I am looking to avoid paying $20 a bolt(+washer) per bolt on the cradle mounts. I am switching them out for a swap soon and I am willing to bet I am gonna have to cut them out(Michigan Rust). I have a few questions:

A: Will other(normal) bolts work and what are the specifications I need?

B. Are there any tricks besides cutting the bolts? Any special way to get them out if the get stuck?

might as well warm up the cutoff wheel for the front bolts.

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1986 Fiero GT fastback SC3800 3.4 pulley, LS1 TB
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with "big boy" 5.9 motor
1983 Honda Goldwing 1100 Interstate

[This message has been edited by Grantman (edited 06-25-2014).]

They are just a standard metric bolt with a little pointy end on them. You can find ones that fit for about $3.00 at the Ace Hardware store. Larry

quote Originally posted by Grantman: might as well warm up the cutoff wheel for the front bolts.

I figured

quote Originally posted by trotterlg: They are just a standard metric bolt with a little pointy end on them. You can find ones that fit for about $3.00 at the Ace Hardware store. Larry

Any idea what size? It shouldnt be that difficult to find should it?

I need one of each, thanks for the topic!

I bought the ones at the Fiero Store. $9.95 for both front bolts.

http://www.fierostore.com/P...px?s=57519&d=320&p=1

It depends on what year your car is:

The front cradle bolts for all years are M12 X 1.75 X 100 grade 10.9;
The rear cradle bolts for the '84-'87 are M12 X 1.75 X 70 grade 10.9 but you might want to double check the length;
The rear cradle bolts for the '88 are M12 X 1.75 X 45 grade 10.9, but again, I'm not certain about the exact length.

These are critical bolts so make certain you buy the proper grade.

For the front ones any thread will do as long as they match the nuts. For the rear a little long is better if they don't bottom out, it helps when you are trying to get them started when pulling the cradle back up. Larry

Just went through this on mine.
The right one no problem. The left, yeah right. And this was in a shop with 150PSI from the compressor with a good Chicago (not Central) Pneumatic 1/2 drive impact and air hammer.

Try this. You are most likely going to need bushings anyway. Sharp knife, trim as much of the bushing away from the tube as possible. Take a large pry bar and move the frame over as much as possible to one side. With a 1/2" drive large racthet, turn bolt until you can see the seam in the tube. Take a center punch or narrow chisel and open the tube a little at the seam. The more you can open it, the better. Then apply some rust penetrant into the seam. Then pry to the other side and open the other side of the tube the same way. And let them sit overnight.
The bolts, I was able to reuse after cleaning up and applying antisieze.

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: It depends on what year your car is: The front cradle bolts for all years are M12 X 1.75 X 100 grade 10.9; The rear cradle bolts for the '84-'87 are M12 X 1.75 X 70 grade 10.9 but you might want to double check the length; The rear cradle bolts for the '88 are M12 X 1.75 X 45 grade 10.9, but again, I'm not certain about the exact length. These are critical bolts so make certain you buy the proper grade.

This is exactly what I wanted, thanks!

Cmechmann description is how I did it, except for reuse.

Bloozberry has all the tech data, you da man!

[This message has been edited by LornesGT (edited 06-25-2014).]

quote Originally posted by Threedog: I am looking to avoid paying $20 a bolt(+washer) per bolt on the cradle mounts. I am switching them out for a swap soon and I am willing to bet I am gonna have to cut them out(Michigan Rust). I have a few questions: A: Will other(normal) bolts work and what are the specifications I need? B. Are there any tricks besides cutting the bolts? Any special way to get them out if the get stuck?

B. Front OE bushing have seams... cut rubber to attack them.
See my Cave, Bushings

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

The rears once you cut the old ones out will need new captured nuts in the frame anyway.
I use 1/2" grade 8 bolts with washers all the time on the last 6 cars I've owned.
Just cut a small hole in the side of the frame to access the bolt and insert the nut/washer.\
You can weld a tang to the nut to assist in tightening without a wrench.

quote Originally posted by mcguiver3: The rears once you cut the old ones out will need new captured nuts in the frame anyway. I use 1/2" grade 8 bolts with washers all the time on the last 6 cars I've owned. Just cut a small hole in the side of the frame to access the bolt and insert the nut/washer.\ You can weld a tang to the nut to assist in tightening without a wrench.

This is how I did it:

i went the "other way" on my 88. (I don't know if this will work on other years.) I took a 1" by 2" (approximately) piece of 1/8" thick steel, drilled a hole in one end, and welded a bolt to it. Then I fished this through an existing hole in the frame until the bolt dropped down through the cradle mounting hole. Then I used a nut and washer under the frame to hold it. The welded-on piece of steel kept the bolt from turning while I tightened the nut.
In other words, my bolt goes down through the mounting holes instead of up through them. I only did this on one side, as the other side was OK.