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Busted exhaust manifold bolts.. by MLanders86
Started on: 05-24-2014 12:12 AM
Replies: 5 (327 views)
Last post by: katatak on 05-24-2014 11:37 AM
MLanders86
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Report this Post05-24-2014 12:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MLanders86Click Here to Email MLanders86Send a Private Message to MLanders86Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So, I bought a 86 2.8l SE.. 90k on it, good condition BUT apparently the original owners decided not to keep up regular maintenance on the vehicles engine other than oil changes and spark plug wires.. Along with many other issues I've ran into such as sheering off the threading of the original spark plugs in the engine block and having to use an easy out, a leaking exhaust manifold gasket and seized up/broken off manifold bolts are one of my biggest concerns. I've read up on a couple forums about trying to use a left handed drill bit to drill out the broken exhaust manifold bolt, (which I've tried and didn't work). I've also tried regular drill bits in hopes of eventually using an easy out, (didn't work). I've even tried taking a long piece of steel, putting it flush against where the bolt resides in the engine and giving a couple good whacks, then doing the same to the top of the bolt in hopes of knocking it even the slightest bit loose, (also didn't work..). I've dowsed the bolts with P.B. Blaster for a couple days before each of these attempts and still nothing.. Any suggestions???
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msrservices
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Report this Post05-24-2014 12:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for msrservicesClick Here to visit msrservices's HomePageSend a Private Message to msrservicesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I broke a bolt pulling my manifolds off. I had tried a few things, but what worked for me was using a socket just a bit smaller than the stud. I tapped it on, and was able to crank it out. Of course I can't get the stud out of the socket now, but I was happy to get the stud out.
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MLanders86
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Report this Post05-24-2014 12:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MLanders86Click Here to Email MLanders86Send a Private Message to MLanders86Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Unfortunately, the bolt is broken off flush inside the engine block. Although, that is some good advice to keep in mind if I ever do find myself in that situation.
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post05-24-2014 02:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanClick Here to Email uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Penetrant will not flow up,, you have to jack the Fiero high enough ,so that the penetrant will actually flow into the threads
spray some penetrant into a bottle add 25% automatic transmission fluid to your Penetrant
automatic tranmission fluid is highly refined.dribble your mad scientist mixture into bolts
acetone & automatic tranny fluid mixed with penetrant is a miracle worker for rusted threads
the bolts studs are at a down angle get the angle as high as you can
the bolt under the A/C compressor requires the A/Ccompressor to be removed,,hopefully this is not one that is broken

the Fiero V6 has a serious blockage in the exhaust manifold ,,porting the exhaust manifolds makes the car run better it is a pain to do but worth it ..use search feature to find porting info .extract broken bolts info,& Rodney 2 seal piston info
every Fiero alive needs a double seal clutch slave piston,,Rodney Dickman has them,cheap..
ace hardware has the bolts for the exhaust manifold

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 05-24-2014).]

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post05-24-2014 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
During the recall period GM supplied special drilling jigs that allow a drill to center on the broken stud and make a hole. Then you just use the stud remover that was in the kit. I have often seen these drilling jig sets selling on eBay and they work very well. If you cannot find a jig to buy or loan you might try one of the reverse drill in easy out stud removers that are available. If all else fails you may have to pull the head.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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katatak
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Report this Post05-24-2014 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for katatakSend a Private Message to katatakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I recently had the same issue - 2 exhaust bolts broken on the firewall side and 2 on the trunk side. I bought Rodney Dickman's drill jig and it worked perfectly. I skipped the step where he suggests you drill with the smaller bit and try the easy out. I've broke plenty of easy outs off in the bolt and then you really have a problem. I did drill completely through each bolt with the small bit to aid as a pilot hole for the larger bit. It was fairly easy to use a gasket pick to clean out the threads then I ran a tap in each. One other thing - I pulled the motor to get the the firewall side. I just did not see any way to get the 2 on that side - I suppose I could have tilted the cradle and attempted it that way. For me, pulling the motor was the best way as I needed to replace all the mounts, water pump, valve cover gaskets, front seal, injector service, TCC solenoid, etc.

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