im restoring my front and have multiple question about restoring my front end and under the car parts so here are my question

1.i will sandblast and powdercoat my lower control arm and i remove my ball joint today so do i need to block the hole for the ball joint because sandblast will remove a little bit of thickness ( balljoint is pressed so ???) and for the powdercoat too (will add thickness because of paint ) or i dont block it for sandblast powdercoat and will remove a little paint if the ball joint dont want to press in the hole ???????

2. i will sandblast and powdercoat the front crossmember do i need to block the uppersleeve for the crossmember ( the sleeve for the upper control arm weld to crossmember ) for the same reason than the first question ?????

3. for the front coil spring install does the spring have an upper side and lower side like the rear coil spring ( they seem to be equal but i notice one side seem to have a bigger diameter ) just to make sure to install it right

4. Where to find the seal for the splash shield ( the seal that goes between the knuckle spindle and splash shield ) ?????

5. for the front knuckle spindle i will sandblast powdercoat it too. what i take to keep sand and powdercoat to the spindle where the bearing seat ???? duck tape ?????? and do i need to plug the hole where the tie rod ball joint hole are or sandblast and powder will not have effect on theses holes ?????

6.i remove the stainless coolant tube and i saw the support bracket on the frame not the bracket have a little rust ( a small hole where the bolt ) what guys did you do to fix it ??????? you cut a used rustfree bracket and you weld it ???? you take a metal sheet and you bind it or ????????

7. what is the color of the chassis under the car they seem satin black but other place they seem a little brighter i want to paint so parts of the chassis that have rust ( will remove it before and put a primer ) but i want the closest match possible

8. i did a search and some people are telling they have a ovaled hole in the uppersleeve on the crossmember for the upper control arm support i check mine and the hole are not oval ( perfectly round ) but i have a little play when i put my old upper control arm bolt in the crossmember sleeve does it is normal ( maybe the bolts have wear on it ) ??????


thanks all for your help and replies its so much appreciated

[This message has been edited by fierogtx (edited 06-16-2014).]

1. Yes, joints is press-in. Sand blast = ream out the hole = not good.
They make high temp tape to mask areas so powder won't go. Remove tape after oven.
google:
powder coating masking tape
powder coating tape
etc

Side note... If very easy to remove bushings/BJ then likely Arm is dead/dieing.
Daily drive use rubber in all CA.
see See my Cave, Bushings and rest of section.

2. Plug tube so powder won't go.

3. Say what? Not sure for front spring. Don't think up side to them.

4. You likely need to make one. RTV should work. Is just to keep water etc from attacking the shield on knuckle side.

5. Yes, no powder on spindle.

6. Not Sure. If rust isn't bad, Try a simple sheet metal screw/bolt to attach bracket to frame.

7. GM didn't use normal paint. Was anti rust coating. POR15 is what many have used. Read directions... Many only want worse rust removed because the "paint" will convert rust left over. So Don't sand blast if true.

8. Say What?

pictures for 3 and 8

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

quote Originally posted by theogre: 1. Yes, joints is press-in. Sand blast = ream out the hole = not good. They make high temp tape to mask areas so powder won't go. Remove tape after oven. google: powder coating masking tape powder coating tape etc Side note... If very easy to remove bushings/BJ then likely Arm is dead/dieing. Daily drive use rubber in all CA. see See my Cave, Bushings and rest of section. 2. Plug tube so powder won't go. 3. Say what? Not sure for front spring. Don't think up side to them. 4. You likely need to make one. RTV should work. Is just to keep water etc from attacking the shield on knuckle side. 5. Yes, no powder on spindle. 6. Not Sure. If rust isn't bad, Try a simple sheet metal screw/bolt to attach bracket to frame. 7. GM didn't use normal paint. Was anti rust coating. POR15 is what many have used. Read directions... Many only want worse rust removed because the "paint" will convert rust left over. So Don't sand blast if true. 8. Say What? pictures for 3 and 8

thanks and for the spindle hole for ball joint and tie rod attaching hole do i need to block it to not have sand and powder or it will not have effect ??????? and for the spindle why under the splash shield they have small circular marks on the knuckle spindle ???? do i need to tape it too or just the spindle ???? thanks for all your help