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Issue wt 2013 Dart Ralley 2.0 by RCR
Started on: 12-15-2018 01:53 PM
Replies: 7 (122 views)
Last post by: RCR on 04-06-2019 01:09 PM
RCR
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Report this Post12-15-2018 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey guys,
I typed up a pretty lengthy question that seems to be in the nether space, so here's my dilemma.

My son has a 2013 Ralley 2.0.

About 6 weeks ago it threw a cam senor DTC and started running rough. I replaced both sensors (cleared the code), yet it continued to run rough to the point of stalling.

2 weeks ago, I changed the oil and topped it off. M son filled it with gas and went a couple miles down the road when it stalled again, turning left into a lot.

He managed to restart it to get into the lot, but it stalled and wouldn't restart. When I got there, something smelled of burnt motor windings, so we just towed it home.

I noticed it turned over slowly, so replaced the starter. The old one smelt burnt. With the new starter, it still turned over slowly and wouldn't fire.

Since then, I've had the battery checked, replaced, verified spark, and seen fuel flow.

Now, yesterday, I was trying to pull interactive data with the scanner when I found that as I kept cranking, the motor would eventually spin faster until it almost started. I tried one more time and found that the motor was now bound up and would not turn over (possibly how old starter got roached).

After an hour or so, I went and tried again. This time is started, but there was quite a racket coming from the top of the motor.

What could he have possibly done to this thing. I'm about to try to take the cam cover off and take a look.

(desperate) Bob

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Raydar
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Report this Post12-21-2018 09:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Just a quick search on the web leads to a litany of complaints about excessive oil consumption and engine failures.
The ones that I found seemed to concern the 2.4 "tiger shark" engine. I'm not sure if yours is similar or not.

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RCR
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Report this Post12-22-2018 08:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey Raydar, thanx for looking and chiming in.

I pretty much saw the same thing. It's the 2.0 version of that 'tigershark", POS...

I have a boro-scope now, so I'm going to take a look at the internals.

Bob

I should add that I did take the cover off. The valve train looks good.

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 12-22-2018).]

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IMSA GT
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Report this Post12-22-2018 09:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTClick Here to Email IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I don't know about your motor but they recalled all of the 2013 1.4 liter motors for stalling issues. After a cold start, you could drive a few miles before it would stall. The fix for that motor was an ECM re-tune at no cost. Is there any pending recalls on your model?

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 12-22-2018).]

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RCR
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Report this Post12-23-2018 05:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:

I don't know about your motor but they recalled all of the 2013 1.4 liter motors for stalling issues. After a cold start, you could drive a few miles before it would stall. The fix for that motor was an ECM re-tune at no cost. Is there any pending recalls on your model?



No, I don't think so. There is a decal under the hood that seems to imply the ECU was recal'd by a dealer.

Bob

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RCR
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Report this Post02-27-2019 07:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Should have updated this for those veiwing and having ideas to help.

Valve train was in excellent shape. Timing spot on. I did get it running, but it ran like sh!#$%. So, after a cleansing and oil change, I pulled the pan off of it.

I should have taken pictures. The pan was full of thick sludge with a highly magnetic content. Never really saw oil move under a magnet like that before.

This motor has an "oil pump" assembly mounted under the crank, so I didn't have good access to the rotating assembly, but fear is it spun a bearing or two.

To coin a phrase " She's dead, Jim."

A local yard has a 34K mile replacement for 500$, out the door. That's the next step, once Mother Nature gives me a break.

Thanx for viewing and help.

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 02-27-2019).]

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Jake_Dragon
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Report this Post02-27-2019 02:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_DragonSend a Private Message to Jake_DragonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Well that sucks but at least you are not chasing the issue anymore.
Good luck with the replacement.

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RCR
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Report this Post04-06-2019 01:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Just an update...

Two weeks ago I replaced the motor. 34K mile motor for $530 incl tax and core. It took a day to get the old motor out and the new one in. Took one day to connect everything back up. I had some problems getting it started, turned out to be old gas in the fuel rail. The car has been running pretty well now for two weeks. Fingers crossed...

Bob

PS new problem.. We tried getting the front hub off. I cannot break the nut loose on the axle. I used heat, cold, penetrating oil, and a 6ft tube on my 1/2" breaker bar. Would not budge. Any thoughts on braking it loose?

Bob

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