but really, you make this look easy. i've done this one or twice. i think i'll just pay you.
X2--I had Jazz drive over a few years ago and reapir a few columns for me, one that was in my DD and got loose fast. He made it look very easy but I can tell you there are alot of parts in there. If I need to have it done again, you better beilieve I will just shell out the money for James to do it.
Cliff has got to give us a repository for this stuff. It might take a few people to decide what goes in but we have to organize these threads better. This one will wind up in the archives with no pictures eventually.
I've only disassembled a tilt steering column once to fix a wobble problem and it was about a 2 hour job. Not all that difficult but you need to remove each part, note its location and position carefully and save them in a magnetic pan so they don't get lost. The parts only fit in one way so there is little chance for error, but there's just so many parts to fit and place. I hope not to be doing this job again anytime soon. Good post, excellent pics and instruction. However, a word to the wise; steering column repair should only be attempted by those mechanically competant and if I might add GREAT ARTICLE!!!
------------------ 87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 01-01-2009).]
The cap for the big tilt spring is fairly soft. If someone can't turn it, they probably haven't pushed it down far enough to clear. (Or pushed so far it's binding.) Don't force it or the hole will strip out.
It is tempting to pry or use a slide hammer to remove the tilt pivots. Be very careful if you try that. If they are stuck tight it is possible to break the casting that way. There are several ways to make a puller if you can't find the Lisle or other products at your local stores.
See how the anchor plate for the tilt assembly just hooks into the top of the column? That fairly weak connection is part of why the screws come loose. Even if you locktite the screws, avoid allowing the tilt to slam and don't use the steering wheel as a grab bar to enter/exit the vehicle. The assembly can come loose if it's abused just from flexing and damage to the anchor plate and column tube.
Someone once posted about the steering wheel falling down. Unless there is a major problem in the tilt system, the only way it can move w/o using the lever is someone is pulling/pushing pretty hard on the steering wheel. The latch will slip under high load. Every one I've seen does this so I have to think it was intentionally made to do so. Maybe to allow the steering wheel some float in a wreck. No sure idea but they are all built that way.
If you are having trouble with the ignition switch functions, and you've already adjusted/replaced the switch, the problem could be wear in one or more of the linkage parts shown above. The rack gear can often be found thru MotorMite's catalog and is fairly common at many parts stores. Be warned tho that such parts are usually not in the store's computer system as part of vehicle searches. You'll have to check store racks and/or paper catalogs.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
WOW! Awesome thread. I have added it to my favorites and given you a plus. I must say though, that first pic of all the parts reminds me of a reoccurring dream that ends with me waking up in a cold sweat.
Actually, under the headline it says "Written by Chris". Someone might get confused and think that's the case.
Also, you should provide a link to this page so that people can get the latest version, I've been updating and editing it regularly and will for a few more days until it's as good as I can get it.
Yeah, That "Written by Chris" is the software used to post an article. The first line in the article credits you. I will post an update link as well. I just felt it good to archive your post off-site for posterity and so that it won't disappear.
Hmmmm, James, you say that the key interlock is installed on the manual transmission columns. My son's '86 SE has one on his auto also. Do we have a car that has had a change-over?
If you have a lock lever next to the key in an automatic, someone changed the column with the wrong one. The interlock for the automatic uses a cable between the ignition switch and the shifter that unlocks in park. There are more notes on how that works in my cave tho I don't have pictures nearly as good as these.
Because of how the AT interlock works... If the cable is connected you'd have to put it in park and hit the lever to remove the key. While that could be annoying... If the cable is not connected to the ignition switch properly you've got a fairly serious safety problem. All it takes is leaving the trans unlocked just once to have a big legal problem from a run away car.
I considered starting a new thread for this, but this seems to be the place to ask...
My wiper fluid pump is not functioning. I bought a new pump and the fuse is good. The only other area I think might be suspect would be the switch inside the column. When I press the little paddle on the stalk forward, the wipers will swipe a few times as they should, but no pump activity. Could the switch be bad? Is there a relay I need to check?
I did check the 2 relays that are right next to the Wiper fluid reservoir. I know one of them is for the blower fan, not sure what the other is for. I swapped them and the blower works either way, so I assume both relays are good.