I need some advise. I did something stupid and started my Fiero 2.8 after a year of storage. Started right up but she stalls in idle. Bad gas. So it's been changed. Fuel injector cleaners and a stabilizer has been added. Spark plugs were changed as was the PCV valve. Everything on this car has been replaced. She will run. Even up to 100mph. But if I am cruising along at 65 I backfire and stall. I stall at lights. The computer has been reset several times. She will run for about a minute and a half and then stall. No one here will touch a Fiero. So I do everything myself. This has me baffled, and frustrated. PLEASE all advise will be tried. Thanks in advance,
------------------ Phil B in AZ POCI Member since 2002 pjphotostudio.com
[This message has been edited by PhilBinAZ (edited 07-15-2014).]
Have you checked the ignition timing? Also look at the engine running when it is dark outside and see if you see any arcing from the plug wires. Have you replaced the plugs?
Have you checked the ignition timing? Also look at the engine running when it is dark outside and see if you see any arcing from the plug wires. Have you replaced the plugs?
Ditto on the timing check, back fires are generally timing related at least they used to be before cars got taken over by computers. I hate technology !
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
What about the plug wires? Old/dirty plug wires will cross fire quite easily. Causing backfires, stumbling, etc. Will likely be worse in humid conditions.
Q1 - When it does this it starts right up again no problem?
Q2 - What does the tach do when this happens? - I suspect it acts normal but look to see if it drops out during this event. If your tach is wacking out all the time take a look at your pick up coil. Does it look like it is falling apart? If so it needs to be replaced.
It's the thing wrapped in tape inside your distributor -
Q3 - Does your check engine light come one key on engine off? It should that indicates it works - Q3 (the real question) Assuming the light does work, do you get a check engine light when this happens?
Q4 - Is that check engine light for code 42?
If you are getting code 42 check the 4 pin wire connector on the distributor. If that looks good then replace the ICM. If not a code 42 then tell us what you are getting.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-16-2014).]
Thanks guys. Everything is new. Only 12,000 miles. This started with bad gas. That I know. When she runs as I said she runs as good as ever. The idle at least on my tach runs at 1100rpm. Then drops to 900 then a stall. Starts right up. If I rev up to let's say 3000rpm and hold it she will still cut out. If I step on the gas as she is stalling it backfires and runs again. Even though I only had 12000 miles on the plugs, wires and PVC I still changed them. I'm not a mechanic but I did with the help of a former friend build this car. If any of you are here in AZ I own the white SE that was featured in POCI a couple of years back. So she was running like new. I had to garage her for health reasons and just forgot about bad gas. I haven't read the codes. My check engine light is always on. I was told it probably was a small vacuum leak because I have always passed Emission. I will try anything. Thanks again
------------------ Phil B in AZ POCI Member since 2002 pjphotostudio.com
I would suspect either a vacuum leak or even may something in the fuel system. My Fiero here in Phoenix has a lot of rust and contaminants in the fuel tank. While I had my tank down, I cleaned out the loose rust, replaced the sending unit (float was stuck on mine) and fuel pump. It also wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filter and flush out the fuel line too.
Since you here in the valley, there are several of us who cruise usually one weekend a month after the heat subsides. Keep an eye out on General and Event forum for our next outing.
I was in the Arizona Fiero Club before it went away. I have also replaced the gas tank and fuel sending unit. I have steel fuel lines. Oscelot exhaust. Just took her out and hit 115mph. So it is moving. Just stalls on idle. I have done everything that I did when I built her. Back checking all the way. The only thing I didn't change yet us the brand new fuel filter. Not even 2,000 miles on it. If it can hit 115mph how does she stall at idle. Someone asked, it is an automatic. Oil pressure is perfect. Oil temp is perfect. Volts are perfect. A/F is not lean. Vacuum is perfect. And yes the tank is full of premium with cleaners and stablizer. So I am completely lost. Thanks again...
------------------ Phil B in AZ POCI Member since 2002 pjphotostudio.com
[This message has been edited by PhilBinAZ (edited 07-16-2014).]
VSS is stock. I'm sorry, what does that do to cause a stall? It ran perfectly until the bad gas. What am I missing? Seems as simple as the timing but I have reset the EMC. I just finally found my code ready and will get that tomorrow. Something between the gas and the injectors. Except everything is new, except the fuel filter which is 2000 miles
------------------ Phil B in AZ POCI Member since 2002 pjphotostudio.com
Good morning. I am getting code 12 only. I have it down to the air intake. Unplugged TPS and she doesn't stall. Reset ECM. Connected the wire and stall. These manuals SUCK!!!
------------------ Phil B in AZ POCI Member since 2002 pjphotostudio.com
The stalling at idle and at lights is a symptom of torque converter solenoid failure. The torque converter stays locked all the time. Try unplugging it. You won't go as fast or get as good mileage until you replace the part, which can be difficult on later models, but yours should be pretty easy.
Good morning. I am getting code 12 only. I have it down to the air intake. Unplugged TPS and she doesn't stall. Reset ECM. Connected the wire and stall. These manuals SUCK!!!
It always flashes code 12 three times before it flashes the code numbers then after flashes code 12 again three more times, are you sure you waited long enough to see the bad codes? Just asking because with the light constantly on it has to have some codes stored and if you want to clear them and start again just disconnect the battery for a few mins and then reconnect. That should clear all codes stored and resent the check engine light, unless there is something else wrong.
Hey guys, I did unplug the TPI and it ran with a high idle. Let it run. Plugged it back in and it ran without stalling. Took her around the block and man did she move! The idle is high. 2200rph but I'm guessing that it will adjust when the ECM learns. That was a very stupid move on my part. Never start the stored car with gas that has been sitting for over a year. Thanks for all the advise!!
------------------ Phil B in AZ POCI Member since 2002 pjphotostudio.com
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