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transmission slipping issue by lowtrickry
Started on: 07-15-2014 08:18 PM
Replies: 14 (280 views)
Last post by: lowtrickry on 07-25-2014 07:39 PM
lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-15-2014 08:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
3800 series ii sc \ 4t65e HD...

Put it about 10 or 10.5 qts I've Ben checking it in park after warming up for a few min. Dipstick is finally showing where its suposta on hash marks. But the transmission still seams to be slipping. As I was adding fluid I drove it around parking lot and the slipping feeling got better and better as I added more fluid but now that its showing where it is suposta it still feels like I'm driving on ice "slipping" but its not bad it picks up nice but you can deff feel the slip. In reverse it feels fine. I tried shifting through the gears a few times, but I still haven't taken it out of the driveway.

Does it need to be driven to get the fluid all through it and into the torqe converter properly. Am I doing something wrong ? Or does it sound like I'm having a transmission issue.

[This message has been edited by lowtrickry (edited 07-17-2014).]

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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-17-2014 02:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bump...

Please help this is the last issues I need to fix to get this thing ready to go on the road and drive my baby after the swap and all the money I've sunk in....

Please please help me....

Should I take it on the road and drive it around to work the fluid through

A few things I should mention... I ran it a couple time for aboutn3 minwith no tranny fluid it buy never took it out of park ... Then I ran it a few time in between adding fluid and drove it up in down the driveway the symptoms got better and better as i added more n more between runs,out of the ten or so qgs I put in 8 or nine were recommended Dex vi and about 1 at n a half of Dex iii. Also the tranny cooler is currently not hooked upnnn an the lines are run directly to each other circumventing it.

PLESE o PLEASE help a brother out....
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post07-17-2014 04:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Does the VSS signal make it to the PCM? If it isn't the transmission won't be shifted properly and it will start out in the wrong gear.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-17-2014).]

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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-17-2014 06:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not sure what the vss signal is. If it isn't makeinh it there properly will it through a trouble code? I'm not sure what I'm looking for to answer your question. But I apriciaye your help... If you could tell me what to look for I can figure it out.

Also would I be able to down shift to first and give it a run and if that is the issue it will get rid of the symptop? Or will it still act funny.

I've heard people say that you need to drive it on the road for a few minutes to get it war!ed properly and to get the fluid throughout the trans!issim properly, not sure it that's true.
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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-17-2014 06:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Vss vehical speed sensor.... How do I test to see if the signal is getting to the PCM and also test the vss itself.

Not sure if it matters I imagine not but I don't have my gauges hooked up. I bought after market led digital gauges that I plan on hooking up down the road. My OEM gauges have Ben damaged on the back where the thin ribbon style circite board is for all the dummy lights and what not. And when I hooked them up a while back none of the gauges were working atalll not even the ones feed by the plugs on the bottom.

Thanks for your help phonedawgs
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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-17-2014 07:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm guessing I have to test for resistance on the sensor and the plug but I done know the tolerances or the exact procedure for it.

Any help would be greatly apriciated, thank you greatly.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post07-17-2014 11:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A scanner will tell you if your PCM is showing vehicle speed. A working speedo also would have but ...

The two wires of the VSS should run from the VSS directly to the PCM.
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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-20-2014 06:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I can un plug the sensor and test the sensor with a meter while the vehicles moving and also test the plug wires I just need to know what readings tolerances I'm looking for
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post07-20-2014 07:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If the transmission shifts the same with the VSS unplugged suspect no VSS signal to the PCM
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84fiero123
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Report this Post07-20-2014 08:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by lowtrickry:

Bump...

Please help this is the last issues I need to fix to get this thing ready to go on the road and drive my baby after the swap and all the money I've sunk in....

Please please help me....

Should I take it on the road and drive it around to work the fluid through

A few things I should mention... I ran it a couple time for aboutn3 minwith no tranny fluid it buy never took it out of park ... Then I ran it a few time in between adding fluid and drove it up in down the driveway the symptoms got better and better as i added more n more between runs,out of the ten or so qgs I put in 8 or nine were recommended Dex vi and about 1 at n a half of Dex iii. Also the tranny cooler is currently not hooked upnnn an the lines are run directly to each other circumventing it.

PLESE o PLEASE help a brother out....





When you say you ran it, just how long and how did you run it before you put fluid in it? Even when in park the trany insides are moving as well as the fluid, if there is enough fluid in there to move, if there isn't enough in there, then there isn't enough to cool and lubricate the internal moving parts.

First a disclaimer, I am not a trany guy but have helped RR a few in the old days in rear wheel drive cars and when they are reassembled they were done with fluid soaked discs/clutches and if you ran it for any length of time without any fluid in it you may have smoked those clutches.

When I helped reinstall a rebuilt or new trany we NEVER started the engine until we had at least 10 quarts in or it at least showed up on the dipstick and even then only started the engine and ran the gear shift lever threw the gears, never drove the vehicle anywhere at all until we had the right amount of fluid in it.

I sure hope you didn't toast those clutches but fear you may have. Fingers crossed that you didn't, good luck dude, you are going to need it.

I am sure some of the people more familiar with tranies will post here soon enough with even more and better info on them, lets hope I am wrong.

edit to add.

you haven't got the trany cooler hooked up yet, AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH, god help you that is also part of the trany fill process while it doesn't amount to a lot of extra fluid it does add what a pint of fluid that will change the reading on the dipstick. when ever I did a new trany I put in an after market cooler as the one in the radiator is simply a couple of the fins in the lower part of your radiator. Cooling trany fluid is one of THE MOST IMPORTANT things and can toast a trany quicker than almost anything. Like I said above I hope I am wrong as I know just how much work it is to change these things. Try changing a trany in a Full time 4 WD 70s pickup with a cast iron transfer case on you back on the floor with no lift, I have done that when I had a back and never want to have to do that again or any trany work again for that mater in a FWD vehicle because to be honest they are a pain in the ass !

Another edit to add,

Take the dipstick out, do not start the engine, smell the fluid on the dipstick. If it smells like burnt almonds you have toasted the clutches.

Steve

------------------
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and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 07-20-2014).]

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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-24-2014 02:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pulled the codes today....

I'm getting p1860

Torque converter clutch pulse width modulation selonoid circuit

I don't know much about automatic transmissions so I don't know where to go from here.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post07-24-2014 06:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by lowtrickry:

Pulled the codes today....

I'm getting p1860

Torque converter clutch pulse width modulation selonoid circuit

I don't know much about automatic transmissions so I don't know where to go from here.


P1860 Description


The Torque Converter Clutch Pulse Width Modulation (TCC PWM) solenoid valve controls the fluid acting on the converter clutch valve. The converter clutch valve controls the TCC application and release. The solenoid attaches to the control valve body within the transmission. The solenoid receives ignition voltage through circuit 239. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the solenoid by providing a ground path on circuit 418. Current flows through the solenoid coil according to the duty cycle (percentage of ON and OFF time). The TCC PWM solenoid valve provides a smooth engagement of the torque converter clutch by operating during a duty cycle percent of ON time.


Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1860.html#ixzz38QVkwkm3

Good luck

Steve
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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-24-2014 07:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Anyone have instructions for testing the wireing so I can eliminate that before blaming the selonoid ? I have a scan tool can I diagnose the problem running the data with the scanner.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post07-25-2014 08:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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lowtrickry
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Report this Post07-25-2014 07:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lowtrickryClick Here to Email lowtrickrySend a Private Message to lowtrickryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sweet thank you... Anyone know how long a job it is. Also a decent instruction manual for replacing the selonoids, I'm most likely going to do all of them under the side cover while its out. There's a selonoid kit on eBay for like 90 buck I figure just get er done while I'm in there.
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