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Thermostat housing gasket by donuteater306
Started on: 07-20-2014 12:26 AM
Replies: 8 (354 views)
Last post by: theogre on 02-21-2015 11:45 AM
donuteater306
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Report this Post07-20-2014 12:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for donuteater306Click Here to Email donuteater306Send a Private Message to donuteater306Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Going to replace my housing gasket tomorrow. Should I use a smear of RTV on both sides of the gasket, or just make sure both surfaces are clean and install the gasket dry?

Old paper gasket soaked through after 4 years. Hoping to avoid that from happening again.
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Patrick
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Report this Post07-20-2014 03:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Make sure the thermostat housing flange is flat.

It might be regarded as "old-school" now, but for 40 years I've used Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® in situations like this. I'd put on a very thin layer on both sides of the gasket.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-20-2014).]

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donuteater306
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Report this Post07-20-2014 08:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for donuteater306Click Here to Email donuteater306Send a Private Message to donuteater306Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey thank you. I did use a thin layer on both sides this time. Hope to get more than 4 years out of this one.
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fierosound
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Report this Post07-21-2014 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There's a better gasket available.

I found Fel-pro PN 35595 for GM engines has a nice rubber ring embedded in it.
The bolt holes are a perfect match - only need to elongate them slightly outward.






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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-22-2014).]

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jaskispyder
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Report this Post07-21-2014 02:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Make sure the thermostat housing flange is flat.

It might be regarded as "old-school" now, but for 40 years I've used Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® in situations like this. I'd put on a very thin layer on both sides of the gasket.



Yup... just enough to seal any imperfections. I have also used Permatex high tack sealant.
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fieromatty
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Report this Post02-20-2015 11:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromattyClick Here to Email fieromattySend a Private Message to fieromattyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks fierosound for the gasket idea. I tried to find your original thread to post this, but I can't find so it. +1 to you sir.
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fierogt28
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Report this Post02-21-2015 02:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierogt28Click Here to Email fierogt28Send a Private Message to fierogt28Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

There's a better gasket available.

I found Fel-pro PN 35595 for GM engines has a nice rubber ring embedded in it.
The bolt holes are a perfect match - only need to elongate them slightly outward.







Fierosound, this is an excellent idea and upgrade. Thanks for sharing...

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theogre
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Report this Post02-21-2015 11:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"Paper" failed then likely Tstat is not flat or dirty etc or used wrong gasket.

Many "paper" and cork gasket use High Tack but Many Tstat housing have problem from over torquing the bolts etc.

RTV takes 24hr or more to full cure. Cold weather can take days to cure. Freezing weather might many can't cure or takes week or more to cure. Dry and not sticky IS NOT full cure. You can't load coolant or drive until then.

RTV hate oil/grease, coolant, rust, or dirt on pieces to seal. Best last step is brake cleaner.

Above work on v6...
L4 have two types. If L4 Tstat housing have thick flat flange then won't work and you can't get new silicon "o-ring." I made one from flat cork supply, apply w/ little RTV and then let RTV to cure for 2-3 days.

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theogre
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Report this Post02-21-2015 11:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
There's a better gasket available.

I found Fel-pro PN 35595 for GM engines has a nice rubber ring embedded in it.
The bolt holes are a perfect match - only need to elongate them slightly outward.

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

That is likely a Fel-Pro Printoseal gasket. Most Printoseal... Do Not use any added sealer on printed side. That can make Printoseal plastic useless.
Might be fine using High-tack on unprinted side. High-tack is part sealant and part "glue" to keep gasket in place to start bolts etc.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-21-2015).]

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