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Longitudinal BMW V12 in a Stock Fiero Engine Compartment - 25th Anniversary Countach by 88lambo
Started on: 04-11-2010 01:54 AM
Replies: 279 (53640 views)
Last post by: Shantali on 10-09-2019 03:38 AM
diabloroadster
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Report this Post01-25-2012 01:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for diabloroadsterSend a Private Message to diabloroadsterEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Looks great!!! Im really impressed, that should be a great drivetrain for your replica.

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88lambo
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Report this Post02-03-2012 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Engine back in car to align upper coilover mounts, to locate brackets for ignition coils, exhaust fitment, etc...















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Sourmug
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Report this Post02-04-2012 02:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Very nice! what a great build.

Nolan

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Report this Post02-04-2012 07:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Oooooo.... looking very sexy!

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topcat
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Report this Post02-04-2012 08:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for topcatClick Here to Email topcatSend a Private Message to topcatEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This thread has my vote for The Construction Zone. What a great build!

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88lambo
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Report this Post02-29-2012 12:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks for the support..Moving a bit slower then I want, need to spend some money to get it moving... fuel system, cooling system, brake system, HVAC need to be completely redone $$$$.
Good news, almost done the rear suspension...





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gtxbullet
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Report this Post02-29-2012 02:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtxbulletSend a Private Message to gtxbulletEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

two thumbs up for you!!!!

A true over the top conversion. Well done!!!

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northeastfiero
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Report this Post03-31-2012 09:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for northeastfieroClick Here to Email northeastfieroSend a Private Message to northeastfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Really like what you have done to overcome the obstacles of fitting this engine. I am also in the process of fitting an m73 into my fiero though a bit differently to the way you have. What are you using for engine management I am using megasquirt. Here is a link to my build hope you dont mind.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/086680.html

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jaredmurray88
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Report this Post03-31-2012 11:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaredmurray88Click Here to Email jaredmurray88Send a Private Message to jaredmurray88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

you kno when you are done you have a major obligation to fill.....VIDEOS AND LOTS OF THEM!!!

------------------
"Speed costs money. How fast do you wanna go?"

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88lambo
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Report this Post05-08-2012 11:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Still poking away on car...Bought lots of parts lately:
New Brake calipers (found locally $65 ea front, $100 ea rear, last ones in warehouse - discontinued)
Rotors and pads
SST brake hoses
Front Ball Joints and Tie Rods

B&M Shifter

Fuel Pump - went with AC Delco EP381 (from Summit racing)

SST Exhaust tips (2.5" inlet x 4.0" outlet, dual tip)

Just ordered 2x Honda Civic aluminum dual core radiators (will be install similar to the real countach. 2x Civic rads have more surface area then Fiero rad and BMW rad used for the V12.)

Lots of exhaust bits.

Have Exhaust sorted out
Rear suspension sorted out
Shifter almost sorted, just need to make a couple brackets

Next:

-Finish dropping Drivers floor pan
-Set up Fuel System
-Connect engine harness
-Set up Brake system............Man this is moving Slowly....





























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Will
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Report this Post05-09-2012 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 88lambo:




This setup is going to put a lot of bending load on the rod-ends... How big are they?

I wouldn't run it like that... I'd put the shock lower pivot right on the knuckle if possible.

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post05-09-2012 01:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:
This setup is going to put a lot of bending load on the rod-ends... How big are they?

I wouldn't run it like that... I'd put the shock lower pivot right on the knuckle if possible.


I agree, but the way it looks from the pics is that the wide wheels wont fit over a relocated shock? Larger joints would be better, but an insert would need to be made to go inside the eye of the joint to fill the larger hole that the long bolt cant fill up. The larger joints do not come with small bolt holes that fit the long bolt. Maybe this is why he chose this size joint?

I also think the nut welded onto the lower A arm to mount the joint is to little to hold the kind of stress that will be inflicted on them. You may want to look into a threaded sleev with at least 2" of threads. The sleeve can be run inside the A arm and rose bud welded or replace a section of the lower A arm.

[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 05-09-2012).]

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Will
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Report this Post05-09-2012 06:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It would require reworking the UCA (possibly from scratch), but if the UCA went to the outside of the top of the knuckle and attached to a bracket that bolted to the camber bolt holes, the spring/shock could them be inside the knuckle on the other end of said bracket. That would keep the shock well inboard, connected directly to the knuckle and still allow high offset wheels.

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weaselbeak
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Report this Post05-09-2012 11:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for weaselbeakClick Here to Email weaselbeakSend a Private Message to weaselbeakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Seems to me that the bending loads you reference would transfer back to the dual connections at the inner end of the control arms, not focus on a single twisting point. Am I missing something?

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88lambo
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Report this Post05-09-2012 11:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ya I would be very surprised if those rod ends bend, these are 1/2"-20UNF hardened steel bought from a stock car/dirt track race parts supplier...Rod end has a proof load of 120000psi, Yield strength 130000psi, tensile strength 150000psi and a shear load of 14400 lbs thru the threads, static radial load of 12224 lbs.
The wheel is pushing up on the knuckle which is attached to the lower suspension arm by TWO (2) rod ends (which splits the load x 2). The rod ends are attached to the lower are by a 1.75" long grade 8 coupling nut inserted 1.38" into a 1 x 1 x 1/8 wall HSS structural steel tube and welded. There is no way in hell the arm is bending and as for the rod end, the bending moment from the treaded nut to the center of the rod end is about 3/4 if an inch...over estimated car weight at that corner = 750Lbs/2 (2 rod ends) = 375Lbs/rod end. I use a similar set up on my lotus 7 replica but used a 1/2 nut welded to a 3/4 Dia x 0.065 wall round tube and drove that for 4 years no issues.

As for moving the coilover out, No, it would interfere with caliper and also manufacture recommended angle for mounting coilovers between 70°-90°, I'm at 70° now.

I'm not redesigning my suspension, because someone doesn't like the "look of it" and guessing how it was designed. With my 28+ years of mechanical design, working with Military Vehicles, Passenger loading bridges for airports and Military ships I feel very confident with my suspension design...

I would be more concerned with people swapping in 350Hp - 500hp motors into 25+ year old cradle and chassis with no extra strengthening using the 4x M12 bolts to bolt it together

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weaselbeak
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Report this Post05-10-2012 12:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for weaselbeakClick Here to Email weaselbeakSend a Private Message to weaselbeakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

" With my 28+ years of mechanical design, working with Military Vehicles, Passenger loading bridges for airports and Military ships I feel very confident with my suspension design..."

Dang, you're gettin' old.........

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88lambo
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Report this Post05-10-2012 12:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

No, started designing when 4

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Pete Matos
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Report this Post05-10-2012 10:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Pete MatosSend a Private Message to Pete MatosEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yeah well, I gotta be honest with you. I have built quite a few offroad vehicles including custom suspension and everything else and have been fabricating things for myself and customers for many years and I will say that I gotta agree with the other comments. I have built everything from vehicles to motorcycles to guns to parts for turbochargers you name it. I think that single rod end tie to the upper A arm is not too great. Those pieces were designed to be supported evenly not just on one side like that. I would look to add another rod end or change it to use some other kinda mount. Also I would surely box in the frame mounts as they will probably bend that way. The lower mount for your coilover is probably good enough for a simple shock mount but that is actually going to hold the car up and yeah it is only maybe the 750 pounds you figured......when the car is just sitting!! When you go howling into a corner on a twisty road you can probably triple that figure at least. I realize you put some thought into this and that you are limited as to where your coilover mounts can go but that to me is not sufficient mounting. If you intended to mount it there you should have made the lower A arm wider in that spot to tie it directly into the structure. Your welds look kinda sloppy but at least appear to be in the right places and should be strong enough as long as the heat was there. Only you would know how well the metal fused because you did the welding. Personally I think the setup is a bit dodgy at best. Are you using a flux core welder here? Are you sure you are getting enough penetration on the welds. I do not see anywhere that you rosette welded anything, are the hex stock pieces just butt welded in or are they going into the rectangular tubing a ways. If they are you should have drilled and rosette welded them in place. Are all these joints just butt joints? If they are you need to at least put some mending plates or fish plates over the joints in case one of the welds fail. I realize this is probably coming across as being negative and possibly worse but this is your life and others lives on the road we are talking about here. If these parts fail not only are you going to wreck your cool lambo kit car but you may kill someone else in the process. Let me put it to you this way... I have been Tig welding and fabbing parts for a very long time and I gotta say that you would be very surprised at how much stress many of these components receive. Those parts you quoted tolerances for are all fine and dandy but that is only if they are installed in a specific way. Did you weld these in a jig? Are you relying on the adjustability of the rod ends to get everything square and straight?

I am probably going to regret this post because I usually try to be positive about things and I really hate to be critical of other peoples work but I am saying these things because I do not want to see anything bad happen to a fellow fiero owner. Your build is pretty cool and the engine in that thing should be monstrous I am just saying that maybe you should really examine this suspension setup a bit more. Maybe have the folks at the race shop you bought those parts from come over and look at it for you and get their opinion. Well I guess I am done here and I am quite sure I probably pissed you off but I am willing to live with that. You have quite a project going on here and I wish you the best of luck with it. Please be careful for your sake and others.... Peace


Pete

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post05-10-2012 11:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 88lambo:

Ya I would be very surprised if those rod ends bend, these are 1/2"-20UNF hardened steel bought from a stock car/dirt track race parts supplier...Rod end has a proof load of 120000psi, Yield strength 130000psi, tensile strength 150000psi and a shear load of 14400 lbs thru the threads, static radial load of 12224 lbs.
The wheel is pushing up on the knuckle which is attached to the lower suspension arm by TWO (2) rod ends (which splits the load x 2). The rod ends are attached to the lower are by a 1.75" long grade 8 coupling nut inserted 1.38" into a 1 x 1 x 1/8 wall HSS structural steel tube and welded. There is no way in hell the arm is bending and as for the rod end, the bending moment from the treaded nut to the center of the rod end is about 3/4 if an inch...over estimated car weight at that corner = 750Lbs/2 (2 rod ends) = 375Lbs/rod end. I use a similar set up on my lotus 7 replica but used a 1/2 nut welded to a 3/4 Dia x 0.065 wall round tube and drove that for 4 years no issues.

As for moving the coilover out, No, it would interfere with caliper and also manufacture recommended angle for mounting coilovers between 70°-90°, I'm at 70° now.

I'm not redesigning my suspension, because someone doesn't like the "look of it" and guessing how it was designed. With my 28+ years of mechanical design, working with Military Vehicles, Passenger loading bridges for airports and Military ships I feel very confident with my suspension design...

I would be more concerned with people swapping in 350Hp - 500hp motors into 25+ year old cradle and chassis with no extra strengthening using the 4x M12 bolts to bolt it together


This is your baby, I am not the guy that is going to put it down. That is NOT why I posted. I posted a bit of advice based on some pics. They may say a 1,000 words but obviusly, not the whole story.

I just wish I had more advice from other perspectives on some of the projects I have done. Could have saved me a lot of time and even some money.

Have fun with your project, I realy like the intake logo.

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88lambo
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Report this Post05-10-2012 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks Pete for your comments, I understand what you are trying to say and appreciate it.
I know my welds are not always pretty but as we know a pretty weld is not necessary a good weld...I tend to over do my welds ie put larger welds or multipal passes. I have from time to time had some test coupons test at work and were consistently ugly but good.
yes made a jig to weld arms. All welds are v groove no butt welds as we know but welds only get about 0.1" perpetration
Upper rod end is 5/8, the knuckle arm is offset so with the upper rod end location as is it is centered to the knuckle

Re ran numbers on bending of lower rod ends using 2.5 g load and a fixed connection, which would be a much higher stress than a coilover dampened load and got 72000psi and the rod end is rated for 130000psi so a safety factor of 1.8 which will be higher because of the coilover.
I will re do the numbers on the whole suspension

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Report this Post05-10-2012 12:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Pete MatosSend a Private Message to Pete MatosEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey man thanks for NOT jumping down my throat. I am just trying to help. I figured you v grooved the tubing or at least hoped you did to get the most penetration and that is fine however I would really consider carefully plating or fishplating the joints or maybe even the whole assembly on each arm. That way you can really tie it all together. At the least I would make some gussets or plates to breach the multiple direction joints for safety. It will go a long ways to making it safer and actually strengthens the whole thing. Again I would at least box in those frame mounts to keep them from bending and I would also look closely at that top mount and see if you can do something that relies on more than one single bolt in shear like that. It is after all your car and you can do whatever you want with it these are just suggestions. I kinda envy you having the nads to take on a lambo build and doing a v12 conversion and making the entire rear structure from scratch. Good luck with it and peace

Pete

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seegeer
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Report this Post05-10-2012 01:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for seegeerClick Here to Email seegeerSend a Private Message to seegeerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hi, great build! i started one of these kits a few years ago and due to lack of time, i sold it off. i must say i love reading through this build. awesome work, love it!

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Will
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Report this Post05-10-2012 01:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 88lambo:

Ya I would be very surprised if those rod ends bend, these are 1/2"-20UNF hardened steel bought from a stock car/dirt track race parts supplier...Rod end has a proof load of 120000psi, Yield strength 130000psi, tensile strength 150000psi and a shear load of 14400 lbs thru the threads, static radial load of 12224 lbs.
The wheel is pushing up on the knuckle which is attached to the lower suspension arm by TWO (2) rod ends (which splits the load x 2). The rod ends are attached to the lower are by a 1.75" long grade 8 coupling nut inserted 1.38" into a 1 x 1 x 1/8 wall HSS structural steel tube and welded. There is no way in hell the arm is bending and as for the rod end, the bending moment from the treaded nut to the center of the rod end is about 3/4 if an inch...over estimated car weight at that corner = 750Lbs/2 (2 rod ends) = 375Lbs/rod end. I use a similar set up on my lotus 7 replica but used a 1/2 nut welded to a 3/4 Dia x 0.065 wall round tube and drove that for 4 years no issues.

As for moving the coilover out, No, it would interfere with caliper and also manufacture recommended angle for mounting coilovers between 70°-90°, I'm at 70° now.

I'm not redesigning my suspension, because someone doesn't like the "look of it" and guessing how it was designed. With my 28+ years of mechanical design, working with Military Vehicles, Passenger loading bridges for airports and Military ships I feel very confident with my suspension design...

I would be more concerned with people swapping in 350Hp - 500hp motors into 25+ year old cradle and chassis with no extra strengthening using the 4x M12 bolts to bolt it together


http://www.aedmotorsport.com/store.asp?pid=32821



This is how the radial load is applied. You're loading the rod end perpendicular to this direction.

You say the moment arm from the center of the spherical bearing to the nut is 3/4". With 375# of load, that's applying 280 inlbs of torque to the 1/2" shank just sitting on the ground. Dynamic loading from hitting a pothole in the middle of a corner could easily be 5 times that... So you'll be applying more than 1000 intbs of bending load to a piece of hardened 1/2" threaded rod.
All I ask is that you post pics of the failed units once you get the car on the road

Regarding the coil over, I didn't say to move it out. I said to attach it to the knuckle. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

For example:



Position the unit inside the upper control arm like this, except instead of attaching to the lower control arm, attach it to the top of the knuckle via a bracket that will bolt to the knuckle via the camber bolt holes.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 05-10-2012).]

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mid engine monsters
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Report this Post05-10-2012 02:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mid engine monstersClick Here to Email mid engine monstersSend a Private Message to mid engine monstersEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

you are kicking ass ! ....you have overcome some major hurdles so far ...i admire your persistance and dedication to an idea or concept !

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post05-10-2012 02:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:
You say the moment arm from the center of the spherical bearing to the nut is 3/4". With 375# of load, that's applying 280 ftlbs of torque to the 1/2" shank just sitting on the ground. Dynamic loading from hitting a pothole in the middle of a corner could easily be 5 times that... So you'll be applying more than 1000 fltbs of bending load to a piece of hardened 1/2" threaded rod.


That would be 1000 in-lbs, or 83 lbft.

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post05-10-2012 02:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:


That would be 1000 in-lbs, or 83 lbft.


? I did not see in-lb anywere.

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Will
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Report this Post05-10-2012 03:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:


That would be 1000 in-lbs, or 83 lbft.


D-oh! What's a factor of 12 here or there...

Still asking for pics of failed parts

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 05-10-2012).]

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88lambo
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Report this Post05-10-2012 03:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Will
I know it's a dynamic load that's why in my calculations I use 2.5 g to multiply the forces (which we use for the military vehicles) and using a fixed beam senario, which would see a lot more bending stress than dynamic.

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Will
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Report this Post05-22-2012 06:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The Ferrari suspension in these pictures has exactly the configuration I was suggesting:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330708749922

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GraterFang
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Report this Post05-23-2012 05:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GraterFangClick Here to Email GraterFangSend a Private Message to GraterFangEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

Position the unit inside the upper control arm like this, except instead of attaching to the lower control arm, attach it to the top of the knuckle via a bracket that will bolt to the knuckle via the camber bolt holes.



Forgive my lack of knowledge on this subject, but what's to be gained by attaching the coilover to the knuckle instead of the LCA (besides stronger mounting points)? Just looking to learn some more about all of this.

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Report this Post05-23-2012 12:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for aaronkochClick Here to Email aaronkochSend a Private Message to aaronkochEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

By attaching the coilover to the knuckle, you take the weight-load off of the LCA and the links from the knuckle to the LCA, leaving only axial loads on the LCA links.

Note: this is in response to the previous question, I don't know enough about engineering to critique the builder or to comment on the design. I'm just excited to see it when it's done.

------------------


Currently in the middle of my 88 + 3800NA swap

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Will
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Report this Post05-23-2012 02:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Takes the bending load off the lower control arm.

It also reduces the load on the body side shock/spring mount.

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Report this Post05-23-2012 04:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GraterFangClick Here to Email GraterFangSend a Private Message to GraterFangEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Makes sense. Thanks!

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ghostwalker
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Report this Post05-23-2012 11:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ghostwalkerClick Here to Email ghostwalkerSend a Private Message to ghostwalkerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Here You Go Lambo88, my Brother who is a Custom engine builder used to buy Strange axels but the Owner died and I guess the kid had no interest in building them..... there Contact info is near the Bottom.....I Hope this Helps you, have a Gr8 day and "GOD" Bless
GW
www.dutchmanaxles.com/produ...ring-axle-shaft-pair

Product Description

Dutchman’s Custom Alloy “Street/Strip” axles are forged from the ever popular and strong 1541-H material, are CNC machined, then induction hardened per Dutchman specifications [that have been time proven] for the abuse of racing with the flexibility for street use. These engineered material & hardening combinations not only give the torsional strength of a “Race only” axle but make it suitable for performance street use as well, hence the “Street/Strip” description.

Our POB alloy axles are custom made to order, regardless if your application is stock replacement or a custom length if you’re narrowing the housing. We can machine most popular bolt patterns, spline choices, and lengths to 34", or for an extra charge-lengths up to 40” long (outside flange face to end of the splines). Our Big Bearing (30 spline and larger) axles are NHRA & IHRA accepted . Dutchman alloy axles currently meet SFI aftermarket axle specifications.

Price's start at $300pr (for bare axles-NO hardware)
Axles with hardware package (As pictured with bearings, studs, & retainer plates) start at $380pr.

Made in the USA (right here in Portland OR)
Actual product may appear different than the pics.

Features:
-Forged alloy 1541-H material
-Stock or custom lengths
-Most popular bolt patterns
-Most spline counts and pressure angles
-Most popular bearing journal sizes available
-Non tapered body-can be shortened later
-Ductile flange-the bolt pattern can be changed later in most cases

Application(s):
-Ford 8 & 9 inch
-Mopar 8 3/4
-Dana 44 & 60
-57-64 Olds/Pontiac
-64-72 Buick/Olds/Pontiac
-55-56 Chevy Belair
-57 Chevy Belair
-58-64 Chevy Belair/Impala
-and others-inquire

Please review our “Ordering Process Defined” to familiarize yourself with the ordering process. Selections are explained & illustrations provided to aid in the ordering process (click above link to download a PDF). A Dutchman representative will review your order and call to confirm your information.

Rear End type: *
Method for Measuring Lengths (select 1) *

AL-Right & Left (axle flange to end of spline)
HL-Right & Left (housing flange to end of spline)
HP-Right & Left (housing flange to pinion centerline)
HS-Right & Left (housing flange to outside of stud or bolt hole)

Right length: *
Left length: *
HF: (housing flange to housing flange, ONLY if your housing is finished length)
Spline count, differential or spool type, & manufacturer if known. Example: 31 spline, Eaton Tru trac posi *
Brake kit: *

I'm purchasing a brake kit from Dutchman & will rely on them for the correct build info
I'm supplying my own drum kit & will list build info below
I'm supplying my own disc kit & will list build info below

If supplying your own brake kit, list; The brand, housing end its designed to fit, the brake standoff, & the pilot size, "OR" list NA and fill out F, P, BJ, & BE or BS dimensions below *
F: (Axle flange diameter)
P: (Drum or Rotor pilot sizes up to 3.100, larger pilots will result in an additional charge)
BS: (Axle flange to Bearing shoulder-if the bearings are OFF the shafts)
BJ: (Bearing journal. Common sizes include 1.379, 1.533, 1.564)
BE: (Axle flange to Bearing edge-if the bearings are ON the shafts)
HE: (List from housing end identifier or NA if it doesn't apply) *
Bolt Pattern: *
Stud selection *
Hole size-listed as a fraction or decimal (determined by your studs) *
Machine Access hole in axle flanges *
Axle Hardware *

None (Just bare axles)
Axles with studs only +$20.00
Axles with ball bearings, studs, & retainer plates +$80.00
Axles with taper bearings, studs, & retainer plates +$105.00

Hardware application surcharges: *
Hardware loose or installed: *
Notes:
Understandings & Agreements: *

I have reviewed the ordering process & completely understand what I am ordering. I understand that these are custom made parts and are "NON returnable" or "Cancelable" once the order has been submitted.
I agree to Dutchman's current "Terms, conditions, & policies" of sale.

* Required Fields
$300.00
Qty:
Phone:
503-257-6604

Hours:
8am-4pm, Monday-Friday, Pacific - West coast time (for phone orders & product pick up).
NOTE: For new project drop offs, Please don't come ANY later than 3:30pm, as we need enough time for the sales consultation & writing the order up.
Closed for lunch from 12:00pm-12:30pm

24/7 Fax:
503-253-6564

Mailing Address - Mail only:
Dutchman Motorsports
PO Box 20517
Portland, OR 97294

Shipping Address - For UPS, Fedx, & Truck freight:
Dutchman Motorports
7937 NE Alberta St.
Portland, OR 97218

------------------
Ghostwalker

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88lambo
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Report this Post05-25-2012 08:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ghost walker thanks for Info but I already bought a axle from Dutchman (see page 3)

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taps
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Report this Post06-06-2012 02:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tapsSend a Private Message to tapsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

bump

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88lambo
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Report this Post06-13-2012 11:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88lamboSend a Private Message to 88lamboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Cold air Intakes roughed in...









Shifter installed...






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deezil
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Report this Post06-14-2012 10:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for deezilSend a Private Message to deezilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Mother of God...

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carbon
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Report this Post06-14-2012 11:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I want to hear it run...

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motoracer838
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Report this Post06-14-2012 07:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for motoracer838Click Here to Email motoracer838Send a Private Message to motoracer838Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

/\ /\ /\
What he said!!!

Joe

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