thought I'd kill 2 birds with 1 stone. 1st Ive got a shifting issue. At times it is hard to get into anygear, and reverse sometimes needs to be slipped into 1st before attempting reverse or it will grind. The other gears are just plain hard to get into gear. While moving it is much easier..any idea what the issue is/could be? Next I just replaced the alternator in the car, seems to charge ok but on 1st start up the volt meter swings to the left for about 10/20 seconds then swings the other way. Not sure where to start on this one.
Worn out clutches will either slip or be harder to get into gear. (or both). If you can pump the pedal quickly and the situation improves, there is air in your hydraulics.
Your alternator has a regulator in it that is taking it's time taking over from the battery. What is the VOLTS light doing during that time?
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 06-02-2014).]
Strange as it may seem, that light is part of the sensing circuit that tells the alternator to charge the battery. If you fix that bulb, I think the voltage issues will be fixed. Key on - engine off, there is a red indicator light where it says VOLTS.
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 06-02-2014).]
immediately order Rodney Dickman clutch slave dual piston!! 90% of Fiero cutch problems are related to the clutch slave piston because it is a single seal piston ,, you can go to V8 archie site & follow the directions to bleed the clutch ,but the dickman dual seal piston is cheap & solved so many Fiero clutch problems ,,plus the dual seal piston is easy to bleed check your slave bore to make sure it is not pitted,, the dual seal piston will overcome many slave bore flaws !! you can use a bundled cloth surrounded with light wet sand paper to clean the bore of some flaws,
every fiero should have the dual seal piston, or one of Rodneys new clutch slave units ..'cheap 'to save your transmission..
make sure the small negative cable comming from the battery has a excellent connection clean panel ,clean fitting , install thicker bolt with clean bright surface ,install extra engine to frame nagative cable
Before you go into such depth on your slave cylinder have you simply changed the trans fluid?
My shifter sometimes slipped into 1st instead of reverse and was hard to get into 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. I changed the fluid (today) and It's a noticeable difference, especially with syncromesh. My reverse grinds as well but just go from second and throw it into reverse.
With your meter, your gauge could just be faulty? Does it do this when you have the key in the ignition without the car running?
------------------ The wetter the better
[This message has been edited by zzzhuh (edited 06-03-2014).]
Before you go into such depth on your slave cylinder have you simply changed the trans fluid?
My shifter sometimes slipped into 1st instead of reverse and was hard to get into 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. I changed the fluid (today) and It's a noticeable difference, especially with syncromesh. My reverse grinds as well but just go from second and throw it into reverse.
With your meter, your gauge could just be faulty? Does it do this when you have the key in the ignition without the car running?
have not changed the trans oil yet will do that as it most likely needs to be done anyway car has 193K on it. As far as the light this seems to be intermiting.. light was on last night when I started the car but the day before it took like 10seconds to come on then the car was chargeing...is there issues with that light shorting out somewhere???
The light is supposed to be off when the alternator is working. It should shine when the battery is providing power and the engine is off. It sounds like there is a loose connection somewhere in that circuit....not a short.
