to flow past the bottom of the thermostat allowing it to work. Coolant always flows through the interior heater core, even with the A/C on, and the heater knob set to cold. The heater box adjusts the temp by diverting air around the hot heater core, or through the hot heater core.

----
Also - if for whatever reason you feel the need to move the CTS/Gauge to a location past the thermostat, you need to consider the problems it will cause. If the Coolant Temperature Sensor (used by the PCM) is past the thermostat, your engine won't run right when the engine is warming up, before the thermostat opens. If the gauge sender is past the thermostat and your thermostat fails closed, your engine would be running hot, but your gauge would show cold.

bottom line - keep the combo CTS/Gauge sender (aka 3 pin CTS) in the stock location and it will work correctly.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 01-15-2013).]

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PaulJK
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Report this Post01-15-2013 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PaulJKSend a Private Message to PaulJKEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Mike, PM sent.
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fierofan25
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Report this Post01-15-2013 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofan25Click Here to Email fierofan25Send a Private Message to fierofan25Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
does anyone still sell the V-6 modded housings. I was looking for an off the self part. I have found a few, but none that works as good as the stock fiero one. Thanks
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Report this Post01-15-2013 09:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofan25:

does anyone still sell the V-6 modded housings. I was looking for an off the self part. I have found a few, but none that works as good as the stock fiero one. Thanks


West Coast Fiero makes them or can mod yours if you send it to them.

Look for the link in the engine swap section of their webpage

RJ


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mitchjl22
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Report this Post12-14-2013 03:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mitchjl22Click Here to Email mitchjl22Send a Private Message to mitchjl22Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What size hose goes on the heater core feed?
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