Hey why make them still a pop up? Could one not just glass these to the under side of the hood? Like slip them up throught the bottom and the edges that keep it from coming all the way through - glass those edges into the bottom of the hood. then you won't have to re paint anything (unless you want to reenforce it more and if you REALY want to - or jsut make it an excuse to repaint the hood or the entire car even) and then you won't have to deal with teh pop ups at all. That's what those lights were made fro when they made it for those 3rd gen rx-7s i got a buddy of mine around town with those to replace the popups on his 3rd gen. (god is that car fast! it makes this unholly sound when it makes it's 9.3 pass errrrrriiiiyawaaaaaaahhhhhh!... sweet)
but good idea for a mod ther man- there is also replacement sockets for all the gens of mr2s and the 2nd gen rx7s. there is also head light replacements for the corvettes- and the 240SXs - and i am sure that there are others to make it so the pop up are not an issue as they have been with many cars.
Have you condsidered the other cars that have retractable headlight replacements to make them projectors to do this kind of thing or did you just kinda run accross these especific ones?
I just finished installing mine about an hour ago. As far as adjusting the lights go, they have their own screws at the back to adjust. It is fairly easy. I had to do a great deal of cutting, more so than I really wanted to do to get them to close properly. I still have a problem on one of them. I'll fix it tomorrow. I have to admit that I was very impressed with the quality of the lights. I was not expecting it for that kind of money. The "angel eyes" look great and just gives the car a whole new look. I'll post pics later. Hope this helps.
The lights seem to sit a little too low in the bucket with them all the way up, like the bottom of the beam does not clear the hood. Can that be adjusted haf an inch or so?
If you're talking about pic 1 & 3 then yes, I noticed it when you said something about it. You got a very good eye for detail. The bumper light in pic 1 is different from pic 3. hmm. why? sounds like a government conspiracy!
[This message has been edited by fierogtowner (edited 03-05-2006).]
Like Alex De Jorg said there are adjuster built into the system. I am glad to see that My idea is being used so quickly. We will get rid of all them big ugly pop ups Yet. I have a very good hood vent system so I don't think I'll have any problem with the covers popping up at speed. Also I thought about mounting the lights directly to the hood and may do that on my other Fiero, I do like having pop up lights I think the car looks better without exposed lights
Good Luck with your mods
Joe Sokol
------------------ 85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe- 86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC - 88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast Enough parts outside for another one -And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-
Several people have asked about the front bumper on my car, it is a Formula bumper that I modded by putting in turn signal units from a Eagle Talon. I didn't like how far back the turm signals were mounted by Ponitac, so I made mine different. The next Mod is the replace the manual heating and AC system with a computer controlled unit from a Caddy
Joe Sokol
------------------ 85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe- 86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC - 88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast Enough parts outside for another one -And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-
Alex: Very Nice Job . Thanks for the info, + for you
Joe: Yep, you Definitely Started sometthing here .
To everyone:
1. I saw the adjustment screws on the lights but wondered if you could still reach them after the lights were mounted ?
2. Does anybody know if there is a requirement about which lights are highbeam and which are low beam ? Seems I saw a recent thread that said something like the law (?) required low beams to be the outboard lights ?
3. For highbeams, are ALL (4) lights supposed to come on or just the inside ones ? They sent me an invoice but no instructions
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 03-06-2006).]
it took me the better part of Saturday and Sunday. The biggest thing was that I had to keep cutting away so that the cover would go down with no problem. Also, spent quite a bit of time adjusting. As far as the light being perhaps too low in the bucket, just a tad bit. I must admit that these light are quite bright. I took a test drive last night and I was able to see with no problem whatsoever.
when I turn on the high beam "on", the inside lights turn off and the outside ones come "on". As far as wiring goes, it is very easy. the main lights are plu n play. the only thing I had to do was hook up the angel eyes. Overall very straight forward.
I just thought of something. If all (4) of the bulbs are the same, then all (4) are supposed to be on when the high beams are ON. It should be easy to tell how these lights were designed by looking at the bulbs. The high beams and low beams should have different bulbs if the system was designed to use only (2) lights at a time. Right ?
The wiring for the lights are of different colors. I believe the low beam light has a blue harness and the high beam has a red harness. Anyway, there is a difference when you put the high beams on.
I been reading this for a while and did some research. If the bulbs do use the H7 bulb then yes both sets of lits should go on. The H7 is used in alot of older bimers with H1 as high beam. It is said to be used for both High and Low beam. the reason you can tell a difference when you turn on just the inside is the angels inside unit. High pattern is more consentrated so it seams brighter. I plan on wiring them so the low beams are always on when the headlights are up. Except when just on Parking light. When just on parking light the halos will be on only like BMW's have.
I do have to admit i like the sleepy eye look- but i think my lights pop up hihger then that stock on my 85 gt- how did you get it so it does nto go all wthe way up and matchies the hight of the new lights?
There is no adjustment for the height of the light. With the lower overall height of the new bucket the motors still drive full travel they just don't move as high as the old buckets. I did not get any wiring diagrams with my set either. From looking at the wiring harness I believe that the relay is to turn on both lights via a switch. I plan on doing the final wiring on mine (I completed the cosmetic work on my buckets today) tomorrow and I will post what I comeup with then.
Joe Sokol
------------------ 85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe- 86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC - 88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast Enough parts outside for another one -And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-
Paulk thanks for the info, however the way I am going is to install a instrument cluster from a 92 Caddy that has a builtin climate control system. I has the complete AC/Heater system for a caddy that I am going to meld into my 4.9 powered Formula. Will post on that in a different thread.
Joe Sokol
------------------ 85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe- 86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC - 88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast Enough parts outside for another one -And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-
Young : Well, I just checked and All Four are 55 watt H7 bulbs. So I guess I'll wire these so that the outside ones are low beam with high beams on halo and the inside come on when the HIGH beam is ON (then the halos stay ON or go OFF ?) I saw a BMW on the way home tonight and that's the way his were - legal configuration, i guess.
Does anybody know for sure that the stock fiero headlight wiring will handle 110 watts for an indefinite period ? In other words, do the stock HIGH beams draw 110 watts ? I'm REALLY curious to know how many watts the stock HIGH beams draw. I sometimes drive long trips and would NOT wanna be 6 hours into an 8 hour trip and have the wiring burn through and knock the headlights out been there, done that, NOT fun. Any technical gurus know this ?
Come to think of it, if I use the relay (in the wiring harness that came with the lights) for the HIGH beams, the stock wiring would only need to handle the 55 watts for the low beams + watts for the halo + the watts for the HIGH beam relay. Sound about right, Joe ?
Since the stock headlights have a single light with (2) filaments, the low beam wire is live for low beam, then must go "dead" when the HIGH beam wire goes "live" (?) The new lights will need to use the relay provided to keep the low beam "live" when the HIGH bems are turned ON. This is gonna take some wiring configuratin'
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 03-07-2006).]
By the way, what is the best brand of "white beam" H7 bulbs. I might as well do this B4 I do the install. i had SilverStars a while ago in another car, and they still looked "yellow-ish". I'm looking for something "white' or "blue - white" that lasts a while. THANKS
I am not sure if the halos stay on when the highs are on. There was a thread that talked about how to wire so the lows where always on. they also talked about the wattage the breaker could take. The stock config is 55low 65high. when you turn on highs the lows turn off. I had silverstars and was very happy. PIAA also has some whit bulbs but they are expensive around 50-70 dollars and i have never seen tham in person.
The end result seems to be similar to the Hella conversion I put on my car:
------------------ www.yellowfiero.com 17" DEZENT T wheels with 215/40 tires front and 235/45 rear, KONI shocks, EIBACH lowering springs, drilled/slotted rotors, SS brake hoses. PU dog bone, all bushings and engine mounts, K&N air and oil filters, Rebuilt&blueprinted V6, BORLA exhaust. Mercedes SLK yellow paintjob, Mr. Mikes leather seats, door skins, shift and e-brake boots. MP3 deck and custom subwoofer behind passenger seat, F355 style front, Aus' Stage 2 side scoops, "Fie Ro" extractor front scoop. Fiero Store rear swaybar, strut tower brace, black carpet, air intake. Rodney Dickman's competition short shifter, SS vacuum lines and deck lid strut. Billet aluminum dash kit from Kitcarman.
I really like the conversion, and the price is right. However I think I will wait to see how it turns out for a few others before I try it. The one thing that sort of distracts from the conversion is the bucket does not come up far enough for the entire headlight to clear the hood.
When I look at Yellowstone's conversion, it looks more like it belongs since the light itself clears the hood.
In completing the wiring for this setup I found the the relay with the long pigtail attached will power the low beams when the High beams are on. You have to connect the pig tails to a 12V source, I conneted directly to the battery on my car (battery is front mounted) I connected the Angle Eyes to the running lights.
Hope this helps with anyone else that wants to get away from the OLD STYLE lights.
Joe Sokol
------------------ 85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe- 86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC - 88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast Enough parts outside for another one -And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-
------------------ 85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe- 86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC - 88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast Enough parts outside for another one -And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-
Joe: after Alex said they were "plug n play" I looked in the box, found the wiring harnesses and saw the in-line relay. I suspected that either the relay was designed to handle the load for the HIGH beams or could be modified to do so. Unfortunately I'm a little short on time these days, so this project will only be a dream for a week or 2
Congradulations on a beautiful ob and thanks again to everyone for sharing ...
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 03-08-2006).]
If you put a constant 12 volts on the wire that runs from relay through the fuse you will find that the Low beams stay on when you shift to the High beams. I wire the 2 together and then to the battery. That's how I got the last picture I posted. couldn't be easier (that part at least). Good luck with your setup. Any questions just drop me an email at sokolja@adelphia.net
Joe Sokol
------------------ 85 SE 2.8 - beater coupe- 86 SE 3.4 -in progress 3800 II SC - 88 Formula GT 4.9 5 speed beast Enough parts outside for another one -And a 3.4 push rod for sale in the mall Go and look-
I think I'm gonna use the American Products corp. (APC) 55 watt bulbs for the low beams and Street Dreams 70 Watt bulbs for the HIGH beams. Looks like they're On Sale from JC Whitney
. To me, they just look right on the car ...
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