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Lightweight fiero 101: 2300 pound curb weight is my goal by sunofjustice
Started on: 11-25-2010 04:43 PM
Replies: 445 (28560 views)
Last post by: Francis T on 08-02-2017 08:11 AM
Stubby79
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Report this Post01-11-2011 10:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stubby79Send a Private Message to Stubby79Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
How about aluminum lug nuts? That'll save a couple of pounds, over-all.

Anyone have any personal experiece with these in regards to dependability/safety?
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post01-12-2011 11:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here is some more eye candy......








Assimilation of the vents various angles.
(A bit of a pita for the fastback fieros,
EARLIER cars are blessed with SIMPLER
vent designs.)



Added an extra 1/4" to the new vent openings,
heat evacuation should be phenomenal.




Making progress!

I started out REALLLLLY SLOW,
mainly due to uncertainty of the final design,
can I really accomplish this task AESTHETICALLY,
keep the weight down realistically,
and will it be STURDY enough to BOLT down???

Serendipity!
After adding the first few bar partitions,
the new vent stiffened up quite nicely.










First stage of mission completed....

I really should have made a FULL cardboard prototype,
but I kept triple checking , and remeasuring enough
to feel confident in my work.
( Truthfully, I had to "eyeball" some angles)

Here it is quasi installed.....






I may have to trim the front of the vent slightly,
but this sucker is REALLY close to perfect!
Usually,
I bring the part I'm forming down to the car
to check fitment and such.
But, the .20 aluminum vent "frame" I made
was uber flimsy, and I wanted MINIMAL destortion.

Heres a pic of the new vent on the digi scale....






10 oz. versus 3 lbs.!

With both new vents weighing in at 20 oz. (hopefully),
I SHOULD see a 5 lb. reduction on the rear.

Adding the removal of the 10 lb. O.R. scoops,
I would have 15 lbs. of total weight reduction!


Will be on hiatis for awhile to complete the other vent.

Just a heads up,
but another surprise is waiting on the back burner.
( Thanks, Chris!)
Hint: Once modified. it SHOULD (in theory) add close to 15 hp.

I cant wait to get this idea going....... Drool
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IROCTAFIERO
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Report this Post01-12-2011 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IROCTAFIEROSend a Private Message to IROCTAFIEROEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Why do you hit "enter" so much while you type?
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couldahadaV8
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Report this Post01-12-2011 12:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for couldahadaV8Click Here to visit couldahadaV8's HomePageSend a Private Message to couldahadaV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stubby79:

How about aluminum lug nuts? That'll save a couple of pounds, over-all.

Anyone have any personal experiece with these in regards to dependability/safety?


Porsche uses them; my '87 911 had them so that is 20 years+ with no issue.

[This message has been edited by couldahadaV8 (edited 01-12-2011).]

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post01-12-2011 01:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by couldahadaV8:


Porsche uses them; my '87 911 had them so that is 20 years+ with no issue.


Well I've been watching this since the beginning, guess I'll weigh in now.
Porsche uses TITANIUM lug nuts. And yep they are SUPER light weight.
I'll get some pics of the work I've done on my lightweight solo car when the weather clears. My goal weight is 1500 lbs.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

What would you be if you were attached to another object by an inclined plane wrapped helically around an axis?
Screwed.
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couldahadaV8
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Report this Post01-12-2011 02:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for couldahadaV8Click Here to visit couldahadaV8's HomePageSend a Private Message to couldahadaV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

Porsche uses TITANIUM lug nuts. And yep they are SUPER light weight.


Maybe some models use these, but the factory ones on the '87 911 were aluminum.

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Report this Post01-12-2011 07:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by couldahadaV8:


Maybe some models use these, but the factory ones on the '87 911 were aluminum.


Are you sure? How can you tell the difference?
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couldahadaV8
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Report this Post01-12-2011 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for couldahadaV8Click Here to visit couldahadaV8's HomePageSend a Private Message to couldahadaV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:


Are you sure? How can you tell the difference?


Positive. I work with Ti and Al parts every day. Ti weighs 1.6x that of Al, so for the same volume of part the difference is noticeable. If you aren't sure, touch it on a grinder and look for sparks (none with aluminum); OK, it's a crude method, but it works.

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sunofjustice
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Report this Post01-13-2011 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Stubby79,

At first , I thought you were "shining" me on
about using aluminum lugs.
Since aluminum is understandibly SOFTER than steel.

the resulting posts suggest others are certainly interested
in using them, so I did some investigating via google.

Even though I only read through two pages of google search,
there is a fairly consistant amount of technical,
personal experiences, and mechanic feedback worth considering.


I/E:

1. Even though porsche may have used aluminum (or titanium)
for lug nuts, they still DESIGNED the hub to use wheel studs
that are THICKER, with a COASER thread type to accomodate
the aluminum lugs.

2. Again, aluminum is SOFT, and can FATIGUE when overly stressed.
If you are hellbent on using them, use FORGED alum. lugs.

3. Dont remove , or retorque alum. lugnuts when HOT.
( Frequant wheel swapping/ retightening WEAKENS the lugs
faster than usual, versus steel.)

4. Dont over torque alum. lugnuts over 80 ft/lbs. ( AVOID air gun usage!)

5. Appartently, these lugs CAN be used safely, but only on the street.
( Steel for the track)

6. Dissimilar metals CAN react negatively to each other ( Aluminum w steel),
sometimes they corode (which affects lugnut torque),
or they may actually SEIZE together
resulting in $$$ to have someone remove them.

7. Make sure the aluminum lug SEAT matches your current wheel type.

Thats all I got on the subject, I'm sure there's more.....
but I thought this info would help give people some more insight.
Especially since keeping the wheels on the car is of precedence.


Thank you for your input,
This was a pretty interesting tangent .

P.S.

For those that want to use alum. lugs anyway........

I reitirate,
Check only when COLD, check lug tightness every few days,
(no more than 80 #'s of torque) and Carry a couple of spares.
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post01-13-2011 01:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

sunofjustice

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Member since Jun 2009
Iroctafiero,

WHY do I keep using the "enter" button?

Creative expression.

That's my story, and i'm stick'n to it.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-13-2011 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I haven't dropped in this thread in awhile. But those custom deck vents look interesting. There was a guy making custom deck vents from stainless steel sheet, about a year or two ago... not sure what happened with that.

I personally would not trust aluminum lug-nuts... at least, not on the type and size of wheel stud used on the Fiero. Like mentioned above, the wheel studs would need to be larger diameter, with coarser threads. Then maybe I would trust them... MAYBE. Titanium wouldn't bother me, though... assuming you could find (and afford) them.

Keep up the good work, man.
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Stubby79
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Report this Post01-20-2011 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stubby79Send a Private Message to Stubby79Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by sunofjustice:
6. Dissimilar metals CAN react negatively to each other ( Aluminum w steel),
sometimes they corode (which affects lugnut torque),
or they may actually SEIZE together
resulting in $$$ to have someone remove them.

I've heard/been warned of this many times over the years, yet I've never once witnessed it anywhere on a vehicle or otherwise...though that might just be me. And I don't think it'd be much of an issue, anyway...if an air gun is enough to strip an aluminum lug nut, it's probably more than enough to tear off a siezed one!

Thanks for the info/rundown on them by the way.

PS: I've noticed plenty of similar metals end up siezed together when they oxidize, yet no one ever warns you of that!

[This message has been edited by Stubby79 (edited 01-20-2011).]

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sunofjustice
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Report this Post01-22-2011 03:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Blacktree, stubby79

domo arrigato for the props.

My apologies for the sllooooowww reply.
I've been getting more hours at work,
plus the constant on/off snowing (@ 15 degrees)
is REALLY making me slack off.

Here are some "teaser" shots of what is on
the back burner......



(Thank you for the hook up, chris!)

Here's the "test specimen" that will be altered
in the very near future.......







Roughly 8 pounds of intake.......
Here's the real star of the show.......





Two pounds of tuned port, throttlebody goodness.

I acquired this little gem for $20. from a cool
autozone employee who wanted to help me out
with the dual throttlebody idea.

Even though this mod has already been done,
either HERE on this forum or on the 3rd gen f body forum,
there's still room for customizing.

I also realize that the twin 48mm openings
will flow ALOT more air than the engine really needs,
and there are a few fairly easy mods that can
be utilized to remedy this scenario.
( Mum's the word, "loose lips sink ships")

Lastly,
the restriction in the SECONDARY portion of
the intake is still there, and it WILL be addressed.
But, the weather is putting the kibosh on
any real headway ( no garage), so just the UPPER
intake manifold will be reconfigured for now.

Quite frankly,
I am VERY excited about this tangent project.
While trying to come up with an ORIGINAL
dual throttle body concept, I managed to come
up with SIX doable intake manifold ideas.
Hopefully, all of them should flow air very efficently,
generate more horsepower, and contribute a
certain RACY aesthetic to the engine bay.


To INSURE proper flow dynamics,
I've been studying up on intake "ram tuning"
that also will require some math to guarantee
a modicrum of success.
Some designs are'nt that complex, others
WILL require calculations.


http://www.team-integra.net...le.asp?ArticleID=466

Wish me, luck peeps.
( Switching back to ninja lurker mode)

[This message has been edited by sunofjustice (edited 01-23-2011).]

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doublec4
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Report this Post01-22-2011 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for doublec4Send a Private Message to doublec4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good to see you got the manifold. Can't wait to see what you come up with! Good luck!
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post01-23-2011 02:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Doublec 4,

Thank you for the intake, and the support!
( I do appreciate it )

Brian


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Stubby79
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Report this Post01-23-2011 03:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stubby79Send a Private Message to Stubby79Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I find it tempting to try and stuff a really light-weight engine into a Fiero to cut the weight down. The 4-banger engine /w trans in my Saturn together weigh about half of what the V6 /w trans does. With some of your diet engineering, I could have a fiero at your 2300lb goal. Of course, you'd lose more performance than you'd gain from the weight loss...but if MPG were your goal instead, it'd work. Too bad our Fieros came with an all iron engine!

PS: How is the road noise inside the cab with all the carpet, etc taken out?

[This message has been edited by Stubby79 (edited 01-23-2011).]

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pHoOl
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Report this Post01-23-2011 09:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pHoOlClick Here to visit pHoOl's HomePageSend a Private Message to pHoOlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What about an Ecotec? Or perhaps do the Saturn 1.9 swap and turbo it?
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Stubby79
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Report this Post02-20-2011 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stubby79Send a Private Message to Stubby79Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pHoOl:

What about an Ecotec? Or perhaps do the Saturn 1.9 swap and turbo it?


After looking at the shift mechanism on the saturn's transmission, I don't see that being a viable option. Said mechanism would end up pointed towards the trunk in a Fiero and would require some really impressive engeneering skills (That I don't have) to make it work. Maybe if it could be flipped over...and wouldnt be worth the effort trying to make an adapter to fit it to the fiero transmission.

Edit: this seems to be the way to go:
 
quote
Originally posted by L67:
...weighs about half of what the V6 does. I'm serious, its not even funny how lightweight it is...




Bolts right up to the Fiero transmission.

Sorry about getting off topic. Any news on your project, SoJ?

[This message has been edited by Stubby79 (edited 02-21-2011).]

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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-21-2011 02:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry for the looong wait,
peeps.


I really think I burned myself out with
grinding / hacksawing / dremmeling / and sanding
that damn intake and throttlebody for hours
on end everyday.

This kind of weather that KEEPS coming back
is another part of the equation....





When it got warm enough to open the window
in the apartment, I finished primering,
and painting the vents.
When the parts fully cured, I FINALLY got to install them
and check the fitment of such.











I added one once of reinforcement ribbing
to the bottom of each vent, which stiffened them
up perfectly.
(Both peices still weigh only 11 oz. each.)

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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-21-2011 02:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

sunofjustice

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Member since Jun 2009
Here is a progress report on the intake
and throttlebody........

(Que the chainsaw sound clip)

BWRRRRRRRRRRR







Roughly two pounds of resrtiction gone!

Here's a teaser shot (NOT what I ultimately plan,
just thought it looked cool sitting there though.)





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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-21-2011 03:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

sunofjustice

306 posts
Member since Jun 2009
This is ALOT closer to what I plan to do.....





Here is what I REALLY plan to do.....

http://www.6061.com/lsx.htm

Unfortunately,
the $400. price tag freaked me out.
(Even though it looks like the prices came
down a little, that's still too high for my blood.)

I have already choosen my aluminum (3003 grade),
and will plan to bolt, or pop rivet the peices to
keep the costs down. (ALL fasteners will
be located on the OUTSIDE of the intake adapter,
to prevent any parts from falling in.)

Welding would be IDEAL, but most locals charge $200.
and up just to light up the torch.

(Still asking around for those who weld aluminum
at DECENT prices.)

[This message has been edited by sunofjustice (edited 03-21-2011).]

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82-T/A [At Work]
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Report this Post03-21-2011 03:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 82-T/A [At Work]Send a Private Message to 82-T/A [At Work]Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

Well I've been watching this since the beginning, guess I'll weigh in now.
Porsche uses TITANIUM lug nuts. And yep they are SUPER light weight.
I'll get some pics of the work I've done on my lightweight solo car when the weather clears. My goal weight is 1500 lbs.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

What would you be if you were attached to another object by an inclined plane wrapped helically around an axis?
Screwed.


I wonder, will they fit the thread pattern on our Fieros?

I had a 1984 Porsche 944 that I restored a while back, and I remember that 5 of the 944 lug nuts would weigh about the same as a single Fiero lugnut!
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-21-2011 04:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Of course,
decklid height will be of significant consideration.

However,
this will give me even more reason to get off
my derierre and get me some aluminum sheet
for an entire decklid , complete with molded in louver/
vents.

Stubby 79,

sorry 'bout the late reply to the interior sound question,

a tad "echo-y" (is this a word?) , but liveable.

I miss my radio though, I plan to install an ipod
stereo system when possible.
The car needs insurance, all four tires, and possibly
a rear upper strut mount assembly.
(wth, all the suspension pieces are NEW
and I have to redo this???)

I HAD a big lump of money, but had to insure the
van (which gets me to work), replace the exhaust,
the brake master, the tps, a faulty O2 sensor,
and had to replace the rear fiberglass springs
with steel. (Thanks GM)

I'm not bent out of shape,
but the TIMING of this crap is most annoying
to say the least. @@##$%!!!

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post03-21-2011 04:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:


I wonder, will they fit the thread pattern on our Fieros?

I had a 1984 Porsche 944 that I restored a while back, and I remember that 5 of the 944 lug nuts would weigh about the same as a single Fiero lugnut!


Been a while since I looked at them, but I think they're bigger.
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aaronkoch
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Report this Post03-21-2011 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for aaronkochSend a Private Message to aaronkochEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just an FYI, the 2.0 sunbird engine is an iron block, and still pretty heavy.

I had a sunbird with that motor... Ran forever (although mine was the non-turbo). Interesting tidbit, that particular engine has no oil scraper rings.
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-21-2011 08:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Heres some pix i forgot to post.....







3003 aluminum from metal by the foot.com,
unloaded vac. brake booster from rockauto.
( Every part ordered from there is pure gold!
WORKS every time!)

Here is the manifold after GRINDING the paint off,
and deleting unnecessary casting flash, misc. screw
mounts, and shaving used/unused vac bungs.











(older pic before current weigh in...)

PREVIOUS weight roughly 8 pounds,
CURRENT weight 4 pounds 11.4 oz.
Tuned port throttlebody.........




( Havent even used any rouge polish yet...)



PREVIOUS WEIGHT without IAC 2 pounds 3 oz.

CURRENT WEIGHT without IAC 1 pound 14 oz.

IAC assembly......

PREVIOUS WEIGHT 8.6 oz.
CURRENT WEIGHT 5.6 oz.

With the manifold and t-body included,
thats 4 1/2 pounds removed all together.

The aluminum sheet I ordered weighs 1 pound,
but should'nt really matter since it is needed
to finish this part of the project.

Next step is to cut out a detailed template
of the intake adapter before cutting the sheet metal.
Next step after that is to purchase a decent
pop-rivit gun and throttlebody mounting bolts,
check linkage freeplay, get new tps sensor
and IAC. (Or,good used ones from boneyard)

Get stock y-pipe restriction replaced with custom
shorter, free flowing exhaust.
Have chip burned for new t-body and no egr,
install new intake, make adjustments, lay rubber.
( Crossing fingers.)

I also anticipate hood clearence issues,
but hopefully I can sqeeze everything in
when the time comes.

[This message has been edited by sunofjustice (edited 03-21-2011).]

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doublec4
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Report this Post03-22-2011 11:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for doublec4Send a Private Message to doublec4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good to see the project is still alive.

That intake manifold is getting put to good use!
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-22-2011 11:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Mucho thanks, chris!

I admit to outright apathy, and its unfair
to those following along.
I went to LOEWS to find a pop rivit gun,
but did'nt see any.
Home depot might have one, otherwise
I'll have to get one online.

A ROUGH cardboard template for the adapter
has already been made to get a loose estimate
for how much aluminum to procure, but it is
NOT very presentable.
The very next post will be a shot of the card-
board adapter and the sketches I have done already.

Again,
my apologies for dragging my feet, everyone.
No excuses, but multiple van problems,
bills, and flip floppy Michigan weather,
has really curtailed my enthusiasm lately.
( We're supposed to have a string of 30 degree
weather this week. Yay.)
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-23-2011 12:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As promised,
here is the card board adapter template plus sketches.

I would have put these up yesterday (I had JUST
enough time to post them before going to work),
but the PIP took an impromptu holiday on me.
It did NOT want to work.

Anywho,
here is my presentation.....





An aluminum sheet divider will be incorporated
to help direct the airflow to each bank of intake ports.
A one inch radius bend will be placed at the base of
the intake adapter to help promote a smoother airflow
path from the throttlebody, to the divider, and then
into the intake ports.

PCV is still needed,
but I'm still debating WHERE to put the vac. port.
The throttle body has a provision for this, but it
would contaminate ALOT more of the intake tract
versus placing the thing dead center of the upper
intake floor.
I might place a port in the middle of the divider to
help evenly distribute the crankcase gases.


Here are some more pix of how the adapter will look...











Obviously,
the HEIGHT of this sucker is an issue.
A larger hood "power bulge" (with louvers) will have
to be fashioned to be able to close the decklid.

I had a previous design that totally eliminates
the stock upper manifold altogether, and utilizes
twin throttlebodies.
This design is VERY fundamental, but usually
most of the prototypes I've seen, only had a
SINGLE t-body on them.
The most memoriable aspect of these intakes
is they are consistently, and
affectionately dubbed "the pizza box".

I digress,
the first "pizza box design" I had would fit under
a stock decklid, but I was concerned with proper
airflow management.
( You DONT want one bank of cylinders fighting for AIR
from another bank of cylinders.)
From just visually comparing various intake manifolds,
there SHOULD be enough wiggle room to create
several prototype UPPER intakes.
Especially if said intakes are used for AIR only.

As already mentioned, i have SIX intake manifold concepts,
and really wish I could weld aluminum and make ALL of them.
Money, parts loacating, and trial and error also factor into my reservations.
(Some would require custom fuel rails.)
Eventually I'll have to start another thread just to display the ideas,
but I'm not interested in debating with potential hecklers right now.
No offense.

For now,
this intake adapter is STAGE ONE, and is a "shotgun sidesaddle" design.

There was a LONGER version, where the t-body would reach the valve covers.
This would probably fit under a stock decklid, but WEIGHT and close
proximity to header heat nixed that idea.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post03-23-2011 12:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's too bad you already bought the TPI throttle body. The Turbo 3.8 V6 (used in the Buick GN) has a throttle body adapter with a similar design. The stock GN throttle body is 59mm, which is more than enough for a 2.8 V6. I've seen aftermarket ones over 70mm, also.

Here's a link to a Google image page, showing some Buick GN intake plenums and throttle bodies: http://www.google.com/image...h&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=

Anyway, I just thought I'd toss that out there.
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post03-24-2011 12:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Blacktree,

thanks for the contribution!

Very interesting stuff, except they want $400 bones as well.


Hopefully, I can complete this intake project for around $100.
and gain 15 horsepower in the process.
(Knock on wood)

Here is a current tally on expenses:

Used throttlebody from cool autozone dude $20.

Aluminum from online store $12.

Pop rivit gun from Lowes $17.

Used TPS sensor, and used IAC from Detroit pick your part $2.

Custom chip from Darthfiero $60.

I may have to get a longer throttle cable, and cut the decklid
for testing purposes. $ ???

Having plenty of power through the entire rpm range,
from a fairly stock 2.8 v6..................................PRICELESS.

(Although I realize most people HATE this engine,
I still like the "underdog" aspect of it. Color me crazy.)
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sunofjustice
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Report this Post04-04-2011 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunofjusticeSend a Private Message to sunofjusticeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
G' day mates,

just an over-due progress report on the intake adapter.


Cardboard mock-up.....




Metal template cut out......



The 3003 aluminum was amazingly tough to
mold a SMOOTH curve by hand, so I employed
the usage of a bicycle handle bar to "beat" the
metal into submission.

(Please excuse the clutter....)





This aluminum is pretty tough, but will metal-fatigue easily
if OVER WORKED too much. ( Repeated bending back and forth)
Ironically, the 3003 grade metal has the EXACT same thickness,
and inherent properties of my current CAI pipe.
(Amazingly stiff, but light.)

More pix of the adapter whilst it got measured, REMEASURED,
and gently coerced into the exact shape of the cardboard mock-up.










Cardboard mock up of the intake divider........



Sideview of the intake ports.
( This SHOULD help smooth out the airflow as it leaves the adapter,
and enters the intake.



Heres the divider installed..........











The next step is to fabricate a "bolt retainer" bracket
that will reside within the intake adapter opening.
I had the "great idea" of using u-bolts for attaching
the throttle body to the intake adapter.

This would kill two birds with one stone.
I/E: (1) A nice secure mount for the T-body that would'nt
easily come off, and was clean and simple to utilize.
(2) A nice secure mount that would stay static
and WOULD'NT rotate with the retaining nuts
if I wanted to remove the throttlebody.

But, upon weighing the u-bolts, I reconsidered that idea.
( Almost half a pound worth of fasteners.)

I might have to utilize some ALUMINUM/ TITANIUM BOLTS .........

http://www.racebolts.com/

http://www.mutualscrew.com/...Hag6gCFZFoKgodeh-fsg
(Funky name, yo.......)

There were more names, but these stood out the most.
Unfortunately, the bigger the bolt, the more $$$.
( $40. for four 5/16 X "2 3/4 length bolts bummed me out.)

I'll have to do more checking around, but I'll probably
just use the standard bolts I got from LOWES ($ 4. with washers included.)

I'll admit,
the titanium bolts were pretty cool though.


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lou_dias
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Report this Post04-05-2011 04:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lou_diasSend a Private Message to lou_diasEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You should also shave .3" off both the top of the middle intake and the bottom of the upper intake. You'll need to get shorter intake bolts though that are threaded longer or use different bolts all together.
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post04-06-2011 12:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Shuriken battery 14 pounds 3x6.5x7.5
toyo tires are litest for 1/2 way decent tires
some infinity models have lite aluminum space saver spare

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 04-06-2011).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post06-03-2011 04:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's been awhile. Any new developments?
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Xyster
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Report this Post06-03-2011 06:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for XysterSend a Private Message to XysterEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 86FieroSEv6:

Can you shed any weight from the tire/wheel package?


I agree. This will decrease unsprung AND rotating mass. IMO the best place to start.
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FieroG97J
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Report this Post06-03-2011 07:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroG97JSend a Private Message to FieroG97JEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just can't resist running my mouth on this one. I haven't read the whole thread, but I would offer the following. Titanium studs and nuts is the only way to go. You will probably have to make them yourself. A fuel cell of course will be needed. Helium is the gas of choice for the tires. And I would try a Star Trek type force field for the windows. ALL of the non-high stress fasteners can be replaced with nylon counterparts. And don't forget the lowest possible profile tires with beryllium rims.

Old Metallurgist
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dobey
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Report this Post06-03-2011 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroG97J:
And I would try a Star Trek type force field for the windows.


I'm just putting a gravity drive in mine.
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FieroG97J
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Report this Post06-04-2011 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroG97JSend a Private Message to FieroG97JEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:


I'm just putting a gravity drive in mine.


He might just have to go with a ceiling fan inside the cockpit to save $$
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1fatcat
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Report this Post06-04-2011 07:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fatcatSend a Private Message to 1fatcatEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:


I'm just putting a gravity drive in mine.


I thought ion drive was the way to go?

Have you had it on the scale lately? I'm curious what you have it down to right now with all the lightening you've done already.

And FieroG97J has a good point with the fasteners. Titanium is super strong and super light...and super expensive. Also, as he said, plastic fasteners where you can get away with them.

[This message has been edited by 1fatcat (edited 06-04-2011).]

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