I just got the 2 bolts out, unhooked the wires, but now its stuck in the engine bay. There isn't enough room to get it out of the wheel well. How do I get it out?
Disconnect the tie rod and move it out of the way. Then turn the alternator every which way and eventually you'll find the magic position where it'll just drop out like it was meant to be.
Disconnect the tie rod and move it out of the way. Then turn the alternator every which way and eventually you'll find the magic position where it'll just drop out like it was meant to be.
you can "rent" a tool from an auto parts store. I wouldn't use a fork, as you could damage the tie rod boot. I was able to just remove the splash shield and pull the alternator out the passenger side bottom without removing anything else (tie rod)... That was an '85 V6, auto.
you can "rent" a tool from an auto parts store. I wouldn't use a fork, as you could damage the tie rod boot. I was able to just remove the splash shield and pull the alternator out the passenger side bottom without removing anything else (tie rod)... That was an '85 V6, auto.
There is only enough clearence for if the alt was half the size it is.
jack up the car, install stand (suspension hanging), remove wheel, remove liner, twist and turn the alternator till it drops out (IIRC it is usually the backside first).
I does come out, but make note of which way so you can install the new one the same way.
jack up the car, install stand (suspension hanging), remove wheel, remove liner, twist and turn the alternator till it drops out...
From a Fiero with a 2.8... and an automatic??!!! Without removing or disconnecting anything else? (Actually, I don't see any benefit in removing the "liner", or was that just to get the splash guard out of the way?)
After having been through this myself with an '86 GT (automatic), I don't believe it.
If that's the case, how have you tried to disconnect the tie rod? I've never had a problem with just backing the nut off until it's even with the top of the threaded part of the tie rod... and then smacking it down with a hammer. If it's stubborn, bang the knuckle (around the tie rod "bolt") with the hammer a few times, and then go back to hitting the top of backed off nut.
If that's the case, how have you tried to disconnect the tie rod? I've never had a problem with just backing the nut off until it's even with the top of the threaded part of the tie rod... and then smacking it down with a hammer. If it's stubborn, bang the knuckle (around the tie rod "bolt") with the hammer a few times, and then go back to hitting the top of backed off nut.
I have never used a pickle-fork on a tie rod, and I only use it on ball joints that I'll be replacing. It destroys the grease boot, and perhaps damages the ball joint itself.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-18-2014).]
2 top bolts off, need to run to the store to get an 18mm short socket for my breaker bar. Getting the 3rd side bolt out will let the bracket swing up out of the way! ALMOST THERE
Hmmmm....I've got a Formula with an Auto and I pulled mine out without disconnecting any suspension parts. I remember it was a total PITA but it did come out with a little force. Went back in too after I rebuilt it, again without disconnecting anything. Maybe you should try harder. I think after it was down on the trans, I pushed it all the way over to the other side and pulled it out....but it was a year or two ago so can't say for sure but I'm positive I didn't undo anything other than the passengers side tire and wheel well liner. hmmm possibly there more room on an 88 than an 87??
hmmm possibly there more room on an 88 than an 87??
The '88 alternator is smaller than the previous years. Not a LOT smaller, but slightly. Makes a difference.
The 88s don't have the tie-rod like the OP's car has, but one hint on the 88s is to detach the swaybar on both sides of the car and swing the ends of the swaybar up and out of the way. You'll gain a little more room that way. If you need more room, disconnect the suspension lateral link from the knuckle and swing it down and out of the way. Plenty of room now!
hmmm possibly there more room on an 88 than an 87??
I'm also beginning to wonder whether the 88's (with an automatic) have more room back there than the '84-'87 Fieros to remove an alternator... and/or perhaps the CS130 alternators are physically smaller than the older SI units.
The only way I could remove an alternator from my '86 GT (with an automatic) was to split the alternator in two before removal. Perhaps I should've removed the tie rod instead. On both an '86 GT (with a 4-spd) and an '88 Formula (with a 5-spd), there were no issues when removing their alternators. They just dropped out the bottom.
I GOT IT IN!!! Thank you everyone for helping me! I had to eventually completely remove the bracket, cooling pipe, and one end of the tie rod. It was easy once I got that stuff out of the way!
From a Fiero with a 2.8... and an automatic??!!! Without removing or disconnecting anything else? (Actually, I don't see any benefit in removing the "liner", or was that just to get the splash guard out of the way?)
After having been through this myself with an '86 GT (automatic), I don't believe it.
With a manual tranny it's no problem.
Yes - but hell maybe I got lucky, but then it is a 88 GT.
BTW - yes, just to get the splash guard out of the way.
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 06-20-2014).]
I never had a big problem changing the alternator in my V6s. I just dropped it straight out the bottom. It did take a little turning and twisting. I never had to take anything else off or loose. I took the alt out of the bracket, leaving the bracket on the engine. If Im remembering, i just took off the belt adjusting bolt and the long pivot bolt and fed it out the bottom of the cradle.
On an 86 GT auto that I had, I had to get the tie rod out of the way. A hammer didn't pop it loose, I had to use a 5 pound sledge turned sideways. I was messing up the threads with the hammer because it was such a small surface to make contact with... or do it right and get one of these (which I have): OTC Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller
Isn't it strange that after a bombing, everyone blames the bomber, his upbringing, his environment, his culture, his mental state but … after a shooting, the problem is the gun?
[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 06-21-2014).]
I'd love someone with an '85-'87 2.8 automatic Fiero to post a picture (or better yet, a video) of them removing an SI alternator (not a swapped in smaller CS130 unit) in one piece without tipping the cradle or removing any suspension and/or drive train components... 'cause I don't believe it's possible.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-21-2014).]
I GOT IT IN!!! Thank you everyone for helping me! I had to eventually completely remove the bracket, cooling pipe, and one end of the tie rod. It was easy once I got that stuff out of the way!
That's good Hurican. Half the battle. Did you take it up and have it tested BEFORE you bought a new alt and installed? They can easily do this for free with a bench system. Let us know. Good luck.
That's good Hurican. Half the battle. Did you take it up and have it tested BEFORE you bought a new alt and installed? They can easily do this for free with a bench system. Let us know. Good luck.
Yeah they said it was dead and were only running on battery power! Luckily auto zone is only 2 miles from me!
you can "rent" a tool from an auto parts store. I wouldn't use a fork, as you could damage the tie rod boot. I was able to just remove the splash shield and pull the alternator out the passenger side bottom without removing anything else (tie rod)... That was an '85 V6, auto.
That's how I pulled mine on my 86 SE V6 Auto
There is another tool for removing the tie rod, I forget the actual name and part number or if it even works on the Fiero but it pushes the rod down from above, so no problem with damaging the boot, let me see if I can find it. Sorry in the case of the Fiero it is up from below but it still works, I have also used Patrick's hammer idea and to be honest 9 out of 10 times that works.
you can "rent" a tool from an auto parts store. I wouldn't use a fork, as you could damage the tie rod boot. I was able to just remove the splash shield and pull the alternator out the passenger side bottom without removing anything else (tie rod)... That was an '85 V6, auto.
I have done them this way on the auto Fieros and also had success. The alternator, connectors and the alternator bracket have to be removed. Coming out the wheel well ; the fit is tight, but it does come out
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I think after it was down on the trans, I pushed it all the way over to the other side and pulled it out....but it was a year or two ago so can't say for sure but I'm positive I didn't undo anything other than the passengers side tire and wheel well liner. hmmm possibly there more room on an 88 than an 87?? 
On both an '86 GT (with a 4-spd) and an '88 Formula (with a 5-spd), there were no issues when removing their alternators. They just dropped out the bottom.
