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88 ball joint torque question. by fierofinder
Started on: 06-28-2014 09:34 PM
Replies: 9 (236 views)
Last post by: Bloozberry on 06-29-2014 10:31 PM
fierofinder
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Report this Post06-28-2014 09:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofinderClick Here to Email fierofinderSend a Private Message to fierofinderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I started tightening everything up in the front end so I can get it set back on wheels. With the upper and lower ball joints Im worried I tightened them too tight. I got ahead of myself and tightened them down then I went back and checked the manual for torque specs(I know should have done that first) and the torque isn't that high for these bolts. Should I just leave it or redo it. The main thing Im worried about is messing up the spindles.
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post06-28-2014 10:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
On such a critical component, it's always better to remove the nut, check that you haven't distorted the threads by over-tightening, then re-torque to proper specs. No need to pop them and start over, just re-tighten the nuts properly once you've assured yourself that the threads are OK. If you have bungled the threads, then there's a good chance you won't be able to achieve the proper torque at all.
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fierofinder
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Report this Post06-28-2014 10:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofinderClick Here to Email fierofinderSend a Private Message to fierofinderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So at this point I should be worried about the threads rather than the spindle. That's a relief. was worried I could have mushroomed out the holes on the spindle.
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lateFormula
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Report this Post06-29-2014 12:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lateFormulaSend a Private Message to lateFormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The torque spec is important, BUT you need to torque the ball joints to the recommended value, then tighten whatever amount to align the slots in the castle nut to the hole in the ball joint stud, then insert the cotter pin.

[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 06-29-2014).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post06-29-2014 07:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofinder:
That's a relief. was worried I could have mushroomed out the holes on the spindle.


The threads in either the nut or on the ball joint would give way well before you could distort the hole in the spindle.

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fierofinder
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Report this Post06-29-2014 12:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofinderClick Here to Email fierofinderSend a Private Message to fierofinderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
At 26 lbs plus 1/2 a turns seems tighter than I had the lower ball joint nut before and I cant even get it that far I have a quarter turn. Is it suppose to be this tight? Should I keep going?
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Report this Post06-29-2014 01:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sounds like the threads on either the nut or the stud have galled. I'd back it off again and have another careful look. It's possible you did the damage the first time around and now it's showing up as you attempt to tighten it a second time.
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fierofinder
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Report this Post06-29-2014 08:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofinderClick Here to Email fierofinderSend a Private Message to fierofinderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I replaced the upper nuts because they looked bad but the lower ones looks fine. I am doing the half turn using a shorter 3/8 ratchet because its easier to get in there. I could use a longer ratchet but these are new rodneys lowering ball joints and I don't want to mess them up.
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Report this Post06-29-2014 09:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofinderClick Here to Email fierofinderSend a Private Message to fierofinderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Another attempt and they are not gonna go any farther without a lot of force. It would be nice if they gave us a better torque figure. 26# and half turn. It could well be 100# by the time you get a half turn.
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Report this Post06-29-2014 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
For comparison's sake, the '84 - '87 upper ball joint torque specs are 35 lbft then up to an additional 1/6 turn to align the cotter pin which results in a maximum 55 lbft.

The lower ball joint on these earlier models gets torqued to 55 lbft up to a max of 106 lbft to align the cotter pin hole.
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