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7730 DIS Swap Issues by onesexyfiero
Started on: 06-14-2014 04:53 PM
Replies: 8 (549 views)
Last post by: onesexyfiero on 06-17-2014 08:02 PM
onesexyfiero
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Report this Post06-14-2014 04:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for onesexyfieroSend a Private Message to onesexyfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fighting my way through a 7730/dis swap on my 3.4. Using a harness I bought from a forum member who had it working in his car with no issues. I've run into a few issues:

-The temperature gauge doesn't work. I've tried 2 known good sensors. The gauge comes up to 100 with key on, but never goes any higher. If I swap the leads (typical broken connector, so leads are loose) the gauge pegs, so they're clearly on the right way.

-I'm getting a code 32. I know this is EGR. PO didn't run an EGR, I thought it was deleted in the chip. I've heard its bad to run without an egr, with it still programmed in. I'd prefer to run an EGR anyways. I have a digital egr and adapter. Can I just wire it in, since it seems the ECM is still looking for it?

-Getting a code 15, coolant temp sensor. I also had a coolant warning light for a while, though that hasn't come on again.

-Code 33, MAP. MAP worked fine before. Don't see any vacuum leaks.

-Idles well for the most part, smooth, but occasionally goes very low and sometimes even stalls.

Any help would be greatly appreciate. I'm useless at this stuff.

[This message has been edited by onesexyfiero (edited 06-14-2014).]

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chetw77cruiser
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Report this Post06-14-2014 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chetw77cruiserSend a Private Message to chetw77cruiserEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am assuming that this is using the $88 code. So here we go.

I cannot comment on the EGR fault but could be related to the other errors.

Code 15 - Coolant sensor low: either the sensor is open circuit or the wiring is open (broke) to/from the sensor.

Code 33 - Map sensor high: Map sensor is sending voltage to the ecu that is determined to be too high. Usually either a bad sensor or a bad 5-volt return(ground) circuit.

Chances are that the 5v return circuit is open considering that the coolant and MAP sensor are most likely sharing the same circuit. This could be somewhere in the wiring or a damaged ecu, but I would most likely look at the wiring. A DVOM (multi-meter) is your best friend in these situations. Another tool that could be usefull is a scan tool or aldl to PC adapter with appropriate software.

[This message has been edited by chetw77cruiser (edited 06-14-2014).]

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onesexyfiero
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Report this Post06-14-2014 08:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for onesexyfieroSend a Private Message to onesexyfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
EGR fault seems logical, since there's no EGR present right now. Comes on warmed up while coasting, when you would expect the EGR to be working. I just wanted to know if there was any reason I couldn't just wire in a digital EGR, since it seems the ECM is looking for it anyways.

I have both a multi meter and winaldl.

So there should be a ground I can check with a multimeter coming to one of the pins at the MAP sensor connector, yes? What else should I check? Would this effect my temp. gauge?
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onesexyfiero
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Report this Post06-15-2014 11:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for onesexyfieroSend a Private Message to onesexyfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Redid the grounds and that seems to have resolved everything but the temp gauge. I'm sure EGR will come on again eventually, but I can fix that.

Anybody have any ideas on the gauge?
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fierofool
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Report this Post06-15-2014 12:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Having done the test on the gauge and found the circuit to be good, the problem is probably the sending unit. Replace it. Do not wrap the threads with teflon. Voltage is applied at the gauge. The threaded base is your ground.
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zzzhuh
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Report this Post06-15-2014 12:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zzzhuhSend a Private Message to zzzhuhEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've heard a lot about the 7730 but don't understand what the point of it is. What are the pro's/con's of this swap?
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post06-15-2014 01:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Turn the key on but leave the engine off. Ground one of the wires. Then try the other. One should light the temp light. The other should make the temp gauge (or just pivot in your case) move. Then just make sure the wires are on the correct pins so the two devices work correctly.
The plastic shell on the temperature gauge sender connector tends to get brittle and fall apart. New plastic shells can be obtained from Rodney Dickman for $7.50 delivered to your mailbox. Damn cheap if you ask me.

http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=21&products_id=174



Neither wire should cause the temp gauge to peg when connecting it to the temp sender. If it does your temp sender is bad. Does your temp sender look like this?

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chetw77cruiser
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Report this Post06-15-2014 06:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chetw77cruiserSend a Private Message to chetw77cruiserEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by zzzhuh:

I've heard a lot about the 7730 but don't understand what the point of it is. What are the pro's/con's of this swap?


If you call, I can tell you all about it.

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onesexyfiero
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Report this Post06-17-2014 08:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for onesexyfieroSend a Private Message to onesexyfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks guys. I'll be away from the car for a few weeks, but when I get a chance, I think the info here can get me there.
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