I'm in the same boat trying to figure out motor mounts, I'm using a stock fiero 2.8 front mount, some kind of mount near the back of the engine (rear left of the car) and probably a torque-strut with an over limit strap.
well maybe neophile_17 and i can get together soon and figure out a mount solution... when we do, pics will be posted
right now im looking into exhaust, and asfor the ecu mounting, right now, ive made a birdsnest of the wiring and am VERY unhappy with what i did (was so pissed about having to replace the engine i kinda just cut alot of wires when tookout the old engine :/
its gona be temp mounted behind the driver seat, then ima get a new harness and either mount it properly behind the center console, or move it to the engine bay where the battery is and move the battery to the front.
I built a mount off of that axle mounting location on the block but its not a dogbone style mount it solid mounted at the cradle and bushing at the engine block..it turned out so well im considering building one off the other side where the ac compressor bolts to the block and eliminate the factory front mount all together..that would give the drivetrain 4 mounts (one in each corner) plus I could cut the factory mount off of the cradle so I don't have to run exhaust around it..
I built a mount off of that axle mounting location on the block but its not a dogbone style mount it solid mounted at the cradle and bushing at the engine block..it turned out so well im considering building one off the other side where the ac compressor bolts to the block and eliminate the factory front mount all together..that would give the drivetrain 4 mounts (one in each corner) plus I could cut the factory mount off of the cradle so I don't have to run exhaust around it..
id still be worried that would allow the engine to flex under hard accels, etc.
I keep meaning to look at how to do this but spacing. SS brake lines are going in tonight so I'll check it out. Do you have access to a welder? I can use the one at work but that requires everything bolt on so I can remove-weld-replace. What are you thinking for exhaust? That could affect things.
I keep meaning to look at how to do this but spacing. SS brake lines are going in tonight so I'll check it out. Do you have access to a welder? I can use the one at work but that requires everything bolt on so I can remove-weld-replace. What are you thinking for exhaust? That could affect things.
~sam
me exhaust isnt going to go near that area tilln extyear when i get boost.
i sware i have a black cloud over my head when it comes to this car... just went to work on it, and a new part i had gotten seems to be defective, will post more info soon after i hear back from the vendor, but being who it is, i dont expect there to be a problem, just irks me that everytime i get time, i run into SOMETHINIG, unexpected...
not yet, just puton the replacement clutch line repair i got, and came in to get my laptop to upload the new ecu file from darth. waiting for friend to be free to help me bleed the clutch line...
and still on the search for the shift linkage clips that noone seems to have a source on... wtf?!
I just realized this weekend that my "power steering delete" pulley was rubbing up against the deck lid torsion bar (heard the vibrations once I actually got the muffler hooked up) so I'm curious if yours does the same, I just notched that torsion bar a bit but I'm not sure about it with the engine rocking back and forth.
I just realized this weekend that my "power steering delete" pulley was rubbing up against the deck lid torsion bar (heard the vibrations once I actually got the muffler hooked up) so I'm curious if yours does the same, I just notched that torsion bar a bit but I'm not sure about it with the engine rocking back and forth.
I just realized this weekend that my "power steering delete" pulley was rubbing up against the deck lid torsion bar (heard the vibrations once I actually got the muffler hooked up) so I'm curious if yours does the same, I just notched that torsion bar a bit but I'm not sure about it with the engine rocking back and forth.
nope, i dont have a "Delete" pulley tho, i have the stock 3500 drive pulley at top..
so, i noticed the other day that my throttle was only opening 32%, so today i modified the bracket some.. i flattened it out to just befroe the spot the cable mounts into, then bent it right there, reads 82% on the tps now, ima pickup a pack of cable stops http://www.amazon.com/Dorma...-clamp/dp/B000COCPZM and see if i cant claim that last 20% back.
nope, i dont have a "Delete" pulley tho, i have the stock 3500 drive pulley at top..
Curious if you could measure your pulley diameter? I put the "delete" in quotes because my engine didn't have that pulley when I picked it up and was mailed one that would work (I also think the Equinox has EHPS like whatever you got your 3500 from?)
Curious if you could measure your pulley diameter? I put the "delete" in quotes because my engine didn't have that pulley when I picked it up and was mailed one that would work (I also think the Equinox has EHPS like whatever you got your 3500 from?)
ill get mesurements and take a few pics for ya tomorrow,
ick, just revisited my thread, ill get that measurement for you tomorrow, totally forgot!! only done minor little things... bleed the clutch, put the cable stop on the throttlecable, put the clips on the trans shift linkage... nothing fun, i havent been getting home from work till after dark, and spending the weekends with the kids, hopefully ill get some time soon.
after welding it together to make sure i cut it to the proper length, using the egr valve "blockoff" plate as the one side mount
about 1/4" thick piece of rubber (cut from an exhaust hanger strap) its epoxied to the arm assembly i made, and just "rest" againts the back wall, had to pull the engine forward to fir it in w/ the rubber on, so its nice and snug, i plan on drilling boltholes threw it, but for now, this seems to work rather well figuring the engines torque pushes twards that wall... bolts may not be required, we will see..
It's a good location relative to the origin of the anti torque but in addition to it being too rigid you also don't want anything attached to your manifold producing that kind of load as it could lead to a manifold leak particularly an internal one that allows oil into the intake manifold at the lower plenum and cylinder head gasket.
I tried a rigid mount like that before at the stock location and down shifting was not much of a problem at all as the flywheel weight helps limit how fast the engine decels, on the other hand the transmission of engine vibrations to the frame of the car was another story. Get some rubber or poly at both ends.
i plan on eventually changing it to the type w/ a dogbone (see related thread where i was asking for measurements), but for now this will do me so i can get some driving under it, makesureits all working right, when i get the time, i wana do a setup like WCF offers for the 3800 swaps, bolts to the drivers side of the read head, then over to the firewall.
almost got the flanges finished for the 3500 manifolds, looked at a ton of "universal" flanges, none seem to lineup well enough that i wanted to use them, so im cutting my own from 1/4" sheet steel (same thing i made that bracket from), 3 bolt holes are marked and drilled, basic outside shape is cutout, actual hole for the exhaust pipe still needs to be cut, had to pickup the right size holesaw for metal.
went to move the car and well, hit some problems, clutch slave cyl bracket broke.... new master / slave cyl + spec clutch > 25year old aluminum bracket. :/ ordered a replacement from rodney, hopefully it gets here before thanksgiving.
Torque strut looks good! Too bad it won't work for my application because of my Trueleo headers.
Bummer on your slave bracket. I had a similar issue but I broke off piece of the holes where the shift linkage mount, luckily they still hold in place with the clips...
You're so close, you better get to drive it before it snows.
Torque strut looks good! Too bad it won't work for my application because of my Trueleo headers.
Bummer on your slave bracket. I had a similar issue but I broke off piece of the holes where the shift linkage mount, luckily they still hold in place with the clips...
You're so close, you better get to drive it before it snows.
all the hard stuff is done.. exhaust flanges will be done soon, just need to drill 2 holes, then get exhaust done, the bracket broke when i was gona take it down the street to see how it drove, figures right?
you could probably do something similar, just would need to come straight up, then over the headers?
[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 11-21-2011).]
Ya I'll look more into it this winter. It probably could come straight up, but I do still want to use the poly dog bone I bought from Rodney so we'll see what happens.
new slave cyl bracket installed, as usual rodney made another perfect product....
flashed ecu installed, and now im getting 2 codes i wasnt with the base 3400 tune :/ voltage low to the TPS and MAP, ill have to check the wires and makesure everythigns good, i dont see what coulda changed tho.. + side the egr / evap / trans codes are gone
im having an issue getting the air outa the system tho, heres what ive been doing... i have a thermostat fill after the t-stat going to the drivers side tube, i open the rad, fill the rad till its full and put the cap back on, fill the back coolant fill port till its full, put the cap back on, then i have a fill point in the heater line coming from the tstat housing to the heater core, i fill from that point with both bleed valves open (one of the tstat neck and one on the coolant "Tree") and close them assoon as coolant starts coming out, cap the system and start the car...
all seems fine, car warms up, t-stat opens, then like 2-3 min later the cap on the rear will "pop" and a ton of steam comes pouring out the vent tube on it, anyone have any ideas?!
im thinking maybe i need to drill a small hole in the t-stat to allow better bleeding?!?
