I have an 85 2.5 automatic. Got in the car to head home from church this morning, cranked it, and about halfway to running, it just gave up. Everything turns on when the key is on, but the starter won't turn over. Got under the car and found that the fusible link to the starter had failed, so we swapped that out, but it still won't start. Went to drop the starter, and it looks like the bracket is held in place between the A/C compressor and the engine block. Having a really difficult time getting anywhere with this. Am I missing something? Or is the starter really that difficult to get to? My Haynes manual says nothing about the A/C compressor in the removal instructions. Any tips would be appreciated.
I have an 85 2.5 5 speed and have changed the starter a couple of times. The hardest thing was getting the starter past the catalytic converter after the bolts were out. I am not sure if the auto is any different but I wouldn't think so, You might want to loosen the ac compressor bracket bolt that's used to tighten the belt and slide the compressor on the bracket for more clearance,
I have an 85 2.5 5 speed and have changed the starter a couple of times. The hardest thing was getting the starter past the catalytic converter after the bolts were out. I am not sure if the auto is any different but I wouldn't think so, You might want to loosen the ac compressor bracket bolt that's used to tighten the belt and slide the compressor on the bracket for more clearance,
I'm think that maybe what I have going on is aftermarket, because based on what you said, Gall757's link, and my manual, the bracket should be held on by a bolt, but mine isn't. The A/C compressor and the starter bracket are both held onto a threaded post with a nut. That means no sliding the starter bracket out from under the A/C compressor once the nut comes off, unfortunately.
My A/C doesn't work, and the belt bypasses the compressor, so could I just remove the A/C compressor possibly?
now that I think about it I did have to bend the bracket that attaches to the end of the starter away from the starter to get the stud on the starter to clear the bracket
now that I think about it I did have to bend the bracket that attaches to the end of the starter away from the starter to get the stud on the starter to clear the bracket
Okay, I'll attempt to bend the bracket to get it out of there.
good luck, you should be able to. If you replace the starter consider one of the smaller and lighter gear reduction starters as used on the 97 Gran Prix, they bolt right up and are smaller and easier to install.
Got the old starter off and tested it. It was dead, so I went a bought a new starter and installed it. And it still won't even turn over. I forgot to test the new starter before I installed it, so it's possible that I got a bad part.
Should I start looking into other possibilities? If so, where do I start?
Check to make sure you have 12V at the starter at the battery cable connection. If you do then check to make sure you have 12V at the small wire (i think it's purple) at the solenoid when the key is in the start position. Of course, be careful if you are doing this under the car. I have one of those remote starter switches, one lead clips to the battery cable on the starter and the other connects to the terminal on the solenoid. You can press the button on the switch and crank the engine remotely (be sure the car is not in gear. If that works then you have wiring issues. Also, did you connect the small wire to the correct terminal on the starter? there are two terminals, R and S, I believe. You need to connect to the S terminal.
[This message has been edited by TONY_C (edited 06-09-2014).]
If you don't have the remote start switch mentioned in the last message, you can jumper from the solenoid post (with the small wire) to the post with the big wire, with a screwdriver. The starter should run when you do that. Also, sparks will fly -- don't let that scare you. Just don't jumper the wrong post on the solenoid (the grounded one).
It's home. Managed to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver while the ignition was on to get it running so it could get here, since it will be significantly easier to fix it at home. It still doesn't start. My father spliced a new section of wire into the wire running out of the solenoid in place of the fusible link that went out. I think that's the trouble point right now. Is there something that commonly goes wrong that would kill the fusible link and keep the ignition switch from turning the starter?
Re-did the new segment where the fusible link used to be, and got nothing. Found a blown power accessory fuse (20 amp) and replaced it, but that did nothing. My uncle suggested running a button (sort of like TONY_C's remote starter switch) into the dash and leaving it at that for now. I'm not sure what I think of that solution, though. But I might take it if it gets the car running, because I need it in driveable condition sooner rather than later.
What haven't you checked in the circuit? Gear selector switch maybe? Did you try the starter in Neutral vs Park?
I tried shifting it into neutral, and still got nothing.
Based on what I'm seeing, the wire coming out of the solenoid should be going to the ECM, though. Is that correct? What's with the wire running to the Gear Selector Switch? There is only one wire leaving my solenoid.
[This message has been edited by PurpleGryphon (edited 06-10-2014).]
Try jumping the two wires from the neutral safety switch, I think they are close to where the shift cable enters the transmission. after you jump those wires see if it will turn over with the key
