Some... Lock plate, turn signal switch (5 screws), and key switch (puts in). 1 bolt hold the lock.
Need Steering wheel puller Lock plate tool 2 Phillip Screw drive, #2 for inside and #1 for hazard, Torx screw driver
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Thanks for the write-up. I/m going to bookmark this page and download the pdf is saw.....
I have a question... Is it possible to change the steering wheel to the disconnects config... Like the racers... and for theft reasons. I've seen the attachments but I don't know if they fit our cars... Has anyone tried this before?
I have a question... Is it possible to change the steering wheel to the disconnects config... Like the racers... and for theft reasons. I've seen the attachments but I don't know if they fit our cars... Has anyone tried this before?
You mean having the steering wheel you can pull off like on stock cars? You have a good point. Having no steering wheel in the car while its parked would make a great antitheft device.
I have a question myself. I cant seem to find a cancelling cam. The part where the horn spring loaded thingy goes in was broken when I got the car. There are no fieros in my area on death row(wrecking yard) plus I think a cancel cam shouldn't be something you have to get from a boneyard. I mean, they fail almost as much as the turn signal switch, which they DO have at my local parts stores, so where do I get a cancel cam? And why doesn't the turn signal switch just have a cancel cam come with it? I would be willing to pay an extra 5-10 bucks on every turn signal switch I buy for the rest of my life just to have the cancel cam be there so when I need it, its there. Seems like every second or third one I replace also needs a cancel cam. Maybe there's another GM car with a cancel cam that fits?
[This message has been edited by guitarjerry (edited 03-07-2010).]
nevermind. If you search for "cancel cam" or "turn signal cancel cam" you get nothing but if you look under turn signal and turn signal directional cam on checker's site, there it is. the non- tilt wheel one. But no tilt wheel listed. So, just for fun, I arbitrarily put in 89 grand am 2.5L. It listed the exact same part for the non-tilt wheel, so I think the one listed under grand am for tilt wheel will work dorman 83232
I haven't had this car long, but with all the hassles I'd almost swear there was some kind of conspiracy going on in the parts industry against fiero owners.
[This message has been edited by guitarjerry (edited 03-07-2010).]
Hi, great info and great pictrures! I have an early second gen Camaro (1971) and I'm trying to go through the tilt steering column with flloor shift. I can't seem to find any info to help me disassembly it. Do you by chance know where I could get detailed instructions/pictures like this for my column? Any help would be appreicated. Thanks, Tony
i was unable to get the two pivot pins out. the first one came out easily - the second had the threads stripped as i tried to pull it out. i tried to drill out the threads and tap in larger threads but the drillbit broke off as i worked. now i have to get another steering column. so much for the convenience of options on cars. jon
------------------ I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!
nevermind. If you search for "cancel cam" or "turn signal cancel cam" you get nothing but if you look under turn signal and turn signal directional cam on checker's site, there it is. the non- tilt wheel one. But no tilt wheel listed. So, just for fun, I arbitrarily put in 89 grand am 2.5L. It listed the exact same part for the non-tilt wheel, so I think the one listed under grand am for tilt wheel will work dorman 83232
I haven't had this car long, but with all the hassles I'd almost swear there was some kind of conspiracy going on in the parts industry against fiero owners.
an update, i was able to get the two pivot pins out by pulling the column, and using a 9/16 socket with a #8x32 screw, a nut and a couple of washers to pull the pin out. i have then been able to dig into the column and access the four offending bolts. i have red locktited them and torked them as best as i could using a 1/4" 6 point socket. i hope i found all the ball bearings.
jon
edit: i successfully completed the repair and i drove my car yesterday - wow! what a difference! if i can do this, you probably can too! thank you God for Jazzman and his great writeup! thanks Jazzman!
[This message has been edited by longjonsilver (edited 12-01-2010).]
Hello. I just joined not because I have a Fiero but because I have a Fiero steering column (manual trans) in my LT1 powered MGB project car. The car has been widened 11" and has C4 suspension. Pictures are here if you are interested http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581
I read through Jazzman's tutorial and it is very good but I have a question. I want to remove the ignition switch, locking mechanism and key removal lever. Can I do this without affecting the turn signal, high beam and wiper functions?
I understand Jazzman has left the site but hopefully someone else can shed some light.
I haven't been able to find the post that is just to fix the wobbly steering wheel. Would you be able to reply with a link to it or something please? Thanks!
It sounds like you want a remote key system? If so, sure, you can remove the ignition switch, lock cylinder, and lock pin w/ spring, but you must keep the lock plate as it is part of the assembly stack and holds the horn cancel cam and plastic trim cover in place properly. You'll need to retain the ignition sector since it guides the high beam follower. You should be able to get away with bolting just the high-beam switch on the column without the ignition switch, though it may be necessary to put some spacer washers under the switch to replace the missing ignition switch assembly.
I got the column back together and the tutorial was a lifesaver, thanks Jazzman. One thing I noticed after I got it together id that it is not necessary to retain the sector or the gear, they have no effect on the high beam follower that I could see. I would post a picture of the column without the key lock but I can't figure out how to add pictures on this forum
Hello, I has a earlier Chevy Tilt Column without a shifter on it. Can you let me know where to find the two bearing right before and after the signal mechanism it has 12 balls in each of them and I believe they may be in a plastic retainer they are the one you show in your photo. Thanks
Just a bump - I had a wobbly steering column on my Formula - my son has been driving it and made a comment the other day that the steering wheel was wobbly. Last night he said it was really bad so I took a look - he was right. It had several inches of movement - every direction. I followed this thread in reverse to tear it down to the bolts (I used a few shortcuts - did not disconnect any wires - just pulled the slack through the column and was able to pull each piece off and let them hang). All four were completely backed out!
I was able to tear it down and put it back together using this thread - ran into a little snag when it was time to remove the pivot pins. I attempted to use a machine screw and "wiggle" each out - was afraid that I would snap the screw off. I posted here in tech and started the internet for a tool. Ended up getting a puller at O'Riellys - worked perfect.
Thanks Jazz for your hard work in this thread!
Thought I'd post a couple of current links for the pivot pin puller tool.
Picked up a column to replace mine with stripped holes for the infamous 4 loose bolts. Found that the replacement columns main shaft was 1 inch shorter than the one I just took out of my car. So I had to disassemble two columns to make one good one. So there are at least two different length main shafts out there.
Thanks for the great tech how-to but I haven't been able to see any of the photos. All I have are broken links. Is there somewhere to see the pics that go along with this post? (I can view pics on other posts so I know it's not my browser settings.)
I'm asking because I just did this repair on my GM tilt column and the steering wheel still wobbles, so I'm wondering what/where I went wrong.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
[This message has been edited by fstop (edited 11-02-2011).]
Just a note abt the pivot pin removal tool posted by katatak above:
You can borrow everything but this tool from O'Reilly's/Checker/Kragen Auto Parts (depending on where you live) Steering wheel puller and lock plate removal tools are free loaners from O'Reilly's, et al. The pivot pin tool is $9.99 which was least expensive I found, including Ebay. (Tho it was priced less, shipping made it a lot more expensive and of course, you had to wait for it to arrive.)
Anyway, you can do the whole job for just $9.99 + tax.
If you don't have any Loc-tite handy or are too cheap (or broke) to buy any, you can use your wife's (or girlfriend's) clear nail polish on the bolt threads. Just be sure and wipe the grease off of the bottle before returning it or you'll have more problems than just a loose tilt assembly.
[This message has been edited by fstop (edited 11-02-2011).]
I was chasing down a looseness problem that my car has had forever. Ever since I've owned my 88 GT, (06/2003) it has always had loose steering issues, not the usual column falling apart thing. The car had 183K on the ODO already. First I traced a large amount of the play to the passenger side steering rack bushing. So I pulled the rack and found that not only was the bushing shot, but the rack's whole rack gear was corroded, and rusted pretty bad, and as well, the pinion's shaft bearing had deteriorated and broken apart.
I got a good core rack from the local U-Pull-it, did the Rodney dickman bushing, greased the internals, added new bellows and all ball joints and thought this would be the last I'd have to deal with the looseness in the steering. Don't get me wrong, it helped greatly. But It still had some considerable looseness. I gave up on hunting it down for the last 5 years. I had rebuilt the whole front end in 2007, only to have no difference in steering yet again.
Two days ago I decided that enough was enough. At 243K miles, I've had it with this loose steering. I proceeded to jiggle the wheel and find out if there was any looseness translating between the steering wheel and the rack. I noticed that the U-Joints under the steering colum were not exactly responsive to steering wheel jiggling. An AH HA moment. Must be something in the column!
Pulled the steering column apart, and found a great deal of looseness in the U-Joint at the tilt knuckle. Once I took it apart I found the little wire spring in the center of the plastic ball was broken in half. The joint was loose and flopping about. I got a used spring from The Las Vegas Fiero Club (Thanks Rich!) and put it in the ball, and deliberately installed the ball upside down and backwards from its original configuration, it just seemed tighter that way. And presto, the joint wasn't floppy anymore. Got it all back together and into the car and for the first time in the last 60K miles, my car drives like it was meant to. Dare I say it, it feels like a new Fiero.
I can't believe that little spring had such a profound effect on the feel of the steering. It always had almost 1/2" of play. I was always fighting the looseness on the highway.
i hope i found all the ball bearings. 
